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    Posted: September 08 2011 at 9:59pm
I've got green hair algae taking over.. I've got phosguard in the sump, have a lawnmower blenny, added a sea hare, shut off lights for a couple days, trimmed the hair back, left the lights on the sump with macroalgae on 24/7, and still it's just getting worse. Up till this point, I haven't been running a skimmer as I can't get the one I have working. Someone has suggested that this could be contributing to the problem. I've been planning on picking up a new skimmer at the end of next week. Do you think that is contributing? I'm sure I'm low on snails, and will be purchasing some this week..

What else can I do to cut back on the algae and keep it from coming back?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jwoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 08 2011 at 10:05pm
How old are your lights? What are the exact levels in your tank of phosphates and nitrates? How many snails do you have and how large is your tank? Do you use RO water? How many times a week do you feed and what's a "typical" feeding look like? How many fish do you have?
None at the moment
Soon: 72 Gallon Bowfront
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hydro phoenix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 08 2011 at 10:13pm
ditto^
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Haley'sfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 08 2011 at 10:26pm
What size tank? Do you have any tangs? I'm sure you have heard this, but be careful with the sea hare.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Quickness Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 09 2011 at 12:01am
Turbo snails do wonders with some of this stuff also.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 09 2011 at 12:25am
I have a 72 gallon bowfront.

Lights are just a couple months old..

Phosphates: 0.025 Nitrates: 0 (Probably low because the algae is consuming it)

Yes, I top off with RO water.

Like I said, I know that I am low on snails, but I do have a 4 rather large mexican turbos in addition to a handful (5 to 10) each of astrea, porcelain, nassarius, cerith, and nerite snails. I have a load of 30 astreas on the way.

I've switched to feeding a couple pinches of low phosphorous flake food once per day, making sure that most of it is eaten by the fish or picked up by crabs. The majority of it gets eaten. I was formerly feeding frozen shrimp every other day.

Currently there are 6 fish. Two small clowns, yellow tang, flame hawk, sixline wrasse, lawnmower blenny.

I hadn't heard anything negative about the sea hare other than when it runs out of algae it's a goner so be ready to take it back to where I got it. At the rate we're going, he'll never run out of food. He doesn't seem to be eating all that much...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 09 2011 at 10:39am
I'm sorry to hear of your algae issue.Cry
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but Sea Hares are hit and miss. Half the time they die before doing any good.

Sounds like you already sensed it. SNAILS ARE THE KEY. The way to prevent nuisance algae in the first place is to ensure there are enough herbivores in the tank. Snails are major herbivores. Algae is all they eat. Having a sufficient number of snails is extremely important. I cannot overemphasize that point. The best snails are of three types:
Astrea
Cerith
Margarita
arthuriv here on the MB usually has snails for sale at a decent price.

In your tank there are two fish that are making it difficult. I wrote an article about this in one of the Sea Star Newsletters. The Hawkfish and the Wrasse eat Amphipods and Copepods. These little bugs eat algae when it is just a sprout, before you can see it. A tank with these fish needs special care to prevent algae problems and that's where the snails come in. Do I need to repeat? GET MORE SNAILS Wink

There is more that can be done. Now that there is an out of control problem with hair algae, if you can please post a pic, we can tell you what steps are needed to more quickly eliminate the clumps of algae that would take too long for snails to eat. The snails mentioned above do not care too much for large clumps of hair algae. There are ways to speed it up but a pic would help us to see which direction to go. Smile

You're not alone. Most new hobbyists encounter this problem. I had it in spades. You've probably read my story: http://garf.org/ugly.html


Edited by Mark Peterson - September 09 2011 at 10:45am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bur01014 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 09 2011 at 11:54am
Add GFO, skim wetter, reduce duration pink and daylight bulbs are on, feed only twice a week, rinse food in RO water before feeding, check your RO TDS and change your membrane and other components if needed, stop dosing anything other than big three (alk, cal, mg), baster rocks twice weekly, take a tooth brush to rocks during water changes, and in the meantime don't fret over it....after these changes the algae will soon brown and become so brittle it will fall from the rocks....

If you do these things....don't expect results for at least 3-4 weeks....final eradication will come in 6 weeks.


Most people go out and get all these marine animals, snails, etc. to solve the problem....this isn't going to happen, they will help in the final stages of clean up, but will only act as a band-aid that is much too small for a over sized wound....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bur01014 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 09 2011 at 12:00pm
sorry I was too lazy to read your follow-up post until now....for modifications for my suggestions in your situation...

