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Corey Price 
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 Topic: Starting again- Corey's new tank blog
Posted: May 22 2008 at 1:41am |
Since I'm kinda bored, I thought I would post some pics about my new tank. Although this tank will be empty until late fall, I'm going to start a thread so that I can maintain interest.
The tank arrived mid-January, custom ordered by Mark Peterson from Lee-mar. It measures 72" long by 30" wide by 24" deep, and is made with float glass, ground edges, and black silicone. Notice that there is no center brace- by design. I love the euro-braced, no center brace design. I spent many hours pouring over designs I liked and then getting prices through Mark for the different tank schemes. I would have preferred an external overflow with eurobracing, but Lee-mar refused to notch the back glass for this. AGE out of Texas wanted four times as much money to build the tank I wanted with external overflows.
Here is a picture of a bunch of us trying to get it through the downstairs window. Moving a 400 lb tank through a window at an angle wasn't easy, but no one was hurt.
Another picture of the crew who so graciously helped.
The tank arrived without overflows. Shane Silcox laser-cut these acrylic pieces for my new overflows.
I will be using a closed loop with a three-way ball valve. This is a Plast-o-Matic 1-1/2" three-way ball valve, with actuator.
The closed loop will be run by a Velocity T4.
The T4 will power two penductors on each side of the tank.
Edited by Corey Price - May 26 2008 at 8:45am
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Mike Savage
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Posted: May 22 2008 at 7:07am |
Very nice. I'm glad you started this thread. I can't believe 4 of you brought in this 400 pound tank through a window!
Mike
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Corey Price
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Posted: May 22 2008 at 7:30am |
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Mike, there were six of us, counting my brother and neighbor (not seen in the pic)
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Jeff Morrill
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Posted: May 22 2008 at 9:04am |
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Hey Corey, P.M. me the price of that pretty little thing!!! Cant wait to see it up and running!!
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WHAT KINDA GUM????... Give em 2 sticks.
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Corey Price
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Posted: May 22 2008 at 1:37pm |
The tank is 225 gallons and will be an in-wall design. I might leave 8 to 10" of the side viewable, kinda like a glass box that protrudes from the wall. I have three holes on each side of the tank that were drilled by Lee-mar, and two holes in the back glass up high for the removable overflow boxes. More on the overflow boxes to come.
Here's a current list of equipment that I have currently for use on this new tank setup:
1. Sequence Snapper return pump (quiet, less than 110 watts, efficient). I was considering purchasing a Red Dragon pump, but the cost could not be justified when I considered the initial cost and three years of the difference in electricity used between a Snapper and the Red Dragon. Someone needs to tell Mr. Klaus to lower his astronomical prices.
2. Multiple bulkheads for the closed loop and overflow box. I was able to find 3/4" bulkheads with threaded tank side, slip outside- what a chore. The threaded tank side works well with my penductor and gyre flow ideas- more on this to come.
3. Two 1-1/4" PVC Sch. 40 wyes. True PVC wyes are hard to find. Thanks to Ryan at AD, I was able to get these no problem for a reasonable price (shameless plug for AD, this does not represent the club presidency in any way). Also, a drawer-full of PVC parts, bushings, flexible PVC, etc. Hope I can re-coup my expenses when I changed my last tank plumbing five times.
4. Aquamedic 250w DE metal halide pendants and brand new Phoenix bulbs. Here's where I might ruffle some feathers- I will probably sell this setup to finance an all-T5 HO/VHO retrofit setup, possibly eight 60" 80w bulbs or sixteen 36" bulbs and Sunlight Supply Tek II reflectors. I may hold out for the rumored new TEK light coming soon, but I like the retro kit bulb watertight end sockets more than the present TEK light sockets. Again, more to come.
5. Four-bulb PFO 4' VHO with two actinic bulbs. I will definitely sell this to finance the T5 setup. I can't really put this to good use since the ballasts will not drive 6' T12 VHO lights.
6. 40 gallon breeder tank. I will be using this for a refugium, plumbed into the system instead of having a dedicated portion of the sump as part of the refugium.
7. 20 gallon long tank. The 20 long will be a coral and critter quarrantine. I am not interested in having a tank with the possibility of red bugs, AEFW, sea spiders, asperigopsis algae, etc. being introduced by my own negligence.
8. DIY Calcium Reactor. I may build a new one and sell this one. They work great- see my posts in the DIY forum. Now if I can just get Shane Silcox to cut some flanges...
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SSpargur
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Posted: May 22 2008 at 1:39pm |
That's going to be an awesome set up. I bet that was a heck of a time getting it in.
May I ask how much the tank set you back?
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Sean Spargur
West Valley, UT
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Corey Price
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Posted: May 22 2008 at 1:41pm |
Here's a picture of the joints for the Lee-mar tank. I think they do great work.
I realize that these joints might not be important for an in-wall tank, but I wanted some custom features, holes, etc. and this was the cheapest tank for what I wanted.
