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Birth of a Frag Tank and Mixing Station.

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Josh95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Josh95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 01 2011 at 10:52am
that looks awesome burt, those candy canes look great.
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Jeffs_little_ocean View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeffs_little_ocean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 01 2011 at 1:07pm

Looks good Burt. Okay time to explain afew things lol. I know im kind of a pain, but you do a good job of explaining things in a way that makes sense, so how does your ATO work? Does it run straght from your RO, to that jug in the pic? Does it use a float valve, or float switches with solinoids? Also how does that little Kalk reactor work?

Life is good....right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bfessler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 01 2011 at 1:58pm
Hi Jeff,
The ATO used to be a simple reservoir with an aqualifter pump controlled by 2 float switches back when it was connected to my 55 gallon system. I modified it for this setup because I now have about 130 gallons of water and the 6 gallon tank only lasts about 3 days.
 
Now I Teed into the RODI Output and ran a line directly to the 6 gallon tank and installed a float valve to shut off the water. Then the aqualifter pump pumps water through the kalk reactor to the sump. The  Aqualifter is still controlled by 2 float switches. One turns on the water when the level drops and the other is a backup that will shut off the water if the first one fails in the on position. I have been leery about connecting a line directly to the ATO from the RO unit because I didn't want to possibly overflow the sump if the ATO didn't shut off for some reason. Now if the float valve sticks open it will overflow into my floor drain, not the sump and the safety float switch should prevent the sump from overflowing.
 
The Kalk reactor was a design Jerry Orn showed me using a basic water filter with the cartridge replaced with a piece of tubing. Then it is plumbed backward so that water runs down the tube into the Kalk at the bottom of the filter and back up and out of the reactor to the sump. Because the kalk sinks to the bottom and the flow from the aqualifter is slow clear kalk saturated water is supplied to the sump and the kalk is stirred by the slow flow of water from the pump. I picked up the filter from BRS for under $20 and it works great.
Burt

An equal opportunity reefer,
I support all hobbyists and organizations involved in Marine Aquarium Keeping.
[email protected]
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bfessler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bfessler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 30 2011 at 7:30am
I've been intrigued by reefers who dose Vodka to lower nitrates but it always seemed too risky to me. The vodka is used as a carbon source for bacteria that consume nitrates and phosphates allowing higher bioloads, increased feeding and pristine water quality. The down side is if you over dose your system you can nuke the whole tank. Then came along NP BioPellets which are a solid carbon source for the denitrifying bacteria. The advantage of this type of media is that bacteria levels are much more stable. Bulk Reef Supply is now selling their own brand of BioPellets and I ordered a bag and a Two Little Fishies Media Reactor at the same time as I ordered my skimmer. Because I wasn't having any issues with nitrates or nuisance algae I hadn't installed the reactor until a little less than 2 weeks ago when I returned from CA and found a considerable amount of cyano in the sump and a huge diatom bloom in the Nano that is plumbed into my frag tank and sump.

The instructions stated that it would take from 2 to 4 weeks for the bacteria to colonize in the media and begin reducing nitrate and phosphate levels so I hooked everything up and wasn't expecting much for a few weeks. I left for CA a few days later and when I returned to my surprise all the cyano was gone as well as most of the brown diatoms. The skimmer was also pulling out much more waste than usual as well. So far everything in the tank looks great, all the corals and fish are doing well and the water is extremely clear. I haven't been using the BioPellets long enough to know how they will do long term but they look very promising as a way to keep nutrient levels at bay. Here is a pic of the reactor and BioPellets.

It is recommended that the discharge from the media reactor be fed either near or directly into the skimmer to remove excess bacteria from the water column and I can attest that the skimmer is pulling out much more skimmate than before I installed the reactor. It took a little time to get the skimmer adjusted properly so it didn't pull out to much wet skimmate but now everything is working well. Here is a link to the BRS Biopellets.
Burt

An equal opportunity reefer,
I support all hobbyists and organizations involved in Marine Aquarium Keeping.
[email protected]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dustponds10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 07 2011 at 3:02am
Burt that is exactly what I have set up.  Great looking system.  hope all is well. 
120
ASM G-3
T-5 lighting
130 frag system
T-5 lighting
asm G-1x
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kellerexpress Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 07 2011 at 4:32am
Keep us updated with the bio-pellets, I am thinking of using them with my new build.
IM 30L
Kessil A160we x2
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