Dino Algae HELP

I have been feeding one time a day at the most and only have 3 wrasse in the tank with lots or snails. I have been running my EA Cone skimmer all hours as well as GFO and carbon is changed out frequently.
Alk -around 8.5
Calcium- 450
Mag 4000
Phosphates were nearly undetectable but I'm not sure what number.
Nitrates- nearly undetectable

Magnesium is at 1400, sorry it was a typo. I used a red slime remover after becoming desperate and I'm wondering if it killed a lot of beneficial bacteria. It's been going on for about 3 weeks.

Cutting back on the water changes is a good idea, and that fresh di resin is going to help. When I spoke to you recently it sounded like you hadn't changed the di in a while, and that may have had something to do with the outbreak. I have to change my di every couple months and I deal with less water than you. Others may not agree but in my experience anything other than 0 tds causes algae/cyano issues in my tanks. Also just curious what salt do you use?

I've got 2 other thoughts, first have you ever considered hydrogen peroxide? Check this thread out http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/reef-aquarium-discussion/52084-dinoflagellates-my-experience-h2o2-reefing-tool.html
If you try this start really low on the dose and watch your sps close, but if you are desperate I think it may be worth a shot.
And second something that helped me get rid of my algae problems was carbon dosing. Vinegar specifically. It doesn't sound like you have a lot of excess nutrients but it may help.

Kellerexpress, I agree with nothing but 0 TDS. I'm glad you came by and recomended the new DI filter. I will consider hydrogen peroxide if it lasts another week or two. I want to see if the new DI helps with no water changes first but that's definarely in the plans of the pesky algae keeps growing. It actually looks like its growing less now for I've said that before. I removed most of my chaeto that was covered and I think it's helping by removing the excess nutrients. There is a small clean peice that looks healthy.

Bur01014- I agree that donos follow cyano but with my 8 years in the hobby I've never even seem donos but maybe I just got lucky. I'm going to wait a few weeks before doing anything like you say as it seems that yesterday there was hardly any growth and my acros look like they are starting to get their color back.

I raised my Alk as I read that a higher pH helps get rid of it and my acros have better polyp extension now and the algae growth was minimum yesterday. Time will tell. The Alk is around 10 and I raises mybubble rate on the calcium reactor to keep it high.

Mark, thanks for confirming the cause of the donos. I will patiently explain my filtration and routine maintenance in order to find the flaw. I love how nice you tell me that I goofed up. Funny how I thought I was patient for months before adding the cyano medication. Not long enough though. I think the cyano started when a green open brain that was stressed from another tank started to die.
First off I only have 3 small wrasse in the at the moment as I lost most of my fish a few weeks after the cyano started. When the cyano started my sps corals looked happier and more colorful than ever and all my fish were fat and happy. As soon as the cyano showed its face is when my blue tang got ich and shortly after all fish but my wrasse(mystery and coris) dies one by one. I has a pair of cardinals, a Midas blenny, Naso tang, Kole Tang, and a small cromi. I fed one a day rotating pellets, Rods food and frozen mysis shrimp. I used less than half of a cube and no more than they could cobble down in a few minutes. I would add Nori every other day.

I do 5 g water changes weekly, and I have 2 filter socks that I rotate changing every 3 days so each one is on there about 6 days or until it looks discolored.

I have a Mag 16 return pump, an mp 40 turned up all the way on various modes throughout the day, an EA cone skimmer that's is emptied every 3 days due to the dark gunk it pulls out, BRS dual reactor with GFO and carbon changed monthly, Koralia calcium reactor. I have a refugium with chaeto that would get covered in cyano but would grow well possibly doubling monthly. The refugium light turns on at 9pm and turns off at 3 pm.

I scrape the class every 3 or 4 days when it has a green algae growing in it. Now it's only dinos growing on it. I use to add weekly amino acids, I think the brand is Brightwell Aquatics.

Any other info that you need? I'm thinking of keeping my fish bio load low and only adding a few more small fish and a kole tang once this is under control.

I agree with Kellerexpress that everything seems good, and that adding anything right now could be counterproductive to seeing the resolution to this problem, but I would still like to see a pic if that's okay.

One thing I would suggest, for now anyway and I think you said it already, is to stop doing water changes. Later, when the algae problem has abated, try 10% monthly water changes. It's better for you. It's better for them.

I've noticed that hobbyist problems with Cyano seem to be on the rise and this thing where Dinoflagellates crop up along with or following a bout of Cyano was unheard of 10 years ago. This may correlate with the advent of the GFO/AC reactor combined with the more common use of supplements. I'm inclined to suggest observing the effects of completely removing the reactor and stopping the addition of all additives except for Alk, Ca and Mg. This dual action is not altogether bad, since AC and GFO actually remove some of the chemical compounds that supplements either add and/or encourage to grow in a reef aquarium. But I ask the question, Why add things just to have them removed by the continual running of these media?

When GFO came on the scene, it was widely acclaimed as a better media for PO4 removal than Activated Alumina(AA), yet a recent Cyano/nuisance algae problem in Bob Carlson's reef seems to have abated when he switched from GFO to AA.

Another comment is that 3 Wrasses means that the herbivorous bug population (Amphipods, Copepods and a variety of other biofiltration animals, including worms like spaghetti worms) is either very small or nonexistent. These bugs and worms eat algae before we hobbyists see it. I wrote about the benefits of having a good bug population in an article I called Herbivores vs. Carnivores in a SeaStar Newsletter. Let's see, here is the link. http://utahreefs.com/SeaStar/SeaStarJunePrint.pdf

Just for interest, here is a pic I took of a giant spaghetti worm and another pic of it's home, a tide pool along my Hamakua Coast.

I added Purigen in hopes that it will take all the silicates out and stop the algae. I will update in a few days and let you know what happens.

just curious but what are people putting stuff like Purigen in exactly? like filtersocks or some HOB filters or something? #newb 

Mine came in a small bag I just placed in my sump.