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Adam Haycock
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Topic: Overflow plans - Anything wrong? Posted: January 10 2004 at 3:48pm |
Here are some plans for an overflow. I have drawn them to scale the best that I could.
The green pipe is the Durso standpipe. The yellow is the 3/4" return pipe from a mag 12. It enters the tank at two spots at about 1" depth. I want to try and keep the overflow water level at about 2" below the tank level.
I chose to make the pipe 1.5" and the linear distance 18" because this is about what was recommended by the calculator on RC. Im assuming it's correct.
Any suggestions on how to improve this design would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Adam
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Marcus
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Posted: January 10 2004 at 5:50pm |
This goes out to everyone that has Durso Pipestands:
Do you get crap build up at the bottom over your overflow? Since it only takes water form the top, I wonder if a lot of "stuff" settles to the bottom.
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Ryan Willden
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Posted: January 10 2004 at 9:28pm |
Marcus wrote:
This goes out to everyone that has Durso Pipestands:
Do you get crap build up at the bottom over your overflow? Since it only takes water form the top, I wonder if a lot of "stuff" settles to the bottom. | Yup! I get it too.
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jfinch
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Posted: January 10 2004 at 10:12pm |
Here's a picture of mine:
Not too bad, I'd say. There's just a little coralline rubble in the corner.
But, there have been times where the overflow had lots of hair algae. The inlet to the durso can be located anywhere from a couple inches below the overflow water level down to right at the bottom. I've never had detrius settle in the overflow, but I might circulate more then others. If you have detrius settling in the overflow, just lower the inlet of the durso down closer to the bottom.
Edited by jfinch
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Adam Haycock
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Posted: January 10 2004 at 10:42pm |
hijackers
Well I guess it's ok since it keeps the thread going...
Now, does anyone have suggestions??
How should I make a siphon break in the return lines? And would I even need one if the returns entered near the water surface?
thanks
Edited by BananaTropics
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Marcus
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Posted: January 10 2004 at 10:47pm |
Banana - get used to it.
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Adam Blundell
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Posted: January 11 2004 at 7:41am |
Marcus wrote:
Banana - get used to it. |
So true!
Adam
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 11 2004 at 9:40am |
That is a nice drawing. That looks exactly like the ones that are currently manufactured and then modified by us hobbyists.
Edited by Mark Peterson
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Adam Haycock
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Posted: January 11 2004 at 12:35pm |
Thanks Mark....so you think it will work??
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Danny Lueck
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Posted: January 11 2004 at 12:50pm |
I have one and it works great....
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 11 2004 at 3:42pm |
As long as at least one jet of water is close to the surface, you will get two benefits. Surface agitation and syphon break during power outage.
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Adam Haycock
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Posted: January 11 2004 at 5:15pm |
excellent idea! Thanks Mark!
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rstruhs
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Posted: January 11 2004 at 10:42pm |
I am confused. Since water tends to seek its own level, how do you get the overflow to be 2" lower? I want to do that with mine, but do not know how, yet.
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Rodney, Sandra, Jeffery, and Laura Struhs South Jordan, Utah 98th South & 40th West. (801) 282-2744 75 gallon reef 55 gallon reef 55 gallon FOWLR 20 gallon FOWLR
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Adam Haycock
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Posted: January 12 2004 at 12:48am |
The flow from the pump will equal the flow over the overflow which should equal the flow down the standpipe (if these three aren't equal, then you'll have a flood somewhere or a pump running dry). So the level can be adjusted by the hight of the drain. I picked 2" since it allows for sufficient water agitation without making a lot of noise. Hope that made sense.
Adam
Edited by BananaTropics
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 12 2004 at 11:59pm |
BananaTropics seems to have the idea right, but the only difference that it makes is the sound and that's all. My personal objection with this kind if design is that it's so much wasted space! For example, if you are working with a 180 gal tank, so what, but if the tank is only 30 gallons it doesn't make sense to have all that water space taken away from the main tank. The answer is to chop it off! Make a bottom a few inches below the top of the drain and have the water exit out the backside! As I said it's just my personal disdain of wasted space that creates my objection. It still works fine the way BT drew it.
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Adam Haycock
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Posted: January 15 2004 at 1:22pm |
The good thing about building your own tank is that you can do whatever you want. I was originally planning on a 24"x24"x24", but realized I could make a 30"x30"x24" for about the same price (since they can both be made from a 4'x8' sheet of acrylic). Mark, Im not sure if im understanding you correctly, but are saying that the water level in the overflow chamber only effects sound? If this is so, wouldn't it be better to have the overflow water level as close to the tanks water level as possible? Mark, I also think your idea about exiting on the back is excellent. Im having a hard time seeing why this way isn't done more often. Seems to me like its the way to go if you don't mind exposed pipes behind your tank. The only potential problem I would see would be a decrease in the drain rate. Any others that I am not aware of? Adam
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jfinch
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Posted: January 15 2004 at 2:44pm |
IMO, you want the level in the overflow box to be a little below the level in the tank to break up any protein film that might form in the box.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 16 2004 at 5:51pm |
BananaTropics wrote:
The only potential problem I would see would be a decrease in the drain rate. Any others that I am not aware of? | The elbows could cause some drainage slowing but that's where this forum comes in. Ask people if they've had any problems with water going out the backside. My personal experience is to make the drains at least 1 1/4 inch diameter.
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