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Chevmaro
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Posted: August 22 2011 at 11:37am |
What? Mark Moved to Hawaii? Lucky guy.
I use LBTR with no such issues.
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Jeffatpm
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Posted: August 23 2011 at 8:34am |
Mark Peterson wrote:
Why would 3ppm water turn into 15ppm water? The Brute holding container could be dissolving into the water! How long have you used that container? How old is it? Could that dissolved substance be what is bothering this particular coral species?This is a serious issue. In case it's not clear, a plastic container should not dissolve into the water. Is it possible that something dropped into the container? How long has it been since it was completely cleaned out? Am I correct in assuming that this container is the source of top-off water? Whatever that 12ppm of impurity is, my guess is that if you eliminate that impurity, the Euphyllia, and everything else, may do much better. At the very least, at this point it's the most glaring problem I can see. I suggest using a different container ASAP and use 3 cups of AC in the aquarium as described above. Let's get that irritating 12ppm of chemical out of the water if we can. If there is no improvement in the general appearance of the entire tank after running the AC for 2 weeks, the next product I would use is made specially for this kind of issue. My preference, Poly Filter is made by www.Poly-Bio-Marine.com. My second choice is Chemi-Pure.
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I'm a little concerned with the bucket as well. It's not my top off water, that comes right from the ro unit. It was cleaned a couple weeks ago. I have a power head in there to keep the water circulating. I'll have to dump it out and have it refill and see what the tds measures then.
Not a bad idea with the AC, I'll have to pick some up today and use it every couple weeks to pull anything out it can.
THANK YOU!
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210 Reef with loads of LEDS Large Fishey Room Located Near Jordan Landing in West Jordan.
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BobC63
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Posted: August 23 2011 at 9:01am |
I also did not realize you were not running carbon.
I'll go a bit further than Mark did, and recommend you pick up some kind of 'reactor' to hold your carbon in. Phosban reactors work great for this (that is what I use).
I would also run the carbon 24/7 and not just once in a while... it can pull out all kinds of organics and keeps the water looking clearer.
Change it out once a month and you should be good.
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- My Current Tank: 65g Starfire (sitting empty for 2+ years) -
* Marine & Reef tanks since 1977 *
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Jeffatpm
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Posted: August 23 2011 at 9:03am |
Bob63 - Even with the GFO and bio pellets?
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210 Reef with loads of LEDS Large Fishey Room Located Near Jordan Landing in West Jordan.
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BobC63
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Posted: August 23 2011 at 9:15am |
Yep.
Carbon adsorbs / removes organics
GFO only works mainly on adsorbing phosphates and a littel on silicates
I use both, mixed together in a Phosban reactor.
Bio pellets, I honestly don't know a ton about them... what are they supposed to remove?
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- My Current Tank: 65g Starfire (sitting empty for 2+ years) -
* Marine & Reef tanks since 1977 *
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: August 23 2011 at 9:41am |
Biopellets provide a source of concentrated food for bacteria which makes the tank ultra sterile of Nitrogen compounds (Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate). This article, Probiotics Demystified is a good read for anyone wishing to expand their knowledge. This method is touted as being great for reducing algae growth, because the bacteria eat the N compounds before algae can eat them, but still, any tank without sufficient herbivores (bugs, snails and fish) for it's situation is sooner or later going to have some kind of algae problem. Granulated Ferric Oxide is not the only product for removing PO4 and silicates. There is also the less expensive Hydrated Alumina. In my experience, the need to remove PO4 is highly over-rated. It's best use is in overstocked fish tanks where feeding is heavy and in tanks where algae has gotten completely out of control. (See Controlling Nuisance Algae) AC removes some chemicals that no other method can remove. AC is a must for every reef aquarium. In typical circumstances, at about 2 weeks, the AC is exhausted and can remove no more. It's benefit from that point is as a home for N reducing bacteria. AC exhaustion/saturation happens a little slower in an "AC Reactor" as it is called, because the water is passing more slowly over the granules.
Edited by Mark Peterson - August 23 2011 at 9:53am
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BobC63
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Posted: August 23 2011 at 9:51am |
Mark Peterson wrote:
Biopellets feed bacteria which makes the tank ultra sterile of Nitrogen compounds (Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate). This method is touted as being great for reducing algae growth, because the bacteria eat the N compounds before algae can eat them, but still, any tank without sufficient herbivores (bugs, snails and fish) for it's situation is sooner or later going to have some kind of algae problem.
Granulated Ferric Oxide is not the only product for removing PO4 and silicates. There is also the less expensive Hydrated Alumina. In my experience, the need to remove PO4 is highly over-rated.
AC removes some chemicals that no other method can remove. AC is a must for every reef aquarium. In typical circumstances, at about 2 weeks, the AC is exhausted and can remove no more. It's benefit from that point is as a home for N reducing bacteria. AC exhaustion/saturation happens a little slower in an "AC Reactor" as it is called, because the water is passing more slowly over the granules.
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OK so the "bio-pellets" are just a type of Hiatt pellet... got it
Honestly I wouldn't bother with them... between your LR / LS for nitrate reduction, and having adequate snails / crabs for algae removal, iMO you shouldn't need any 'biopellets'...
And, in any event, they won;t do anything to remove phophates or other contaminants.
And I agree with Mark that you should be running carbon on every reef tank... that's why I just assumed that you were.
