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Trevor40 
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 Topic: Potters Wrasse Question
Posted: December 08 2015 at 11:48am |
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I have ordered a Potter's wrasse and want to make sure it has the best chance of survival.
I have read online that these fish do best when skipping the QT process. Thoughts?
If I do skip the QT process then I would be needing to remove my Tricolor wrasse as I fear it will be a bully to the Potter's Wrasse. That tank gets about 3 cubes of frozen food a day so lots of opportunity for food.
I do have a 10G fishless tank set up at my work that is loaded with pods that I could use as a QT tank while I work on feeding it.This tank won't be able to get fed as much since it is smaller.
Also, does anyone know where I can buy live food to sustain it while it transitions to eating frozen?
Edited by Trevor40 - December 08 2015 at 11:48am
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: December 08 2015 at 1:19pm |
Where/what company is it coming from? How was it cared for and how long was it there? Depending on size and what it looks like when it arrives at your home, placing it in a relatively small 10 gal tank and then over to another tank may simply double the stress and likelihood of trouble(see * comment below). Your tank size? Upload a tank pic for comments on environment? Hiding places? Other tankmates? Size? Size of the other Wrasse? Acclimation box/deli container strongly recommended. For more helpful info read the Reefkeeping Tip "Secrets of adding new fish..." 
Aloha, Mark 
* I bought a fairly small Yellow Tang(~1.5") that had just arrived at Fish-4-U for placement in my Dentists 14 gal hang on the wall tank. As is usual for YT's, it had a pinched stomach from lack of eating during transit from the Pacific. The YT was placed for 2 weeks in my 30 gal breeder tank which is packed full of an overgrowth of Caulerpa and coral. It fattened up pretty well so that it could be moved to it's new home with my Dentist last Tuesday. The tankmates are 2 young Ocellaris and 3 young Bangaii, all from A Reef Oasis. At first it was terribly stressed in that crazy shallow tank but began to venture out after 30 mins and when I saw it pick on some algae, I was relieved.  I hope it's doing okay now.
Edited by Mark Peterson - December 08 2015 at 1:28pm
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Trevor40
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Posted: December 08 2015 at 4:23pm |
Where/what company is it coming from?
How was it cared for and how long was it there?
Depending on size and what it looks like when it arrives at your home, placing it in a relatively small 10 gal tank and then over to another tank may simply double the stress and likelihood of trouble(see * comment below).
Your tank size? Upload a tank pic for comments on environment?
Hiding places?
Other tankmates? Size?
Size of the other Wrasse?Ordering it from ReefON, coming from Quality Marine. I have a 93Cube, I have a purple tang, pajama cardinal, 2 clowns, and a large Tricolor Wrasse. I will attempt to remove the tricolor until the Potters is eating and happy. The tank has been set up for about 4 years. The main rock has several hiding places and at least a 2" sandbed in most places. 
Edited by Trevor40 - December 08 2015 at 4:58pm
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: December 09 2015 at 9:52am |
Looks great. I wouldn't worry. If, when the new Wrasse arrives, it looks okay and not too stressed from shipment, I'd use an acclimation container like I describe in the Reefkeeping Tip. Rather than an acclimation box which hangs at the top of the tank use a clear plastic container, top covered with bridal veil, with a rock and some Macroalgae. The algae and rock offers a little hiding for the new fish and makes it sink to the bottom. Having the fish acclimate at the bottom of the tank(perhaps in a back corner), where it will naturally spend much of it's time anyway, also gives the other Wrasse a better opportunity to meet n' greet the newcomer.
Usually, within the first minutes of this method of acclimation, if the Tricolor or other fish show any unusual aggressive behavior, use your own judgement as to whether they will get along long term. Leaving the newcomer in the acclimation container overnight can sometimes allow the old tank inhabitants to become friendly. Remember that aggression is mostly about food and to a lesser portion about getting acquainted(determining who will be the boss). Follow the advice given in the Reefkeeping Tip, overfeed before during and after acclimation. Also if necessary use a stick to show that you are the boss - you are the "Alpha". Aggression may occasionally happen, but by this method it can be dealt with and diffused. If they don't become good friends, at the very least they can be taught to tolerate one another.
Aloha, Mark  |
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Adam Blundell
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Posted: December 09 2015 at 11:22am |
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I can agree with that
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Trevor40
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Posted: December 09 2015 at 3:13pm |
Mark, Thank you for the great advice. Turns out the fish didn't get shipped for some reason and so now I get the pleasure of waiting another week.   I will follow your acclimation advice and hope for the best.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: December 12 2015 at 8:21am |
Oh, and try not to be alarmed, when, after being released from the acclimation container, the Potters is seen for a few moments and then disappears. It most likely dove into the sand bed. It may not reappear for a week or so. This is what they do when they are nervous. FYI, fish can live okay for up to 2 weeks without supplemental feeding, eating a bug, a bit of algae or a tasty clump of bacteria here and there. Just feed the tank well during this time, maybe a little Garlic, in case the Potters happens to snag a piece of frozen food while in bed. 
Aloha, Mark
P.S. I just saw a Tricolor Wrasse a few days ago in another hobbyist's cube tank similar to yours. It was extremely shy. Of course any fish, even a shy one, can become aggressive to a new fish with a similar body shape. Keep the training stick nearby.
Edited by Mark Peterson - December 12 2015 at 8:26am
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