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pmpt 
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 Topic: Making a stand
Posted: April 14 2007 at 6:10pm |
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I'm in the progress of making a stand for my 29 gallon tank. Its all built, all that needs to be done is sand and paint it. But before that happens I wanted to fill in the nail holes with something. I bought some putty stuff at the home depot, but the stuff isn't drying. Its still soft, and its been about 2-3 days.
Any idea on what to use? I really don't want a stand with all these dents and nail holes in it. Thanks for the input!
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Dion Richins
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Posted: April 14 2007 at 8:58pm |
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Are you painting it or staining it. I'm sure you used putty for filling in holes of prefinished wood. That will need to be dug out and refilled. If your going to paint it you can use either Spackle or bondo.
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pmpt
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Posted: April 14 2007 at 9:11pm |
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I'm going to be painting it black. So I can just use bondo or spackle? Can I get that from the home depot?
Also, I think it is the putty for prefinished wood. I didn't think there would be a difference. How is the best way to get that stuff off the stand?
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GARFVolunteer
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Posted: April 14 2007 at 9:47pm |
If the current putty is soft you should be able to use a tooth pick to dig it out. Then fill the holes with Spackle, let it dry, sand it, and paint.
When I stain, I use a soft putty(putty pencil) to fill the nail holes after it is stained and finished. Once you wipe it off with lacquer thinner the holes are barely visible.
Thanks,
Scott
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Dion Richins
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Posted: April 14 2007 at 10:38pm |
If I'm spraying black lacquer then I use bondo cause it doesn't shrink. For normal paint Spackle works great.
Scott, Try using denatured alcohol to clean the putty off. It works great with out risking the lacquer thinner marks.
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Redrock
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Posted: April 15 2007 at 2:06pm |
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You can also mix sawdust from your sanding with elmers glue, it makes a great nail hole filler especially if you are going to paint.
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pmpt
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Posted: April 15 2007 at 8:36pm |
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So I dug out all of the old putty, and used the spackle as holdencraft suggested. Dried within 30 minutes, gave it about an hour for good measure. Then I sanded it down and I'm about ready to paint. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Dion Richins
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Posted: April 15 2007 at 8:39pm |
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Anytime.
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pmpt
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 12:01pm |
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Just an update, I got the holes filled, sanded and painted. I put a clear coat on it last night. Hopefully tomorrow or maybe even this evening I'll be able to transfer my livestock. Thanks for your help with my little delima!
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superman1981
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 12:20pm |
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Does anyone else every use Elmers Wood filler or am I alone with this one?
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Dion Richins
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 12:54pm |
You run a risk of it cracking. You would be better off mixing the wood dust with lacquer . I make my own maple putty that way.
Your still my hero even if you use Elmer's glue.
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superman1981
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 2:56pm |
Gee thanks Dion, building up my self esteem yet again! Time to throw out the Elmers! I'm thinking of building a new canopy here in the near future so you can count on me picking your brain for ideas since you are the resident wood expert... I still want the pirate doors, but that may have to wait until I get my own aggressive tank 
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Sure you are, you are Crappy Reef Club Member #1 -Chk4tix 6 gal nanocube 65 gal build thread
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jfinch
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 3:54pm |
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I'm a big fan of Titebond yellow glue. I don't like like the weatherproof version (Titebond II) and use a polyurethane glue (usually Gorilla Glue) if the piece will see water or outside weather. I now see that Titebond has a version III of their weatherproof glue. Have you used it, Dion?
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GARFVolunteer
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 4:12pm |
Jon,
I have used Titebond III for most of my wood working projects and have always been happy with it. If I am building something that will that will be painted and have small voids in it. like my stand's frame, I have used Gorilla glue
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Dion Richins
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 5:07pm |
I use titebond 2  . Longer open time with stronger bond. I havent used #3 but Ive been told its good.
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bbeck4x4
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 6:06pm |
I used to use gorilla glue, then i found sumo glue, it is made by loctite, http://www.sumoglue.com Dion it will bond to the melamine used on the particle board drawers, I have been fixing the drawers at the gym with this stuff and it holds without needing to re-staple it.
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Dion Richins
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 6:17pm |
Does it foam like gorilla glue? 
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bbeck4x4
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 6:21pm |
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not nearly as much and dries white, kinda like the old elmers glue. also dries faster.
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jfinch
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 6:24pm |
Dion, do you really think TB II is a stronger bond? I've probably only used a couple bottles of it and was not really impressed, but it was about 10-15 yrs ago. I've used the original Titebond ever since and really like it. I've been wanting to give the TB III a try, maybe my next bottle.
Sumo is awsome. It doesn't foam nearly as much as the "brown" polyurethane glues. I've not used it with wood (only on foam RC models).
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fj40fax
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 7:27pm |
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What do you guys think of using Sumo to do my bare bottom?? Think
it will leach anything or is it just polyurethane like gorilla?
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