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    Posted: September 18 2011 at 1:13pm
The Ro system i got was used with new filters ect.
The hoses are not color coded and i can not figure out which one is the waste .
It is a threee stage ro with the tube filter on top.
Anybody familiar with this set up?
Post pict if needed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 19 2011 at 12:35pm
The "tube filter on top" is probably the Membrane housing.
On many membranes housings the fitting which extends out like a little protrusion is the waste line.

If the flow restrictor is already installed inline, that's the waste line.

If you don't mind getting a little wet, or if you can run both lines to the sink, just hook it up and see which line runs the fastest. That's the waste.

If you need to post a pic for clarification, feel free to call me and I'll identify it for you while I'm looking at the pic.

After running it for 15-30 minutes, check the TDS of the purified water to be sure that the membrane is good. Up to 10 ppm is excellent. 10 to 30 ppm is acceptable but if it's at 30 ppm, I'd check it from time to time. Slowly climbing past 30 ppm means it's time to install a new membrane.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote builderofdreams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 19 2011 at 1:12pm
Here are some pics of how it is currently set up.
Water is coming into filter on the left.Out on the filter right,waste is coming out of the black hose on the top membrane.Not 100% sure where to put the water into the unit.No flow restricter.
been running since 3 pm yesterday and there is only about 3 gallons of water made.


Edited by builderofdreams - September 19 2011 at 2:00pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 19 2011 at 2:10pm
I can't see all the lines coming and going but I should be able to figure it out. Looks like an auto shut-off valve is mixed in there too. Are you planning to hook this up to a float valve in the sump? If not, you could remove the auto shut-off valve for later use.

3 gals of pure water? Way too little. Have you checked it's TDS? Results?
How much waste water during that same time period?

The water should enter the cartridge on the left, but that clear vinyl tubing is not going to work for long. It needs to be stiff 1/4" poly tubing to handle the pressure.

It appears that purified water will exit from the cartridge on the right. The clear vinyl tubing there is okay unless you are going to hook it into a float valve in the sump. Then it will also need to be poly tubing just like the input side.

I see new filters in all three cartridges, but do I see water leaking from the cartridges. Do they have the proper "O" ring seals inside or do they need to be tightened?


If you want to call me at my work # 888-633-9269 x706 I can talk you through it.


Edited by Mark Peterson - September 19 2011 at 2:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote builderofdreams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 19 2011 at 5:14pm
Hooked it up right just did not know i had to restrict the waste.
No not leaking i was messing with it.
The clear vynyl is ridgid.Just clear.
Thanks for all the help today Mark.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote laynframe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 19 2011 at 5:16pm
Looks like the membrane is bypassed to me. I can see the supply going in the left side then a jumper line going to the next canister, then out the right. Im not seeing how the upper membrane is plumbed. Also a huge thing is what is your homes incoming water pressure. Some units wont produce a lot of water do to low house pressure and a pump may be needed here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 19 2011 at 5:35pm
Is there an inline flow restricter then? If there isn't one, by far the easiest thing to do is buy a quick disconnect valve at the hardware store They have quick disconnect on both sides and usually have a blue handle. Cost about $6. Place it inline on the waste side and turn it until the amount of water flowing out of the purified water line is as fast as possible. This adjustable control of the waste water is how to fine tune the maximum output of purified water, no matter what gph rating the membrane.

To answer laynframe/Tony's concern, I believe the source water is coming out of the middle canister and going in and out of the auto shut-of, hidden behind the membrane. Then the purified water line goes from the membrane, from the port next to the black waste line, and over to the auto shut-off valve. It goes in and out of there and back over to the right side canister where a final AC rinse makes the water taste as good as possible. That final filter is not really that necessary for most RO units. The prefilter AC plus the RO membrane do a great job.

The way the auto shut-off works is when the purified water is stopped by the float valve, pressure builds up to something like 10-20 psi. This pressure pushes on a diaphragm which closes off the source water(40-80 psi). This allows the float valve in the sump to work easier and extends it's life.


Edited by Mark Peterson - September 19 2011 at 5:42pm
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