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Mark Peterson
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Posted: August 26 2013 at 8:34pm |
Basically, the filtration occurs in the LS, LR, Algae and LW. It is all about biology. Please feel free to read the WMAS Reefkeeping Tips thread to get a good understanding of how to set up an affordable reef tank to make use of that biology. As an example, the tank in the pic above was just 3 months old at the time. An inexpensive HOB filter (found at the DI was used just 2 weeks/month to run AC. How many pieces of equipment can you see? There are just two small powerheads. That was 10 years ago. Today we have stream pumps that are awesome. I use only one stream powerhead, placed at the bottom shooting up to the top. See the pic below. The best things to test for are Salinity (hydrometer - $11) and Temperature (stick on thermometer -$2). After that, but not needed for at least two months, is to know the levels of Alkalinity and Calcium. Though the hobby in general speaks of the nitrogen cycle of Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate, IMO it's not worth buying those test kits for the short time we might use them and if the "affordable reef aquarium" method is followed, there will be almost no cycle to worry about. Several times you have mentioned that you are on a tight budget. Most of your reading will be about how to spend money on equipment. There are many that want your money and most of us enjoy having the stuff that money can buy. Please don't misunderstand my intentions. I'm a bit of a cowboy reefkeeper. I find enjoyment in showing hobbyists how it can be done very nicely on a simple budget. Aloha, Mark 808-345-1049 anytime One of my most recent tanks at set up. Notice the wave action, visible in this still photo as a curvy water line. This is the effect of a single $20 stream pump(Maxijet 1200 purchased online) in a 40 gal breeder (with the top brace ripped off ). BTW, I love using the sun for lighting. Everything does so much better in the sun.
Edited by Mark Peterson - August 27 2013 at 7:06am
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Teknik777
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Posted: August 26 2013 at 10:58pm |
I agree let it cycle and don't worry about testing for nitrates. I do test for phosphates every once and a while with a Hanna checker but was in the hobby many years with a successful reef tank before I made a trade for one. I really like the reef foundation test kits by red sea. you can buy refills for 75 tests for like 12 bucks. this will test for alk, cal, and mag. salinity should be tested with a refractometer. go to bulkreefsupply.com and look at these products. I started having success when I started dosing two part and learning about the different levels and testing for them. hope this helps
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220 G SPS Display.
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phys
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Posted: August 27 2013 at 1:00am |
The tests to have are definitely alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, and phosphates. The others will just be a waste after initial set up. Want a few? I have some for you lol.
Macro algae in small tanks will be just as helpful as a skimmer, so use both! I'd suggest getting some chaetomorpha and caulerpa... The caulerpa grows quick to help suck up the baddies fast and the chaeto will help keep anything the caulerpa releases in check. Need chaeto? Come get some lol. I always have some on hand. Its easier to start off with the right stuff than it is to catch up after using the wrong stuff first.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: August 27 2013 at 7:37am |
This new guy has a limited budget. Refractometers are awesome but not cheap. A
new Hydrometer is no more than $12 and is plenty accurate. Keep it clean
with the occasional vinegar bath and it will last forever. I clean up used Hydrometers and give them away to new hobbyists. Compare the Hydrometer
reading to a known salinity just once and it will always be accurate
enough for any reef aquarium salinity testing.
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Trevor40
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Posted: August 27 2013 at 10:24am |
Blake, I live in Provo and if you ever want to stop by and see my setup or have any questions let me know.
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Call or Text (801)834-3119
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Blake
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Posted: August 27 2013 at 1:14pm |
This has been great help! So I now fixin to get everything together that I'd need and price things out. The hydrometer sounds good as a inexpensive way to start :) I think I'll stick with that for now. Here is what else I need and I was wondering if people had suggestions as where to get. -lighting -heater -power filter -power head(s)
Lighting is probably one thing I don't mind spending a little extra on just because I feel like good lighting can make the tank look good here is what I was looking at coralife t5 HO Lunar 30"
Heater I really have no idea what to look for in this I dont mind getting on cheap from this forum. suggestions?
Power Filter: here is the one I was looking at Penguin BIO-Wheele 200. Again if I can get one used, I'm happy with that :)
Power Head(s) No idea here. I'm open to suggestions and again, don't mind buying a used one from someone.
I also noticed that live rock is about 6.99 a pound. Its a little more than I thought. I've herd something about doing a mix of live and dry rock? Any suggestions on how about I should go buying rock? I don't mind buying all live it is a better choice and gets me up and running.
Also, we were actually looking on going to buy substrate, rock and water today just to get things started. but we might be jumping the gun. Is there anything I can start doing now or do I need to wait for my light, filter, etc to be in possession first? Thanks for all the help to everyone. It's be super great!!
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: August 27 2013 at 1:34pm |
It seems to me from what you are asking, that you have not yet read the Reefkeeping Tips thread on how to set up an affordable reef aquarium using inexpensive local materials. 1. For lighting I recommend sunlight in an east/south facing window. It's perfect light for cheap. For supplemental lighting (for viewing when the sun goes down), get something used from here on the forum. 2. A heater is not needed until winter, if ever. 3. There will be no need for a HOB filter for at least 3 months. DO NOT use a biowheel HOB filter. Those may work for freshwater but the biowheel is a catastrophe in a reef tank. 4. Maxijet powerheads are the best for the money. I would get a MJ1200 and place it down at the bottom shooting up, but not with the stream/propeller attachment. That would be too much flow for a 30 gal. Save the propeller for later use in a larger tank. 5. This was not on your list but prepare yourself for the amount of snails you will need to keep algae in check. I would budget 30 snails (one per gal) at $1 each and plan on replenishing them every 4-6 months. Please feel free to call if you would like help setting up a beautiful reef aquarium on a budget. Aloha, Mark 808-345-1049 call/text anytime
Edited by Mark Peterson - August 27 2013 at 1:36pm
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Blake
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Posted: August 27 2013 at 1:40pm |
Mark! Your right. I totally forgot you put that link in your post. I will go read that Reefkeeping Tips thread.