First-
if you are running phosguard it needs to be in a reactor....in a bag in a high flow area of the sump is less effective....in addition, with the issue you are having, it is likely being exhausted every couple days, so replace it every 3 days for the next 2 weeks, then replace once a week, then when GHA is gone, replace monthly or so for maintenance, but get a reactor...they are cheap!

Next-
Ditch the flake food....flake foods have been tested and hold the highest amount of phosphates of all foods available for fish....I'd suggest a high quality frozen food that is feed only twice weekly, but is rinsed before hand with RO water....don't worry your fish you rely upon the tank to feed on the naturally occurring food supply, plus fish can be just fine eating much less than we think.

Next-
Get a skimmer.....perhaps borrow one....there great at preventing these algae issues, but by no means are they a 100% cure if you're overfeeding, etc.

Good luck



Edited by bur01014 - September 09 2011 at 12:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobC63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 09 2011 at 1:28pm
Just some clarifications, all IMO (of course) Wink
 
Snails are great and really almost a MUST for a reef tank, but they are a preventative against algae. If you have strands and gobs of algae already in the tank, snails won't do jack for that...
 
Same for most fish. Great at nibbling off algae "haze", but they generally won't chow down on long strands because apparently most hair algaes develop a bad taste when they get long. I had a Foxface once that didn't care and ate 5" long algae strands like it was spaghetti - but that is rare.
 
IMO, GFO (Granulated Ferric Oxide) works better than Phosguard (which is alumina resin) and is actually cheaper to use (costs a little more but you use less) and I agree you really should use a reactor, just so mush more efficient.
 
Make sure you you have alot of 'good' macro algaes like chaeto and / or caulerpa in your refugium - under a decent light - so that the good algae grows and sucks up the available nutrients to help starve out the bad algae.
 
Skimmer, again IMO basically a MUST for a reef tank (especially SPS heavy tanks) unless it is a softie - only tank or a small tank where water changes alone are sufficient to remove nutrients (like a nano tank or maybe a 40g tank or smaller)...
 
 
 
Now, to actually get rid of the hair algae you already have...
 
1) Manually pull / yank out all that you can by hand. Use a toothbrush to gently scrub stubborn areas. Don't worry if some if the little pieces just float around; your filter sock will filter them out
 
2) Increase the amount of PO4 remover you are using (switch to GFO next time you run out) and use a reactor if possible.
 
3) Change your media every few days first couple of weeks.
 
4) Feed the fish a little less. Skim a little wetter. Do a water change of 10% or so every 2 weeks for 2 months, then 10% per month.
 
5) Greatly increase the amount of snails and hermits... 1 per gallon is not too many; even 2 per gallon is not too many. They are little creatures and do not eat alot per snail or crab - You need to get alot of them to be effective. I have approx 120 snails and another 150 hermits total in my 93 Cube now.
 
 
- My Current Tank: 65g Starfire (sitting empty for 2+ years) -

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 09 2011 at 5:41pm
I agree with pretty much everything that bur01014 and Bob said. Algae killers. Shocked LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russianrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 09 2011 at 10:32pm
I can echo the importance of adding macroalgae to the sump. I have been struggling with cyano for almost a year and now that I have changed do an RDP refugium, all the nasty algae is disappearing. Chaeto and caulerpa are AWESOME!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ann_A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 10 2011 at 6:03pm
+1 to that! ^

I've had major green hair algae problems since I first started my tank, but once I added my refugium, and got myself an appropriate CUC, the algae pretty much disappeared. Right now, though I am dealing with a bad cyano outbreak, but that is mainly because:

1) my skimmer (one of the crap nano cube ones) is no longer running...my doing
2) insufficient CUC until very recently
3) need to replace my bulb and
4) poor water flow in some areas of the tank

Now that these things have mostly been fixed, with the exception of replacing the light, the cyano is starting to die off, and coralline algae is coming back. Another thing that I noticed when I had bad hair algae, is that, as mostly everyone has said, the snails don't go for the large clumps and long strings of algae. They will eat the small sprouts that, if at all visible to you, are just the beginnings of algal growth. If you can, just tank your hand and rip off as much of the algae as you can, and discard it. Then, i would suggest scrubbing the rocks down, you can just take your hand and rub while applying a bit of pressure, if you can't take the rocks out of the tank. This is what I did, plus I got a TON of snails, and setup a refugium in the sump of my nano cube, which now has about 2-3lbs of live rock rubble, chaeto, caulerpa, ulva, and 5 red mangrove sprouts. Though the fuge hasn't been running long, nor have I had my snails for very long, but literally the algae sprouts and cyano had majorly decreased overnight.

