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evan127
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Topic: PAR meter to borrow? Posted: May 15 2016 at 6:28pm |
Does the club or anyone here locally have a PAR meter that can be borrowed?
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Fatman
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Posted: May 16 2016 at 9:08am |
I know the club does not. I don't know of any members that have one.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 16 2016 at 9:09am |
FYI, see this recent thread:
If you're looking for a meter that will accurately read LED's, good luck. Just like digital cameras have a hard time taking pics of our tanks under bluish LED lights, It's my understanding that PAR meters don't give an accurate reading. My recommendation - just eyeball it and do "light acclimation" re: start new lights at pretty low intensity and increase by ~10% every 2 weeks. Why start with such low intensity? Because coral can handle low light for a long time, but can seriously suffer after just one days exposure to LED light that didn't look that bright to our eyes. Lethal sunburn is real. I know. I've done it to more coral than I care to admit.
Aloha, Mark
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: May 16 2016 at 9:21am |
Par meters don't give you an accurate number of actual value but they will give you a valid level of change in intensity. If you want an accurate measure of LED light output you need to measure PUR. Most newer meters can measure both but this all comes at a price.
Start low and make small adjustments each week until you see a negative reaction (pail colors or polyps not reacting as they have before) in some corals. This is a sign that it is too much. Back it down a little and let it ride for a while to see the effect over time.
I generally adjust on a Saturday morning so that I have the weekend to observe the tank immediately after the change and be able to adjust back down if it's too much. That's better than adjusting in the morning and then going to work for 8 hours only to come home and find everything sunburned.
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My ocean. 90g (yup, won it!), 40g, 28g, & 10g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water Tank Thread:
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 16 2016 at 9:58am |
Excellent fine points Jeff. I especially like the idea of increasing lighting on a day where I'll be around to check up on it. Thanks.
Mahalo, Mark
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evan127
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Posted: May 16 2016 at 7:23pm |
Fatman wrote:
I know the club does not. I don't know of any members that have one. | Thanks!
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evan127
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Posted: May 16 2016 at 7:27pm |
Mark Peterson wrote:
FYI, see this recent thread:
If you're looking for a meter that will accurately read LED's, good luck. Just like digital cameras have a hard time taking pics of our tanks under bluish LED lights, It's my understanding that PAR meters don't give an accurate reading. My recommendation - just eyeball it and do "light acclimation" re: start new lights at pretty low intensity and increase by ~10% every 2 weeks. Why start with such low intensity? Because coral can handle low light for a long time, but can seriously suffer after just one days exposure to LED light that didn't look that bright to our eyes. Lethal sunburn is real. I know. I've done it to more coral than I care to admit.
Aloha, Mark ÂÂ
| Eyeball PAR? I'm not really sure why you (and others) think I am trying to acclimate coral to my lighting or that PAR meters don't give accurate numbers under LEDs. I was just curious if anyone knew where I could borrow one locally.
Edited by evan127 - May 16 2016 at 7:29pm
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 17 2016 at 7:49am |
Well excuuuse me. Certainly you noticed, this is a marine aquarium club. You posted in the "Discussion" section where we talk about all things about marine aquariums. There is another section for non-aquarium stuff. It's labeled "Off Topic"
Aloha, Mark
Edited by Mark Peterson - May 17 2016 at 7:52am
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evan127
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Posted: May 17 2016 at 7:56am |
No excuse necessary. I guess I could have asked that in a different way. But isn't this in the appropriate forum? It is aquarium related.
What did you mean by "just eyeball it"?
Is there any empirical evidence that most hobby grade PAR meters don't accurately account for LEDs?
Edited by evan127 - May 17 2016 at 8:01am
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 17 2016 at 9:46am |
When I stand back and take a broad look at an aquarium and compare it's general intensity of light with that of the lighting in the surrounding room, taking into account whether the light in the room is artificial or natural, sunny day or cloudy day, I can see differences and make rough evaluations of whether it's too much or not enough light for coral. Granted, I've seen 1000's and worked on many 100's of aquariums over the years, so I really shouldn't expect other hobbyists to see what I see. Unfortunately, I have not had enough experience with viewing LED intensity and as I will try to explain below, my eyes do not have the ability to do it.
Sounds like you are as skeptical as I am. Yes, I'm pretty sure there is evidence other than my own personal opinion that PAR meters don't accurately register LED intensity. This entire industry of LED's is still evolving, rapidly evolving.
In a light meter, an electronic chip reads the general intensity of light by adding up the entire visible light spectrum, from 380nm to 750nm. I don't know exactly what type of chip is used in a PAR meter, but I believe that these sensors were originally designed for full spectrum light. LED's don't emit a full spectrum.