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Corey Price
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Posted: May 22 2008 at 1:49pm |
Sean, Tyler, and Jeff,
I PM'ed you. If anyone else wants to know the price of this tank, PM Mark Peterson. He can get you this tank or whatever tank you wish. I thought the design process I went through with Mark and Lee-mar to be fun and a chore at the same time, but Mark was always helpful and creative.
The hard part of this thread is that we may move. If we do, then the tank goes back out the window and on to the next house, possibly somewhere in Farmington, Centerville, Kaysville, or Fruit Heights. Who knows. This is why I don't intend on setting it up until this fall.
Edited by Corey Price - May 22 2008 at 1:58pm
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Corey Price
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Posted: May 22 2008 at 7:21pm |
Kim,
You asked why I wanted a 1-1/2" ball valve for the penductor setup if there's only "600" gph through the penductors. I will be moving around 16 gpm, or 960 gph through two 0.375" orifice penductors. Typical three-way ball valves are restrictive and not really like a typical ball valve. At this flow, the Cv factor for the ball valve is not a significant reduction in flow. If I were to go smaller, then the restrictive nature of the three-way ball valve starts to have an effect. Since I bought the valve from a friend with a used actuator, I was able to get the same deal on a 1-1/2" and a 1" valve, so I chose the larger valve with less restriction.
You asked how I was going to do a gyre effect with penductors- I'll explain my ideas in upcoming posts. I spent hours talking to fellow reef enthusiasts about this.
Edited by Corey Price - May 22 2008 at 7:24pm
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Corey Price
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 8:47am |
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So I changed the name of this thread to a blog. It seems to have sparked very little interest, but it's still fun for me. The board seems to be full of all kinds of information, threads, drama, etc. I've heard many seasoned aquarium veterans say that it's all been done before. Well, I still think it's fun to talk about. Maybe a few pics can spark some interest.
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Mike Savage
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 9:00am |
I bet there are quite a few lurkers just not a lot of comments yet.
Mike
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Corey Price
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 9:23am |
So here's the gyre effect idea:
A gyre is defined as a vortex in the ocean, but in the SW world, it's basically the effect of using a small amount of pump power to get the water going in a circle, much like what happens when you put a high flow garden hose in a bucket at an angle and close to the side. The water in the bucket starts swirling faster and faster until you have a mini vortex.
I thought that a picture might be better for communicating this for my tank. Basically this is showing one side drilled- in reality, both sides are drilled the exact same way. The center hole is the pump inlet, and the two upper holes will have the penductors, with four total. The inlet will be connected to the pump, and I figure that with two 1-1/2" inlets, I shouldn't have to worry about getting one clogged since there will only be about 500 gph being sucked through each of them.
Imagine having shelf-style rock supported by rock doweled together with acrylic rods- kinda like a table. The tables would vary in height, with some channels between them and there may be several heights. The shelves would allow the current to gain momentum horizontally through them. The opposing penductor outlets are up high in an attempt to do the same thing as the bucket analogy. The three-way ball valve allows the system to switch directions every five to ten minutes, after a gyre has formed in one direction.
Edited by Corey Price - May 26 2008 at 5:47pm
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cl2ysta1
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 9:31am |
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are you doing bare bottom in this tank?>
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I <3 Boxers
Achilles tang lover
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fj40fax
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 4:34pm |
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Lurking.
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Fax 318-3632
90g 2x250W 14kK MH
Sump, Fuge, G3, UV, O3, ACIII
Pleasant Grove, UT Across State Street from the Purple Turtle
Adjustments and Massages for Frags!
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Corey Price
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 5:55pm |
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I may or may not do a bare-bottom. In any case, I'll continue to have a sand bed somewhere in the system. I want to see how the closed loop gyre works before and after sand.
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cl2ysta1
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 6:12pm |
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yeah i was going to say you are going to have a hard time keeping sand down. I've seen people do the starboard and basically glue sand to it. My bb tank is running awesome with a remote DSB and fuge. I havent seen nitrates yet. I however do siphon deutritis once every other week.
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I <3 Boxers
Achilles tang lover
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Corey Price
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 6:57pm |
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I am considering a remote deep sand bed, but I'm not sure where or how big. I'm not sure that I want to go with the starboard look yet.
I hope that I have enough flow that detritus won't settle at all.
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fj40fax
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 8:26pm |
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I have a glued down sand bed and I have detritus everywhere but directly underneath the 2 Koralia 3's pointed directly at the bottom. I agree vacuuming it up every once in awhile really helps. I just start a siphon and run it down to the sump with a filter sock on it, works great! I spent a few hours on the tank the other day and sucked out about 2 lbs (dry weight) of crap off the bottom (most of it was a calcareous algae).
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Fax 318-3632
90g 2x250W 14kK MH
Sump, Fuge, G3, UV, O3, ACIII
Pleasant Grove, UT Across State Street from the Purple Turtle
Adjustments and Massages for Frags!
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Mike Savage
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 8:37pm |
That is a lot of detritus!
Mike
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big fish
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 8:40pm |
hey corey I got my eye on a leemar as well can you pm a price
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never under any circumstance take a sleeping pill and a laxative at the same time
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