I also agree that pO4 removal is usually as he said "overrated"; but in this case your complaint is elevated pO4 levels - so I think it is warranted here.
I tried the aluminum stuff but didn't like it. Even though it is cheaper, from my experience it got exhausted quicker than the GFO and I needed to change it out more often.
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- My Current Tank: 65g Starfire (sitting empty for 2+ years) -
* Marine & Reef tanks since 1977 *
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: August 23 2011 at 9:57am |
I agree with Bob. The lack of running AC, may point to the simple fact that the Euphyllia coral do not like the smell/feel of the water. It could be as simple as that. AC will make the water nice for everyone to play in. Aleopathy - chemical warfare between coral. AC removes this problem. FYI, PO4 testing can be completely inaccurate. The PO4 test just completed surprisingly came up zero so we cannot be certain about the true levels. Slightly elevated PO4 levels are not a problem for LPS, I'm confident that PO4 is not the reason for the Euphyllia's decline. Look at the other LPS in the tank that are doing just fine. Water changes are probably a contributing factor to the Euphyllia issue. If when emptying the container, no residue is found, then the first item to look at is the powerhead. A powerhead sitting 24/7 in purified water will start to dissolve. How old is the Powerhead? I would keep the powerhead out of the water except when in use. How old is the plastic Brute container? At a point in time, plastic begins to deteriorate. I'd look next at using a new container. All containers must be rinsed before use. There are chemicals used to help release the plastic item from the mold in the manufacturing process. Those chemicals are rinsed off in warm water. Hope this helps.
Edited by Mark Peterson - August 23 2011 at 10:28am
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Jeffatpm
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Posted: August 23 2011 at 1:03pm |
It definitely does, Thank You everyone, i'll check my water in the brute before I mix salt in to ensure it is where it needs to be. I got AC today and am going to get that in.
I agree my frogspawn and hammers are doing great, This problem with the euphyllia's and other sps that I have gotten in the past. This has been what I've tried to work toward correcting. I want to add sps to the tank but all the pieces I've boughten to try, end up dying.
Maybe these couple steps and a little more time I hopefully won't have this problem anymore - any other tips for sps tanks(ultimately it'll be mixed reef tank.)
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210 Reef with loads of LEDS Large Fishey Room Located Near Jordan Landing in West Jordan.
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ReefdUp
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Posted: August 23 2011 at 4:50pm |
Avoid the alumina phosphate remover...it was shown to cause problems in a UK study a few years back.
Why in the world are we focusing on a Brute trashcan that the RO & salt are mixed in?! First off, most of the Brute trashcans we all use in the hobby are rated as "food safe", and even when they aren't, the process and plastic ingredient formulas are the same...the personnel just are more careful with things like hair nets. So, unless the owner of said trashcan was storing his vehicle's used oil in it, it's probably ok.
Second, the owner mixes salt with the RO water. I'm willing to bet there's salt residue buried into the plastic. So what?! Unless he was using a salt mix with high nitrates/nitrites/etc, then the bucket shouldn't be leaching. I'd test the salt water for nitrates/phosphates.
As a weird sidenote, I had a friend who had a reef tank with problems she couldn't figure out...until she tested her makeup water. It was extremely high in ammonia. Turns out...one of her animals (can't remember if it was a cat or dog) was peeing into the bucket. Crazy what a lid will fix.
Normal kit phosphate tests are extremely inaccurate. They only test for inorganic phosphates...not organic phosphates. (The kits that test for organic phosphates are $$$ and not as easy to use.) Plus, algae use the inorganic phosphates...so if you have a lot of algae growing, you probably had a lot of inorganic phosphates if your test is low. GFO will remove the inorganic phosphates. But, all that that tells you nothing about your organic phosphates. GFO will not bind organic phosphates - best course of removal is through skimming.
Considering it's well shown that inorganic phosphates inhibit calcification in corals (especially SPS) and act as a fuel to algae...I don't believe phosphate removal is "overrated". Some phosphate is good...too much is bad.
Work on your phosphates and carbon. I run GFO and carbon in a reactor...separately (as they should be since they require different flow.) I know you said your skimmer is about maxing out, but maybe try running a bit more wet. You may need to cut back on feeding or change what you feed since fish foods contain a fair chunk of phosphates. Increase your water changes...as long as your water/salt isn't a source of phosphates/nitrates. Bad batches of salt do exist.
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www.reefdup.com Diving since 2009, reefkeeping since 2007, & fishkeeping since 1987 200g, 75g, & 15g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: August 24 2011 at 10:21am |
Jeffatpm said, "my frogspawn and hammers are doing great" Wait a minute, those are Euphyllia. I must have missed something. SPS die in this tank. I believe I got that. Tell me again which coral are doing poorly. Okay, I went back to the video and pics. I see that it is only the Candy Canes. Each coral has it's own sensitivity to pollution and odd chemicals. I've seen Candy Cane that survived where Frogspawn perished. This is definitely pointing to some odd chemical in the water. I'm even more certain that the water used for water changes is the culprit. AC should help clear it out of the tank but I'd still use one Poly Filter pad just to be sure. Earlier I gave you a link to the best price.
Reef'd Up said, "Why in the world are we focusing on a Brute trashcan that the RO & salt are mixed in?!" This was already discussed. You may want to go back and read the entire thread.
Edited by Mark Peterson - August 24 2011 at 12:09pm
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