Anyways, here are my main suggestions:
1) Get More SNAILS! (not hermits...they kill the snails, even if they are somewhat good on the algae)
2) Make sure your refugium is cleaned out, so that there isn't a large build up of detritus, or nuisance algae, so that the refugium will be as effective and efficient as possible
3) Do regular water changes, however don't do them too often as, while you are removing nitrates and phosphates, you are also restoring other elements and nutrients the algae will use...the macros should take care of most of your nitrates and phosphates, given the time
4) Be patient as none of these things will instantly make it disappear, but it should definitely help take care of the problem

Hope this helped, and of course, these are only things that I suggest from my own experience, and there may be other ways of doing things that are just as good, or better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 11 2011 at 10:45am
Good stuff Ann_A Thumbs Up

I believe in this case though, Shad's tank does have an RDP Refugium working as it should.

Once hair algae starts to bloom it's hard to stop it, in spite of all the proper filtration the tank may have. The hair algae simply steals the nutrients from the existing biofiltration. Angry

BTW, while manually brushing hair algae can be a useful exercise, I would rarely suggest removing more than a few pieces of LR from the water to brush it off. Removing it from the water allows air into the pores of the rock which has a hard time escaping from those pores. It begins a die and decay cycle. The resulting pollution feeds the algae you are trying to eliminate.

This algae started small and may have surprised you upon realizing it was out of control. Patience is key to maintaining sanity while the algae decreases per your vigilant efforts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ann_A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 11 2011 at 11:30am
Originally posted by Mark Peterson Mark Peterson wrote:

Good stuff Ann_A Thumbs UpI believe in this case though, Shad's tank does have an RDP Refugium working as it should.Once hair algae starts to bloom it's hard to stop it, in spite of all the proper filtration the tank may have. The hair algae simply steals the nutrients from the existing biofiltration. AngryBTW, while manually brushing hair algae can be a useful exercise, I would rarely suggest removing more than a few pieces of LR from the water to brush it off. Removing it from the water allows air into the pores of the rock which has a hard time escaping from those pores. It begins a die and decay cycle. The resulting pollution feeds the algae you are trying to eliminate.This algae started small and may have surprised you upon realizing it was out of control. Patience is key to maintaining sanity while the algae decreases per your vigilant efforts.



Thanks. Well that pretty much covers it, I'd been dealing with my hair algae for about 7 months before my tank finally matured enough to have it start disappearing. I still get some, but I think it's because of my light...I need to replace the bulb.

Anyways, that is great advice, Mark...I never knew that taking the rock out could be so bad, but then again I haven't ever tried it...I'm too chicken to upset my reef that much. Lol

Let us know how things are turning out, and if there's anything else we can help with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 15 2011 at 3:00pm
Thanks everyone for the input.. As Mark mentioned I DO have a fuge full of cheato, caulerpa, & grape algae... I think my largest downfall was a lack of snails. I should have that resolved today or tomorrow as I'm getting a ton of snails from Arthur.. I've been spending a few minutes each night scrubbing rocks under water with a toothbrush, then netting as much of the loose stuff as I possibly can. I hope to have a skimmer soon, and I will look into a reactor as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 15 2011 at 7:56pm
Are you running the Refugium light 24/7 and is the Refugium algae growing well enough to the point that you have harvested some of it? FYI, if the Refugium completely fills up with algae, it can't grow as well and that allows algae to grow better in the main tank.

My experience has been, when there are sufficient herbivores, algae should never be a problem no matter what light is illuminating the tank. I have powerful sunlight illuminating my tanks but I typically don't have algae problems because I watch the herbivores to make sure they are eating the algae. From time to time a spot of hair algae will seem to be missed. That's when manual attention is needed, even to the point of either turning the rock over or breaking off the part of the rock which the snails are avoiding.

I have noticed over the years that people with algae problems either did not know about the great need or simply neglected to add more snails to their tank. So at the same time that they add a lot of snails they also pay more attention to maintenance, including removing the algae, and they hear that it will help to change their lights.

My point is this: The idea that changing the lights made much difference was just a coincidence. I don't know if this makes sense to you but it does to me. I've seen it so many times. For my own tanks, or others that I have control over, I've never bothered changing lights during an algae "situation". It was never the lights. It was always the increase of herbivores. I'm not saying that lighting is never a factor. It's just a smaller factor than is generally realized.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 15 2011 at 9:30pm
Yes, I've been running the fuge light 24/7 for weeks. I have a plant growing bulb in there now. I haven't had to trim it back, but it has grown some..
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