I am far from understanding it and I could be wrong, but it seems to me that PAR devices probably catch all these peaks, and yet much of the full spectrum is missing. Consequently, the intensity of these relatively few individual peaks adds up to something far less. I'm not sure how to best say this but, my thought is that a PAR meter gives an intensity of way less than the true intensity of the individual peaks. This is why full power LED lights often irritate coral, burning the coral with the intensity of the individual peaks. Is this making sense? Because our eyes generally register the full spectrum, they are just as inadequate as the meter. What looks to us as dim light is actually burning coral.
The chart below, from wikipedia.org shows the FULL SPECTRUM and INTENSITY of sunlight.
Human understanding is minuscule, constantly trying to catch up to the true reality of the universe.
Aloha, Mark
Edited by Mark Peterson - May 17 2016 at 10:16am
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evan127
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Posted: May 17 2016 at 10:39am |
I don't know if I fully understand why ambient outside light is a factor in the determination of corals getting the right amount of light in our reef tanks. We live in Utah. No where near a natural reef where I could see comparing the sun on any given day to that of a captive reef's light source.
Where are you getting this impression that LEDs don't emit a full spectrum?
LEDs that are on the market today seem to be incredibly powerful. I think most people (especially those transitioning from other light sources) underestimate the amount of light coming out of these fixtures due to the narrow, focused light. That's why I think we frequently read forum posts of fellow hobbyists bleaching corals. Someone coming from MHs/T5s that switches to a new LED fixture over their reef, compares the light sources visually and finds coral bleaching. That's why PAR meters are crucial to determining the output of LED fixtures. I think it has less to do with spectrum and more to do with the intensity of these fixtures.
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IronMonkey
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Posted: May 18 2016 at 9:35pm |
The new Apogee MQ-500 does a lot better with LEDs and the harder to read ranges of deep reds. Check out Dr. Bugbee here talking about quantum sensors. I purchased the MQ-500 and am extremely happy with it.
https://youtu.be/Pc_tqLYhITA
Plus, I really like supporting a Utah company :-)
-Adam
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 19 2016 at 8:22am |
Evan,
It looks like we are not understanding each other. Let's get together and visit about this, and see each others tanks too. Please call/text me at 808-345-1049
Aloha, Mark
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evan127
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Posted: May 19 2016 at 9:44am |
IronMonkey wrote:
The new Apogee MQ-500 does a lot better with LEDs and the harder to read ranges of deep reds. Check out Dr. Bugbee here talking about quantum sensors. I purchased the MQ-500 and am extremely happy with it.
https://youtu.be/Pc_tqLYhITA
Plus, I really like supporting a Utah company :-)
-Adam
| Apogee is local company? I'll definitely look at the video. Thanks for the response!
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evan127
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Posted: May 19 2016 at 9:45am |
Mark Peterson wrote:
Evan,
It looks like we are not understanding each other. Let's get together and visit about this, and see each others tanks too. Â Please call/text me at 808-345-1049
Aloha, Mark  | I don't think we are understanding each other. I'll gather my thoughts and post my notes.
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evan127
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Posted: May 23 2016 at 3:02pm |
"When I stand back and take a broad look at an aquarium and compare it's general intensity of light with that of the lighting in the surrounding room, taking into account whether the light in the room is artificial or natural, sunny day or cloudy day, I can see differences and make rough evaluations of whether it's too much or not enough light for coral."
Maybe I'm missing the goal you're trying to portray by directly comparing ambient light to a captive reef aquarium's light source. How does this comparison help determine the amount of PAR over the reef? When comparing light from a multiple bulb T5 fixture (assuming a mixture of different bulb types, number of bulbs, wattage, height over the water line, etc), a metal halide fixture (assuming different wattages, bulb types, number of bulbs, height over the water line, etc) and even a LED fixture where there could be any imaginable combination of intensity and spectrum, how can human eyes determine the amount of light, in this case PAR, being emitted from this vast selection and variations of these light sources? You even state; "Because our eyes generally register the full spectrum, they are just as inadequate as the meter. What looks to us as dim light is actually burning coral." So unless you mean that our eyes can see if corals are getting enough or not enough light based on our viewing of bleaching corals and therefor come to the conclusion there is in fact too much PAR over the reef, I find that claim to be very misleading, contradictory, and an uneducated statement. I find it impossible that one can just "eye ball it", as you've suggested, without the direct result being bleached corals.
"LED's don't emit a full spectrum."
I think that is a very regurgitated and dated response. There are so many different types of fixtures on the market today. So let's take the fixture I chose for example, the EcoTech Radion Gen 3 Pro. I chose it specifically because it does emit a full spectrum, 350nm to 750nm. It is my understanding is that that that is a a full spectrum. The graph you posted even suggests the very claim you were arguing against (a lot of those LEDs are in many popular fixtures on the market today.)
