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downhill_biker 
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Joined: February 28 2009
Location: West Jordan, UT
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 Posted: April 11 2010 at 10:22am |
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^I see what you mean nick. Maybe he is having 2 drain lines? I am really confused. And at that water level you would run the risk of flooding big time if power went out. Not sure how the fuge works. Everything else looks amazing.
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kody72
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Posted: April 11 2010 at 10:40am |
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I bet he's gonna t off 1 of the 2 drain into the fuge and the return pump will go next to the reactor
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CapnMorgan
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Posted: April 11 2010 at 11:39am |
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I bet you're right Kody
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Steve My Old 180G Mixed ReefCurrently: 120G Wavefront Mixed 29G Seahorse & Softies Running ReefAngel Plus x2 435-8
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tcfab
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Posted: April 11 2010 at 12:47pm |
I am using the Herbie method for my drain system. The two holes on the front lefthand side of my sump are where the drain lines will be. That first chamber right under the drain lines, the water will fill up and (pour) into the filter socks and into the skimmer chamber. This makes taking out the filter socks WAY easier then if there is a tube going down the middle of them. The water then flows past the skimmer through the bubble trap and into the next compartment where the calcium reactor is. This is my return area (still havent put my ATO float in). The pump is a Reeflo Dart external pump, so all that is going to be in the return area for the pump is a bulkhead. The whole back of my sump is my fuge. I am going to have a manifold on my return plumbing to feed my carbon reactor, phosphate reactor, calcium reactor and also supply water to the fuge in the back left hand side of the sump from a bulkhead on the top eurobrace. The water will trickle down the teeth you see on the white divider of the sump in the right hand corner. By doing this I am not feeding the fuge with "raw" water and making it a waste dump. The water level in the front chamber is 9" and the fuge will be 15" that leaves me room for 23 gallons of water in the front compartment for when the pump is shut off or in the event of power failure. My tank will only dump around 8-9 gallons of water when the pump is shut off or in the event of a power failure, so I have more then enough room for when this happens. I hope I explained that so it makes sense 
Edited by tcfab - April 11 2010 at 12:58pm
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downhill_biker
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Posted: April 11 2010 at 10:44pm |
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Sounds good. I was getting worried when I started looking at it, but you have it figured out. It's a little complex for me, but it will definitely serve the purpose.
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tcfab
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Posted: April 11 2010 at 10:47pm |
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LOL, it just sounds complex its really not. I will have to post pics of the plumbing when I get to that point and it will make more sense.
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Corey Price
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Posted: April 12 2010 at 12:03am |
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Makes sense to me and looks good, although I hate filter socks.
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tcfab
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Posted: April 12 2010 at 7:58am |
I thought I would give them a try, I know they can be a pain sometimes They sump can run without them too.
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Deluxe247
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Posted: April 12 2010 at 8:47am |
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Filter socks are a double-edged sword. They're great for removing (or rather trapping) detritus and other unwanted particulate matter, and for that very reason they need to be changed frequently so they don't foul the water. I only run mine for a day or two at a time. Anyway, that's actually a very cool sump setup you've got there. I was confused too, but your explanation helped. It's good to see everybody's ideas to get inspiration for my next build (not any time soon).
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90G Mixed Reef
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downhill_biker
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Posted: May 11 2010 at 12:27pm |
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Any updates on this Tyler? I have been anxiously awaiting more pics on this amazing build...
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tcfab
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Posted: May 11 2010 at 7:31pm |
No, I wish It has been put on temporary hold for the moment. My wife got laid off from work about 2 weeks ago so we are trying to be careful with our money for the moment. She just got a new job so I should be back at it again before to much longer. 
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Ricordia
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Posted: May 12 2010 at 10:15pm |
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Can you post any details about your DIY light fixture while we wait? :) I'm looking at replacing my MH system with an 8x54w T5 system and DIY sounds like the right route.
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Rich Allen
Murray, UT
150g Leemar Starfire reef tank with a 40g sump
75g planted freshwater with tetras
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tcfab
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Posted: May 12 2010 at 11:29pm |
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Are you wanting to build your own fixture or are you putting a retro inside a canopy? I really like the look of the Elos LED fixtures on there nanos and that is kind of the look I am going for on my t5 fixture. My whole fixture will be suported from the back of the tank from a curved piece of 2x6 aluminum mounted on my stand. It kind of gives the look of the fixture just floating above the tank. The fixture and mounting arm will be "brushed " and then clear coating to seal them to give them a modern look.
Edited by tcfab - May 12 2010 at 11:30pm
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BobC63
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Posted: May 13 2010 at 12:26am |
Maybe you already explained this, and I missed it...
Is there a particular reason your Ca reactor is inside your sump?
Is it not an external - capable model?
Or is it a space (under the stand) issue?
P.S. - that sump really looks very, very sweet! 
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- My Current Tank: 65g Starfire (sitting empty for 2+ years) -
* Marine & Reef tanks since 1977 *
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tcfab
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Posted: May 13 2010 at 8:00am |
The calcium reactor may not go in there not sure yet, I was just toying with the idea. Yeah it is an external model but it can go in the sump as well. The reason I thougt about doing it in sump is because if it ever leaked it would just stay in the system, also the sump is going in my crawl space which is kind of cold in the winter and the pump on the reactor is just free heat for winter time. We will have to see though, I am not 100% its going in there yet
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Ricordia
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Posted: May 13 2010 at 8:14am |
 tcfab wrote:
Are you wanting to build your own fixture or are you putting a retro inside a canopy? |
My current fixture is a suspended Aquaspacelight 2, so it will have to be a complete new build. I like the sound of the ATI powermodule system, but it doesn't appear to have any room for my moonlights. Are you planning to build your fixture from scratch or do you have an aluminum carcass already?
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Rich Allen
Murray, UT
150g Leemar Starfire reef tank with a 40g sump
75g planted freshwater with tetras
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tcfab
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Posted: May 13 2010 at 8:31am |
It will be built from scratch, I do alot of custom sheet metal work for cars so I have all the tools needed to build it. Let me know if you need help building yours, they are pretty easy. You could build your own powermodule for alot less.  You can buy the ballast's and reflectors ATI uses from reefgeek.
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P.Kapp
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Posted: May 13 2010 at 11:06am |
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I really like your idea of the curved arm holding your light over your tank, and making it look like its floating. My ceiling is vaulted where I will be putting my new tank, and too high for my liking to run cords from the ceiling. I have been trying to think of a way to mount my light, while still keeping it looking clean. Do you have any pics of how you are going to build it?
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tcfab
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Posted: May 13 2010 at 7:30pm |
I only have a drawing that I did to get an idea of what it will look like, I dont have a scanner though  What kind of light are you using on your tank P.Kapp?
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DanhNgo
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Posted: May 13 2010 at 8:55pm |
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oh man. I really like the rimless tank. it's really clean looks.
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200 Gal Reef
25 Gal Nano Reef
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