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Death of fishy friends

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    Posted: March 28 2012 at 7:46am
We've had 2 fishie deaths in as many days and we have no idea why :( The fishies we've lost are a royal gramma and a yellow eyed tang.

The gramma died yesterday while we were at work. His behavior had been a little off a couple of days prior. He was hiding even more than usual and wasn't eating as often as he usually does but he was still swimming around from cave to cave and didn't seem lethargic, didn't have anything unusual on him as I know you'll often find with many illnesses. So while sad since there were no visible signs of disease and all the other fish were acting normally we didn't concern ourselves overmuch until this morning when we found the tang dead.

The tang was acting perfectly normal. Was eating well, moving around a lot as he does. He was eating red algae from the rocks, green algae from the glass and seaweed we put in there on a clip and all was well. Same as the gramma there was nothing visably wrong with him.

We got the tang maybe 3 weeks ago and I would guess just under 2 months ago for the gramma. Our tank (as I'm sure many know) is pretty new so we don't have much other livestock left but we'd still like for them to stay alive! The rest of the inhabitants, 2 clowns, red sea starfish, coral banded shrimp,  various CUC (emerald and sally lightfoot crabs, various snails) and all our corals which as of this morning are behaving perfectly normally.

Our levels are as follows: Ammonia barely registered, I'd say about .1ppm. Nitrate and nitrites were 0, Ph was 8.3, salinity was 1.023. I can't tell you on trace minerals but when we had them checked last about a month ago at our LFS everything was hunky dory. Only thing that I can think of that has varied is we haven't done a partial water change about a month because we are low on salt. Since our bioload is low I don't think this is a big problem but I'd be remiss if I didn't mention it.

Our google searches about it kind of lead us to the conclusion that "poop happens" but I wanted to get a second opinion!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Blundell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 28 2012 at 9:19am
I think you are correct.

A couple pictures of your tank would help.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clubbby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 28 2012 at 9:42am
Girlfriend took some pictures but none of them turned out, even with sticking out waterproof camera in the tank. We think it might be ick afterall tho. The clownfish have what she described as "white sand all over" which we both understand is what ick looks like. We actually did notice this on the tang but since said tang just loved rearranging the sand in our tank we figured it actually was sand! It may have been on the clownfish the entire time too. Our 10,000k's are on mostly while we are at work and it is hard to see in the actinic light.

Given that, what's the best treatment? We can quarantine the clownfish. Are any of the other critters at risk? I don't know if CUC, starfish and shrimps can catch this.  We've read higher temps (I'm not positive on this one tho, maybe it hurts more?), gradually lowered salinity and dosing with copper are all good treatments. Anyone agree/disagree?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 28 2012 at 10:26am
I disagree.
It's great that you have come here. Rather than trust what you find in searches on the www, you have come to the right place for the right help with your reef.

Click on the Reefkeeping Tips linked below. These are not just my ramblings but are links to discussions over the 10 years that this MB/forum has been running. There is a Tip there called "Secrets of adding new fish, fish training and the Miracle of Garlic Oil". This is the best advice you may ever hear about how to keep fish disease-free, healthy and happy.
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Some other comments about what you said regarding your reef aquarium.
Two of the most important water tests are missing from your list - Alkalinity(Alk) and Calcium(Ca). In fact, along with Temperature and Salinity, these four tests are so important that for many many years, I have not bothered to test anything but Temperature, Salinity, Alk and Ca.

The lighting "photoperiod" can be shifted. Have the whiter lights turn on later in the day and turn off 30-60 minutes before your bedtime. This way you may enjoy the full colors of the tank for a while in the evening.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clubbby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 28 2012 at 11:12am
Thanks Mark so if not ick any guesses as what what this fine sand might be? And I take it from your recommendation from your link about the new fish that you're recommending I feed our remaining fish with garlic oil soaked food to reduce stress levels?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crzyfshguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 28 2012 at 11:15am
Raise the temps a few degrees to no more than 80, and feed garlic. Kents garlic extreme is the best but I used Garlic extract from the health store in the past as well. Have not had ich on any fish in well over 3 years now, but I always keep my tanks on the warm side and supplement with garlic.

DON'T use copper... It is ok for the fish, but will destroy everything else in the tank, and removing the fish to place them in a QT tank is more stress and likely to cause more harm. If you insist on pulling the fish, the best thing I found for ich is a FW dip in clean, fresh equal temp water for about 1-2 mins. You can actually see the ich start to fall off and die. Again this is alot of stress on the fish but works well if you have exhausted the garlic and temp efforts

And some will disagree, but I have found with EVERY tank I have had the last ten years that the more you mess with the tank, the worse things get. Feed quality food and supplements as needed and leave the tank to do it's thing.  I mess with my tank a lot during the winter but other hobbies cause me to neglect it a bit during the summer and the tank always seems to look really good after I've left it alone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clubbby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 28 2012 at 2:05pm
Were we to temporarily house our corals in a quarantine tank (easier to move them then the fish) and dose with copper would it hurt other things in our tank? (CUC, starfish, shrimp?) And how long after dosing should we wait to put the corals back in? We do run carbon via a HOB (no sump).

