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hydro phoenix
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Posted: May 28 2012 at 10:33am |
Ok, I'll cut back both vacuuming and water changes, the alk is at 300ppm and the cal is at 400 so it's a little low. And (Mark) you've mentioned the garlic oil before I do remember that now. Where would you suggest I get it at? I've only used garlic guard. It says that I can freeze it with the food so that's why I've been doing it that way. I'll get the ph measurements to you (Mark) tomorrow and I'll email the photos after I finish this pm. Thanks again for eveyones' advice and suggestions. I truly appreciate it. David, Mark, Billy, Fatman,Trevor, Wicked, Adam, Dlindquist you all are so wonderful to help me out. I'll copy and past that article(David) for future reference.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 28 2012 at 4:29pm |
Okay good. Here are two pics: The tank looks really good, similar to what I remember when Donna and I visited, except that the rock looks way better now. An Alkalinity reading of 300 ppm is very high. Can you double check that reading? 175 ppm would be a much better number. The Ca at 400 ppm is just fine. What are all the supplements added to the tank? What Alk and Ca supplements are you using? I would stop them both immediately and then keep an eye on Alk and Ca weekly for the next few weeks. The reason we don't vacuum the LS of a reef aquarium is that lots of good life grows in the sand. Live Sand is 50-80% of the biofiltration. Removing the life by vacuuming destroys much of this biofiltration. Without it, the health of the tank is seriously jeopardized. There should be worms growing in the LS. The easy way to keep the sand looking clean is to stir it periodically like Dave said, and/or to get a Sand Sifting Cucumber. Stay away from Sand Sifting Stars as they ruin the LS by eating everything. The thread at this link http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34014 describes the most effective use of Garlic Oil and recommends the type to buy along with the best method of administering it. I'm not kidding when I say that for me, the way I found to do it, it always works. There is a scum layer on the water surface. To remove this get some paper towels. Set a paper towel sheet on the water and immediately grab it in the middle and throw it out. Do this several times until the scum is mostly absorbed and discarded. You're on the right track. I'm still interested in seeing the early morning pH reading.
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Jeffatpm
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Posted: May 28 2012 at 7:16pm |
I get garlic from the grocery store. I put it through a ricer or finely chop/puree it. dump it right in the tank, helps keep the ich away from my 8 tangs - powder blue included.
Like Mark said it works a bit different for every tank and each tank is unique.
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210 Reef with loads of LEDS Large Fishey Room Located Near Jordan Landing in West Jordan.
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CCFMIG
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Posted: May 28 2012 at 7:51pm |
The only time I have successfully conquered ich is when I removed all the fish and put into qt for 72 days. I treated with copper (qt tank) and changed 50% of the water every other day for the first week. Marine Ich lifespan in a marine aquarium can last for up to 72 days but that is the worse case scenario. So the following should take care of the issue....
1. QT ALL FISH for 72 days or more. 2. Treat QT tank with copper and feed allot. 3. Garlic does not cure ich but will entice the fish to eat more and that's good. 4. Do 50% water change every 2 days for the first 2 weeks and 25% once a week after. This helps remove the ich that is floating in the tank. (Also using a UV sterilizer helps kill the ich) 5. Make sure you have something in the QT tank for the fish to hide in or around. This relieves stress and will help the fish's immune system become stronger. Remember DO NOT put this item/items back into the main tank because of the copper. 6. After the 72 days, Provided your fish is in good health, give the fish a small freshwater bath. (about 20-30 seconds)
Hope this helps!
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hydro phoenix
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Posted: May 28 2012 at 9:56pm |
calcium, ions, fuel. All Seachem products (Aquavitro). Iodine on monday only. I test for alk before I add it. If it's in the ok zone I don't add more. Same with the ph. Again Seachem products. I'll get that reading for you tomorrow.
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hydro phoenix
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Posted: May 29 2012 at 5:48am |
Just tested the ph and it is 7.8
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 29 2012 at 1:21pm |
Good, thanks for that info. There is a time zone and daylight savings time difference between us. Am
I figuring correctly that post was made at 5:48 AM your time (12:48 AM
Hawaii Time)?
That's not totally bad pH for that time of the morning, but it could be
better. For comparison, how far does pH swing night to day? What's the pH 12 hours later after the lights
have been on all day
Did you see my earlier comment about Alkalinity being way high? Update
I would suggest stopping all supplements for now. As far as I can tell,
the tank has everything in place to be a healthy environment. Even the high Alk will not be a problem, because it will come down on it's own, in time. The tank just
needs to be left alone to recover on it's own, to build a healthy biofiltration.
And how about the surface scum? Did you use the paper towel trick
The reason this is important is because the oily scum restricts the
free exchange of gases between the water and the air, thus lowering pH.
A more active rolling of the water surface helps increase pH too. The
pic down below shows a good rolling surface water when powerheads are aimed
closer to vertical. That way the water flow hits the surface and spreads
out in all directions.
