Water test results

No need to worry about that Alk and Ca. They are a little high but are no problem at that level, if there are Coralline Algae, coral, Snails, crabs, bugs and worms to eat it up. Also, the API test kit is not all that accurate(one drop = 1 dKH) so test results may vary. Overall the tank looks good. The Condylactis Anemone is looking good in the pic. Does it shrink and expand daily?

Here is a pic you shared with me (copy the image URL into the box in the upper right top of the image upload window).

Nice pictures on the wall. 

Is that two heaters I see? Kind of unusual. What brand are those? I can't recall ever seeing a heater enclosed in a perforated plastic box. If it was me, I would use only one heater and remove it from the plastic box which, IMO, is inhibiting proper heater function. I would adjust the temperature to 74 to allow for safety if the heater ever got stuck in the ON position.

It appears that the powerheads are positioned to create a circular current. I would suggest trying a different approach. Move them both to the back bottom corner shooting water diagonally up so the two streams meet at the center top water surface. This provides three benefits, 1) it creates some turbulent water movement which animals like, 2) it moves deeper water to the surface which provides good gas exchange for oxygenation and for CO2 expiration to ensure good pH, and 3) it makes the aquarium look less cluttered. 

I would recommend removing the Sand Sifting Star. This sand bed is very clean and is not providing the food a SSStar needs to survive. SSStars are only for rare situations where it's necessary to clean up an old dirty sand bed under the rocks in places where the gravel vacuum could not reach. 

Considering the urchin, an active Urchin is often a hungry urchin. In the wild, Urchins typically move little because food is at their doorstep. Their territory may be as little as a foot or two in diameter. An active hungry Urchin soon runs out of energy and dies in it's futile search for food.

I would suggest doing only 10% monthly water changes. Not that new salt water is bad, it's just an unnecessary expense and time consuming effort which isn't making a positive difference towards the health of the tank. A healthy reef is not bright white. Life is colorful and a healthy sand bed has lots of color. 

That's about it for now from my perspective(I've come back to edit thrice ). 

May the Force be with you.

Aloha,

Mark