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chris.rogers
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Posted: January 11 2013 at 5:24pm |
@Lewy: I've already gone LED, and am wholly convinced it's the best option out there. What remains for me is how to decide on the best ratio of colors. I stuck with blue/white on my tank just to start somewhere, but when I setup the home tank I'll be a lot more picky.
@phys: Sounds good, thanks.
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Ils sont fous, ces Romains!
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Lewy
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Posted: January 11 2013 at 6:31pm |
I figure with a T5 fixture you don't just do blue and white, well I don't. I mix different spectums to achive a 'pop' of color in my corals so it stands to reason the same would apply with LEDs. But with LEDs it seems there are potentially more options. I totally understand wanting to see a fixture with the different colors because LEDs aren't like T5's you replace every year and can play with different color options. It seems once you've chosen on the LEDs, you are stuck with them for many years.
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40 gal w/ 20 sump
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phys
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Posted: January 11 2013 at 7:13pm |
If you build your own system of LEDs, its not hard to add or take off LEDs. even some of the production models offer upgradable fixtures so you can do exactly what you're talking about. You also wont be adding mercury to the landfill and glass to the environment. LEDs are pretty much the greenest option of all light sources.
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chris.rogers
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Posted: January 12 2013 at 9:54am |
@phys From what I've seen, most DIY LED setups have the LEDs bonded to some heat sink. It's not impossible but not simplistic to replace a single one, unless you're thinking of a different mounting method I haven't considered? Replacing a strip of LEDs is super easy, but expensive. Agreed that LEDs are the greenest option. When you get a solid manufacturer, and if you can refrain from being nitpicky about the configuration and constantly wanting to change it , then you should have your LEDs in place for about 5 years before having to do anything to change them.
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Ils sont fous, ces Romains!
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phys
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Posted: January 16 2013 at 12:35am |
I always use a two-part epoxy which is good enough to hold it on forever but it easy to pry off with a screwdriver. Just dont use too much!
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phys
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Posted: January 16 2013 at 12:38am |
After getting a power meter, its shown that im only using 160 watts of TOTAL power and the fixture is brighter than the previous 260 watts of PC and t8s that were on before which was only bulb wattage. that didnt include power that was lost through inefficient ballasts.
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chris.rogers
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Posted: January 17 2013 at 1:57pm |
Awesome. :-)
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Ils sont fous, ces Romains!
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Lewy
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Posted: January 17 2013 at 5:06pm |
So wait you use epoxy instead of the heat sink plaster?
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40 gal w/ 20 sump
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Ryanscott
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Posted: January 17 2013 at 5:18pm |
Use a drilled and tapped heatsink from rapid led then all you have to do is UN screw the dead one and replace it . They are pretty cheap and you can get them with splash guards and fans .
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phys
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Posted: January 17 2013 at 5:29pm |
I use epoxy on the outer edges of the star and heat transfer epoxy in the center.
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speyside712
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Posted: January 17 2013 at 6:14pm |
Has anyone tried this one out? the website sure isn't specific about anything, like size or watts per bulb. And being that cheap sure doesn't inspire confidence... lol
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chris.rogers
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Posted: January 17 2013 at 7:14pm |
I'd like to know more about that LED setup before I'd buy. Not saying I wouldn't, but I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I spent money. It just may be worth it, but unless the manufacturer tells you what they put in there, you never know.
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Ils sont fous, ces Romains!
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phys
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Posted: January 17 2013 at 7:48pm |
It uses bridgelux leds... which are not as powerful or efficient as the cree leds on the market. They are also cheaper. If you used those to build a DIY yourself, you'd spend less than that fixture costs. It also looks exactly like the cheap led fixture that's been thrown around for months made in china and sold on ebay.
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