Really I guess the question is what is the most likely to work? Copper or garlic oil. If copper is more work and less effective then I'll of course take the advice of using garlic instead :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crzyfshguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 28 2012 at 5:32pm
I would just stay away from copper all together.... It kills just about everything. Riase the temps and feed garlic, then find out the source of the stress that caused the ich to begin with. All tanks have the bacteria that causes ich, but healthy fish don't succumb to it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clubbby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 29 2012 at 7:26am
Well sadly we didn't get that far. What we finally elected to do was pull the clownfish to the quarantine tank. While as mentioned it's stressful for them, we realized that our quarantine tank doesn't have sufficient lighting to keep our coral in for extended periods of time which is what we were originally considering. Girlfriend got some medication called "copper safe" as I recall (Didn't see the "stay away from copper all together til after this", but it was probably too late anyway for the clowns) and we treated the quarantine tank with it and moved the clownfish there but they didn't even make it the night :( So with that, it's a total wipe as far as our fish go :( Shrimp, starfish, corals, and cuc all seem fine tho. Is there any risk for them? I don't know if the illness is communicable to anything besides fish.

Oh and after reading up a little more on the different diseases we are inclined to think it was velvet rather than ick.

But while depressing, because as I'm sure you all understand we got rather attached to them we are not daunted and wish to get it going again. And we will definitely do the garlic oil thing. We weren't prior and I feel it may have made the difference. We'll also get those other testing kits as mentioned earlier.

So my next question is with all the fish gone is there still a risk of new fish getting whatever parasite from the tank? Should we wait a period of time? Should we do certain amounts of water changes beforehand? To be honest I haven't done any research on this at all. Haven't had time and I trust advice here more anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rufessor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 29 2012 at 8:52am
I don't know anything about velvet beyond what it looks like.  However, if it was ICH you will want to keep your aquarium fish free for a good 5-6 weeks to be ABSOLUTELY sure that all the parasite in all its different life stages is dead, gone, never to arise again unless you add more etc etc.  You can easily find references to its life cycle, just look up SALT WATER ich, its not the same as fresh.  And then you will understand why I suggest this.... IF it was ich.  IF you unsure, and it sounds like you are pretty unsure as your diagnosis has switched at least three times....  Wait anyways.  That will hurt absolutely nothing.  

Else, if you or someone with more knowledge is SURE its velvet, you will need to read up on that before adding fish back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clubbby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2012 at 3:24pm
Since we don't know what it was with certainty but it only affected the fish (everything else continues to do well) it seems it must be some kind of parasite. We looked up various different kinds any it seems none of them can survive without a host anywhere near as long as rufessor suggested (6 weeks) so we've added a UV Filter we're running a few hours a day and will wait the full course of 6 weeks before we add something.
But, since we can't be SURE it's gone since we aren't sure what it was, we'd like suggestions on an inexpensive fish we can test the waters with for a month or two. I know damsel is the default answer but it's my understanding they tend to be more terrirorial so I'm not sure that's the best choice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rufessor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2012 at 5:29pm
Unsure exactly how to read your post... as you state that "none of them can survive without a host anywhere near as long".. and then say you "will wait the full course of 6 weeks"... 

So, for my own information, if you researched this.

Can you post how long other parasites are known to live in the absence of the host (fish?) based upon your research, This would be cool to see.  

And then, it sounds like your still not sure it was not Ich, and are going to wait that out just in case?  Is this more or less where your at?

At least corals are fun to watch!  Enjoy the non-fishy inhabitants.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DLindquist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2012 at 6:08pm
Originally posted by clubbby clubbby wrote:

Were we to temporarily house our corals in a quarantine tank (easier to move them then the fish) and dose with copper would it hurt other things in our tank? (CUC, starfish, shrimp?) And how long after dosing should we wait to put the corals back in? We do run carbon via a HOB (no sump).

Really I guess the question is what is the most likely to work? Copper or garlic oil. If copper is more work and less effective then I'll of course take the advice of using garlic instead :)




Quick note- don't ever treat your display tank with copper. You're rock and sand will absorb the copper and continually leach it back into the water. Thus causing problems forever for your livestock.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clubbby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2012 at 6:11pm
Sorry I should clarify. Various placed we read pointed out that any parasitic lifeform cannot survive in the tank very long without a host. Such is the nature of a parasite so I buy that. Just ignore the statement about not surviving near as long. Was a poorly written phrase.

I'm afraid I didn't document anything that we looked up. But we looked up how long velvet and ich survive without a host. The numbers for both were comparable to eachother but the values we read were all over the place. Most commonly we read 2 to 3 days. some said 2 to 3 weeks. Your estimate of 5 to 6 was actually the largest value we've read so we thought the most cautious value was best.

