Re:Test Kits

Aloha Gary,

I don't check pH, but here is a digital pH monitor for $10 http://www.amazon.com/Generic-MAGNUM_MEDIA-PH-107a-Digital-Tester/dp/B0054IQCB4

The electronic Alkalinity meters are pricey, but pH doesn't matter if you are checking Alkalinity.  Why is that? Because pH typically follows Alk so just test Alk and forget pH (except for a Calcium Reactor where it's good to keep an eye on effluent pH).

On all the Alk tests you have to watch for the color change. Do you use reading glasses? I'd be lost without the $7 reading glasses I get at Walmart. If you are color blind that's a different story and I guess either a color chart or another person would be the key.

Oh, I should mention that the only problems we ever see with pH being low when Alk is good is when the tank is covered with a lid. Then it's suffocating for fresh air. Opening the top to the air and making sure there is good water circulation allows the pH to be normal. Moving water from bottom to top is best.

The other test that is just as important as Alk and way more important than pH is Calcium. Again you have to watch for the color change. What Ca test are you using?

Mahalo,
Mark

I agree 100% with what Mark has said about Alk & Cal, test Alk and Cal, in fact thats pretty much all I test (other than mag every 3 months or so). 8.2 is more than fine for ph and as your tank consumes alk & cal your ph will drop in relation to the alk drop (ph buffer is usually just soda ash (Sodium carbonate ~ Alk). Are you dosing cal? What are your Nitrates at? I also dont see why you would shut off GFO or carbon...carbon wont do much if anything for algea and while GFO isnt needed, if you are having phosphate issues it can help. Do you have a sump, refugium, other algea like chaeto or calurpa? Sorry too many questions haha. P.S. I use API and Red Sea, Red Sea is more time consuming but depending on the test probably more accurate.

Edited by Bryce - May 29 2013 at 5:32pm

GFO should be changed when ur phosphates get too high, thats different for every tank (I have read it can be exhausted in a day or last 3 months depending on what level of phosphates exist or are added to the tank). Carbon, I change about once a month, or when I can see (water taken out of tank during water change has noticable yellow tinge to it) or smell the need to do so.

K was going to make it a point to read the articles in the tips section. Thanks for the help.. I do have two crabs and two snails in the refugium.. Four crabs, three snails and a emerald crab.. Probably going to restock the snails and get another emerald crab..

I might be adding in a little late.  

1. With your question on test kit.  I have been using the RedSea Pro kit for about a 7 months now and really like it.  For the color change you are not looking at the color to tell what your resalts are.  When the color changes you just see how much product you have used and you then look to the chart.  With this kit I can to cal, alk, and mag test in under 10 minutes.  Here is the like and it is about $50 for all 3 and when your run low it can be refilled with our a full order. 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/red-sea-reef-foundation-pro-multi-test-kit-ca-alk-mg.html

 

2. PH.  If you are still having problems with your PH Limewater can help a lot. With ph issues you could have another issue that is giving you problems.  Mark did touch on it a little; FRESH AIR when it starts getting warm you will close your window and turn on your ac to keep your house cool.  This can starve your tank of fresh air.   I had this problem last year myself about this same time of the year.  I did try Limewater and it did help but what helped the most is a small pipe tied in to my skimmer run out side for fresh air.  That one change helped my tank more than I thought it would.   Make sure you read up on limewater before you use it.  Also you can use pickling lime from Wal-Mart will cost you $2-$5 depending on the store. here is the link http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-01/rhf/index.php

 

Hope this helps.