Also, have you purchased a $5 bottle of stinky Garlic Oil (gel caps) at the grocery store
The Garlic Guard did not work, but another product can be found that will work for this tank. Because there is only one fish, I would squeeze the gel cap and just
wipe a quarter drop of the oil on a fourth of a cube of frozen meaty food, then
let it thaw and marinate before feeding slowly to ensure the fish eats
the food before the oil has a chance to separate from the food. I am no
expert, but I have helped hundreds of hobbyists avoid the problems
caused by the Ich parasite and they didn't have to go to all the trouble
described in the 6 elaborate steps a few posts above. Oh, and thawing and refreezing frozen food is not so good. Consider this: Would you eat meat that had been thawed and refrozen?
Edited by Mark Peterson - May 29 2012 at 1:30pm
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hydro phoenix
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Posted: May 29 2012 at 9:56pm |
I'll add another koralia to the mix. I forgot to measure the alk today as I wasn't home at 5:48 this evening. I'll have to do that tomorrow. I didn't get any residue on the towel so yeah...dunno about that. I'm on my way right now to pic up the garlic oil capsules. I also add pellets every now and then, should I stop that?They don't seem to prefer one(frozen) over the other(pellets).
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Cody
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Posted: May 29 2012 at 11:38pm |
From all the research I read. Garlic doesn't actually get rid of ick. Garlic actually builds fish immune systems and that helps in keeping fish healthy enough to keep ick away. Not sure if that was said yet. Didn't read whole thread.
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hydro phoenix
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Posted: May 30 2012 at 8:10am |
Thanks Cody, That has been the subject of a few hot debates(garlic). Some swear by it and others don't. I'm not on one side or the other. I'm not educated enough to decide for myself. I use it though because more people tell me to than to not.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 30 2012 at 10:22am |
I'm not sure if I said it right but I was asking for a pH reading in the afternoon/evening and also for an Alk reading which can be done at any time. After using a paper towel, residue may not show up on the paper towel, but the oily scum will cover less of the water surface. The oily scum is only visible from outside when looking up at the water surface. It's very common in aquariums that don't have an overflow or only a small overflow to a sump. Fish will eat any fish food until their bellies look like they will burst. I abhor dry processed flake or pellet foods. I've seen how they are manufactured. 95% of what I feed is natural meaty and vegetative foods. Emerald Entree and Rod's Food are two very good frozen meaty foods because they contain some algae as well. Nori, macroalgae and phytoplankton are good for almost all fish and inverts. Regarding Garlic OilFrom the experience I have had with using it for many dozens of my own and 100's of others aquariums, my observation is that something about Garlic Oil irritates the Ich parasite making it not host on the fish in sufficient numbers or strength to bother the fish. Period. The theory about Garlic preventing the Ich parasite because it assists the body's microscopic immune system just does not make sense to me. The immune system may have some role, longer term, but when a seriously infested fish is fed a Garlic Oil product in the evening and the next morning wakes up almost completely clear of the parasite and acting normal once again, isn't that an immediate chemical response, rather than a biological immune building thing? As I said in the Reefkeeping Tip about Garlic Oil, we don't know exactly why, but different fish in different reef aquariums respond differently to different Garlic Oil Products. Each product is made differently. All are not the same. I've used a Garlic Oil, or maybe two, that have not worked at all and then the next one I try does the job overnight. A very important aspect that some people miss is the fact that many other variables in the fishes environment also lead to the conditions which may cause Ich to be less affected by any type of Garlic. Those hobbyists that have tried a single Garlic Oil product without much success, did not go far enough. Besides trying another Garlic Oil, they needed to discover and then change the conditions in their aquarium that were compounding to create an unhealthy, stressful situation for the fish.
Edited by Mark Peterson - May 30 2012 at 10:45am
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hydro phoenix
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Posted: May 30 2012 at 3:44pm |
great news! she has no more ich!
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: June 01 2012 at 7:38pm |
That's awesome. Please forgive me but because of some questionable parameters, I'm very interested in seeing this through. What was the Alkalinity level in a recheck? Lower? And how about pH in the afternoon/evening? hopefully 8.2 or above? With more water movement, is the morning pH above 7.8? Did the new Garlic Oil turn the tide? (pun intended)
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hydro phoenix
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Posted: June 01 2012 at 10:26pm |
I'll have all the answers by tomorrow night.
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hydro phoenix
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Posted: June 02 2012 at 9:57pm |
So this mornings reading was 8.0 and this evenings reading was 8.4. I haven't noticed anything with the garlic yet and the other koralia has been installed. Alk is still high but it's because I have alk in my premixed water for top off.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: June 04 2012 at 11:56am |
That's good. I would stop using the "premixed" top-off water and just use pure RO water. Other wise the Alkalinity will stay at an unwanted, possibly dangerous level. Check Alk every 1-2 weeks and when it falls to the low end, near 175 ppm, dilute the premixed top-off water and use it again. The most likely reason that pH rises to 8.4, which is a little high, is because of high Alk. A wide swing in pH is the cause for stress, especially if the nighttime down swing falls to below 7.9 pH I don't understand what you said about not noticing "anything with the garlic yet". You said the Ich was gone. Did it disappear or just become less? Was that the next day after using a new Garlic Oil product or did the Ich decrease before adding GO? Possibly because of improved nighttime pH via better water flow/gas exchange? Am I making sense?
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hydro phoenix
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Posted: June 05 2012 at 8:31am |
Ich was gone before I could use the garlic oil. I'll dilute the water and start a new batch of RO water. Thanks for your help Mark!
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: June 05 2012 at 11:52am |
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