So, any suggestions on which fish to restart/test the tank with?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2012 at 6:39pm
Sometimes the research that new hobbyists do is more confusing than helpful. The reason for this is that too many new hobbyists post misinformation in forums. In this WMAS forum, there are enough experienced hobbyists to refute or call BS on any misinformation posted.

I will try to simplify the points of information that you should know:
- Velvet is a fungus/mold. Mold, toadstools and mushrooms are a form of fungus.
- The Ich parasite is usually the first organism to affect new fish or any fish that is stressed for the many reasons that happen in new (and old) tanks.
- Velvet growth on fins as well as Bacterial infections on the fish are most often brought on by the stress caused to fish by the Ich Parasite.
Just think how you would feel if you had hundreds of mosquito bites all over your body! But the Ich Parasite isn't just on the outside of the body, it attaches in the gill area as well and it's a much larger problem relative to the size of the fish than a mosquito bit is to a human. Very stressful to say the least. Nuke
- Eliminating the Ich Parasite from the reef aquarium may be easy, just wait six weeks, but keeping it out of the aquarium is very difficult and, for most hobbyists, is not worth the time and trouble.
- Every drop of water or piece of LS or LR is a potential carrier of one stage or another of the Ich Parasite - It only takes one hitchhiking parasite to quickly produce 100's.
- The simplest, most economical and productive way to keep Ich from causing trouble is to use the specific Garlic Oil product that works for each particular reef aquarium. (I don't know why exactly, but I have had good luck with the $5 bottle of 50 gel capsules. Others say that a $25 bottle of Kent Garlic Xtreme is what works best for them. I would always try the inexpensive stuff first.)
- If one Garlic product doesn't work within two days, it never will. Try another product.
- Damsels are very, very tough. I guarantee that if you add one or more of them tomorrow, most of them will survive. So that's not a good test to see if the Ich Parasite has been subdued or eliminated.

For some advice that is specific for your tank, please post a full tank pic, tell us the Alk and Ca levels and tell us about the tank's filtration. I have a few fish in mind but would like to see the tank first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ReefdUp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2012 at 7:44pm
Mark - I believe "marine velvet" is frequently the nickname given to Amyloodinium, a dinoflagellate (not a fungus.)  Fungal infections on reef fish are quite rare, but Amyloodinium and Cryptocaryon irritans (marine ich) are not.  Amyloodinium is usually characterized by difficulty breathing IME rather than the white spots typically found with Crypt.  The lifecycles of the parasites are quite similar, but the treatments are different (So about 5-6 weeks is best for treatment).  I recommend hyposalinity for most fish for crypt, but Amy is more difficult to treat (lots of experimentals out there...including hydrogen peroxide.)
 
I know we also disagree on the use of garlic, and we'll continue to disagree until I see proof garlic works.  I always suggest the use of a quarantine and PraziPro as a minimum for internal parasites.  (And I personally always use hyposalinity to prevent crypt breakouts.)
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DLindquist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2012 at 7:52pm
[QUOTE=Mark Peterson] Sometimes the research that new hobbyists do is more confusing than helpful. The reason for this is that too many new hobbyists post misinformation in forums. In this WMAS forum, there are enough experienced hobbyists to refute or call BS on any misinformation posted.

Well said Mark!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DLindquist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2012 at 7:59pm
Originally posted by Reef'd Up Reef'd Up wrote:



I know we also disagree on the use of garlic, and we'll continue to disagree until I see proof garlic works.
 


I have to jump in and say "I couldn't agree more"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2012 at 8:09pm
LOL It's working.
I'm a simple coral farmer. I guess I was confusing it with freshwater Velvet unless I'm also wrong about that organism. Embarrassed Thanks to Reef'dUp for calling my BS! Thumbs Up
I'm not as conversant about fish diseases. Never had the interest, just know that Garlic Oil has made fish survival rate go way, way up for so many hobbyists.

Unfortunately, I've never had the pleasure of visiting with all the excellent hobbyists that have joined this group in recent years. If I were still living local, I would have made it a point to visit and learn from them. I recommend that as the best way to improve quickly in this hobby.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ReefdUp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2012 at 8:25pm
Hehe, it's a lot of info, and it's easy to get them all confused. That's why I try to stick with the scientific names (Amy, Crypt, etc) rather than "marine velvet", "marine ich", etc. I've only been out of the freshwater hobby for 5 years, and I don't think I could tell you anything about it all now. Embarrassed
 
I use garlic, and I will never tell anyone to not use it. I know plenty of people have had success with it, but I have to question...was it the garlic or that the owner thought it would work...and therefore tried harder to get the fish to live? (Or maybe some other correlation.) I'm an engineer...so I have to have data behind my methods and madness. Until I see that data, I just can't blindly recommend it.
 
With all that said, Beer...and if anyone would like to see my fish QT and coral QT setup, it's just about ready for public viewing. Once finals are over, I'll be sane again.
 
Here's my blog on Crypt (marine ich) if anyone is interested.


Edited by Reef'd Up - April 09 2012 at 8:26pm
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