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PeggySue 
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 Topic: Cutting Acrylic
Posted: September 10 2008 at 1:55pm |
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Does anyone have a better recommendation for cutting acrylic instead of a bandsaw or a tablesaw?
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Famous last words, "Parks, Recreations & Tourism"
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Crazy Tarzan
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Posted: September 10 2008 at 2:05pm |
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fine tooth blade. both of those work great if you have a blade that can deal with plastic, the finer tooth the less it rips, or breaks out of the plastic with each tooth and gives a smoother cut. I'd go the bandsaw since it would cut thinner and finer.
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Was that in there yesterday? Casper--WY windier than ?
Down to a 20, soon to double or nothing
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jfinch
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Posted: September 10 2008 at 2:11pm |
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Tablesaw with a carbide blade with at least 60 teeth (the more the marrier, ATB with very little to no rake is my fav grind) is going to give a cut that requires no additional edge prep for gluing. A bandsaw is going to wander around too much. But the cut from a bandsaw can be cleaned up using a router set in a table and a fence.
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Dion Richins
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Posted: September 10 2008 at 7:45pm |
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80 tooth, 5 degree, negative Rake Melamine or Solid surface Blade with alternating bevels is awesome. Other wise my cnc does a great job if its the good stuff.....never can remember which is better. (Table saw is definatly cheaper than having it cnc'd.)
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john hill
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Posted: September 10 2008 at 9:56pm |
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tile saw is what i use
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out with the large and in with the nano
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Dion Richins
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Posted: September 10 2008 at 11:28pm |
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I didnt think of that!
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stephan
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Posted: September 11 2008 at 9:06am |
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I used my cheap skilsaw with a straight-edged board clamped to the acrylic as a guide to get within ~1/8" and then finished the edge with the same clamped straight edge and a router. The router gave really great edges. I just had to be careful clamping the guide well to make sure i had 90 degree angles.
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Stephan Lovstedt
Camarillo, CA
65 Gallon Glass
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Shane H
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Posted: September 11 2008 at 9:14am |
I used a cheapo plywood blade when I made my baffles. I ran the blade backwards and went very slowly. I had to find a good balance between not chipping the acrylic and not melting the acrylic. I had to clean the edges afterwards, but it made a nice, straight cut.
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PeggySue
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Posted: September 11 2008 at 10:31am |
 Holdencraft 33 wrote:
80 tooth, 5 degree, negative Rake Melamine or Solid surface Blade with alternating bevels is awesome. Other wise my cnc does a great job if its the good stuff.....never can remember which is better. (Table saw is definatly cheaper than having it cnc'd.) |
LOL, I guess I should have mentioned that I wasn't starting up a business, I just wanted to cut about 10 pieces. But what do you charge??
Thanks for all the great comments. It sounds like getting a better blade with more teeth will probably solve my problem.
John Hill, are you using a wet saw with a diamond blade? I thought about using ours, but when I got it out, the blade was pretty worn out so I didn't try it. If I knew it was going to work, I would invest the money and go get another blade.
Okay, one more question...
if I want to route a curve on a corner, how do I smooth the surface out so it looks all nice and shiny again?
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Famous last words, "Parks, Recreations & Tourism"
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SSpargur
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Posted: September 11 2008 at 10:34am |
PeggySue wrote:
Okay, one more question...
if I want to route a curve on a corner, how do I smooth the surface out so it looks all nice and shiny again? |
I used a buffing wheel on a Dremel tool. It worked great.
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Sean Spargur
West Valley, UT
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PeggySue
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Posted: September 11 2008 at 11:18am |
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Famous last words, "Parks, Recreations & Tourism"
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jfinch
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Posted: September 11 2008 at 11:24am |
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if I want to route a curve on a corner, how do I smooth the surface out so it looks all nice and shiny again?
Round over bit in router followed by 400 grit sand paper then buffed out using a rag wheel in loaded with buffing compound (in a hand drill) is how I do it.
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larhalli
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Posted: September 11 2008 at 12:54pm |
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When Corey did that presentation on the calcium reactor it seems like Shane Silcox cut his stuff with a laser saw or something. That was a nice cut on those flanges.
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Larry Halliday
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john hill
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Posted: September 11 2008 at 1:03pm |
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yes i use a wet saw with a diamond blade just try a scrap peice and see if your blade will work
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out with the large and in with the nano
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jfinch
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Posted: September 11 2008 at 1:06pm |
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Another method is to use a torch to melt the edge. I've not had very good luck doing this with a "plumbers" propane torch (I get bubbles and crazing). But if you have an acetylene torch it'd probably work fine.
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Corey Price
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Posted: September 11 2008 at 6:18pm |
Yeah, if you have a laser cutter, use that  . However, the cuts weren't 90 degrees due to the heat of the laser, it seems.
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PeggySue
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Posted: September 17 2008 at 3:41pm |
john hill wrote:
yes i use a wet saw with a diamond blade just try a scrap peice and see if your blade will work |
It worked great, thanks! The old blade was melting the acrylic a little bit so I broke down and bought a new blade (a whooping $12) and now the edges look really good. Plus, it's a lot safer than the bandsaw was.
I found one more way to cut acrylic that work really well and I bet none of you guys have tried this one. (this was before I tried the wetsaw.) When I was at Regional Plastic picking up the acrylic, I just said, "how much does it cost to have you cut 8 pieces for me?" It worked great!! Perfect cuts, relatively fast and no mess. 
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bannshy
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Posted: September 17 2008 at 3:47pm |
looks like I should send my wife there when I need acrylic. 
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jfinch
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Posted: September 17 2008 at 3:57pm |
Where's the fun in having someone else cut it for you? 
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PeggySue
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Posted: September 17 2008 at 6:05pm |
jfinch wrote:
Where's the fun in having someone else cut it for you?
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You are right, it does take some fun out of it. But putting it together was a lot more fun...the pieces were cut straight....imagine that.
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Famous last words, "Parks, Recreations & Tourism"
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