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 24 2016 at 7:25am |
Eyeballing it means to make a rough judgement, but never mind that. I'm just an old fool that was doing aquariums before you were born. I have a sense for this that few people understand. It's sad (and may I say chicken) that you would not call me but rather accuse me in public of being stupid. You have no idea how much I know and with no offense intended, I say that you don't know what you don't know.
In the graphs I posted above it's very plainly exhibited that individual LED's emit only a very tiny peak of energy in their intended spectrum. Even the white LED's do not give full intensity across the complete spectrum as emitted from the sun. If you cannot see that in those graphs then we have no where else to go with this discussion.
Aloha, Mark
Edited by Mark Peterson - May 24 2016 at 7:28am
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evan127
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Posted: May 24 2016 at 8:26am |
Mark Peterson wrote:
Eyeballing it means to make a rough judgement, but never mind that. I'm just an old fool that was doing aquariums before you were born. I have a sense for this that few people understand. It's sad (and may I say chicken) that you would not call me but rather accuse me in public of being stupid. You have no idea how much I know and with no offense intended, I say that you don't know what you don't know.Â
In the graphs I posted above it's very plainly exhibited that individual LED's emit only a very tiny peak of energy in their intended spectrum. Even the white LED's do not give full intensity across the complete spectrum as emitted from the sun. If you cannot see that in those graphs then we have no where else to go with this discussion.
Aloha, Mark Â
| First of all Mark, I'm in no way trying to make you look stupid. However, I am arguing against your points you've made in a public reef aquarium forum regarding the discussion at hand for others to see two differing opinions on the subject. If you are threatened by that, maybe a healthy argument about something so specific in our hobby is not something you should engage in any longer. I've never once resorted in calling you names or insulted your actions. I think this says more about you than it does about me. I believe I am being objective in this discussion, but it seems to me that you have been very unclear and contradictory with your statements, which I am merely trying to obtain clarification by asking specific questions. Mark, please don't belittle or question my intellect again. Evan
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evan127
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Posted: May 24 2016 at 8:30am |
And the white LEDs you are referring to show the relative power of that color/channel/LED. It is still included in the spectrum, even though it's relative power is lesser than that of the other colors. So, full spectrum, no?
Edit: spelling error.
Edited by evan127 - May 24 2016 at 8:31am
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LakeCityReefs
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Posted: May 24 2016 at 8:43am |
Found this (post below) on another site the other day. Thought it was interesting so I downloaded the LUX meter and what I found was pretty cool when I measured full sunlight, cloud cover and indoor light intensities.
Rather than settings. Heres some theory. Target the corals you have and would like to have in your tank. Many corals are High light corals many are med and low. Higher light corals like a brighter and less blue more full spectrum light. Corals usually who prefer lower light prefer more blue, as the deeper you get in the sea the bluer light gets.Many corals will adapt to the in between but the highs just dont like low and the lows just dont like high.You light will produce GREAT spectrum and you can adjust its color to imitate deeper and shallower lighting conditions (as you get familiar with the light you will see a correlation there id bet). So lets talk about intensity. I use a LUX meter to test intensity.($15 on amazon or free app if you dont mind holding your phone over a tank of saltwater.) With a new light I would measure the intensity in lux at the top of the water at full power. I would suspect you will get 35,000 to 50,000 lux.At the surface of the ocean(SPS corals) the light is 60 to 80,000+ lux. So if you have 50,000 lux you can very likely grow SPS quite well near the top of the rocks, and everything else down to the sand bed quite well too. Really low light corals may not like it.If your light at full is only 16 to 25,000 lux of intensity at the top you probably wont be able to grow those high light corals and Id wager many zoas wont do well on the sand bed.By knowing what lighting conditions you can provide you can now choose corals that match those conditions. Just like your water parameters.If you use a par meter and use the same technique it will produce the same results. Par calculates intensity and usable spectrum.Knowing just a little bit about where the coral actually come from really can help in those choices too.Light acclimation is a real thing so keep that in mind. The LFS probably uses way too little light so you don't want to blast them. So creating a an acclimation mode would be cool and then ramp up to what you had.Personally I would always set my expensive light to ramp up to its highest point and work from there.Unless you really love low light corals.The sun&sky is 80,000 to 120,ooo lux and the highest par is 2,000. its likel'y you wont hit those. But your Maxima clam might be happy if you did.
I found that my living room light was hitting right around 120, the sunlight was 140,000, cloud covered sun was at 85,000, and 10" below my LED was at 30,000. when I cranked my LED to 100% it was at 55,000. Unfortunately the free app for your phone isn't something that's going to give you underwater readings but it did give me a starting point and comparison to natural sunlight.
Edited by LakeCityReefs - May 24 2016 at 8:51am
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Here we go again
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