As far as sun light. How close to the window and how much direct sunlight (if any) does it need to have? I'm a renter with other room mates and I'm not sure I'll be able to get it in an area close to a window. But I wil see. Will this method support corals?
Good to know abuot getting snails. Thank you! I've also herd I need to get hermit crabs for the live rock?
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: August 27 2013 at 2:06pm |
It's in that thread!
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Blake
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Posted: August 27 2013 at 2:25pm |
ha, awkward. Thanks
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AcroNem
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Posted: August 27 2013 at 5:16pm |
Haha like I said you'll get plenty of information if you ask on this forum! Also Blake, I'm just in Orem and have many a time been asked to come check out (and even set up) new tanks I'm at your disposal with anything you need help with :)
regarding your question about snails and hermit crabs; you don't need them specifically for live rock, you need them to keep it clean and to eat anything that you don't want just sitting and rotting at the bottom of your tank. they are excellent and essential scavengers. IF you're wanting any used equipment I'd be happy to just give it to you, I maintain a tank in my parents house aside from my other ones and will be replacing the filter soon if you'd like it? also have a few other random things.
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150G mixed reef, growing coral farm. Thirteenth year keeping reefs, always here to talk fish. 801-850-7577.
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Blake
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Posted: August 29 2013 at 1:25pm |
I posted this on another thread, but I seemed to get more of response here, so I thought Id double check. I think I'm going to get 2 Korlia 750's for my tank. So a total of 1500 gph plus my 265gph canister filter. Would this be to much flow? My understanding is it would be a good flow to allow me to get most all croals. Thanks for the input
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: August 29 2013 at 1:33pm |
Blake I think part of the confusion is your use of pump where you should be using powerhead. Technically powerheads are pumps but they only move water inside the tank and not having to "pump" water, under pressure, over the side of the tank or back to the tank from a sump.
Will you be running the Koralias on a wave maker, or just full on all the time? If both full on all the time then that is way too much flow. I have a 28G and I run 3 koralia nano's in it but they are on a wavemaker and only two of them are ever on at one time. when all 3 of them are on water is blown over the edge of the tank. I believe the nano's move about 260gph so total I am about 750gph in my 28. Much more than that and you are going to have sand blowing everywhere.
I am growing everything in my tank. Zoa's/Paly's, softies, LPS, and SPS.
Edited by Krazie4Acans - August 29 2013 at 1:35pm
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My ocean. 90g (yup, won it!), 40g, 28g, & 10g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water Tank Thread:
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Blake
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Posted: August 29 2013 at 1:44pm |
Thanks for the clarification. Yes, I'm looking at powerheads. This has probably been the hardest thing for me to learn about. ha. I've had a few people at stores recommended 2 powerheads (one pointed to the surface the other pointed more to the middle bottom) at about 750gph. What was recommended exactly was 2 powerheads one 600 and one 850. I've also read of some others that haev 30 gallons and use about that much in their powerhead setup. But then I've also read, like you have said, that it is way to much. But, your information is very helpful. I wasn't aware that you could hook up these Korlia evolutions to a "wave maker". Where can I find one of those? do they control speed in case it is too much? Thanks...
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: August 29 2013 at 1:52pm |
Putting Koralias on a wave maker is not recommended by the manufacturer and they do make noise when they start up. So you need to be willing to replace them periodically (about every 3 years) and be able to deal with the short rattle at startup each time the powerhead turns on.
I use an Oceans Motions 4 controller for mine. they don't control speed, just how long each powerhead is on and how many are on at one time. Hope that helps.
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My ocean. 90g (yup, won it!), 40g, 28g, & 10g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water Tank Thread:
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Blake
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Posted: August 29 2013 at 1:58pm |
Thanks Krazie4Acans. That was helpful information. I'll still have to dig a little more on what is a good flow rate. But I was not aware of the controllers. Can you use a regular timer to do the same type of thing? What is different with the controllers?
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: August 29 2013 at 2:41pm |
Timers can simulate a controller but take up a ton of space. My wave maker can control 4 devices and is about the size of two timers. It only takes up one spot on my power strip. As I said if I turn on all 3 of my powerheads at once it will blow water over the edge of the tank. So the controller guarantees me that there will never be more than two on at a time. Plus I have three of them and it randomizes which tow are on which changes up the flow really well. Using timers would kind of do the same thing but I could never guarantee that the third one wouldn't come on and most timers let you set times in 15 minute intervals. I've never seen an ocean wave last 15 minutes. The ones the let you set them shorter limit how many times they will turn on and off per day. So the short answer is timers have to be messed with all of the time and didn't give me the peace of mind I needed. The Controller was a set it and forget it device and has worked flawlessly for 3 years.
I also like the feed feature that shuts all the powerheads off for 5 minutes and then automatically resumes the random mode.
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My ocean. 90g (yup, won it!), 40g, 28g, & 10g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water Tank Thread:
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: August 31 2013 at 8:09am |
Blake wrote:
Thanks Krazie4Acans. That was helpful information. I'll still have to dig a little more on what is a good flow rate. But I was not aware of the controllers. Can you use a regular timer to do the same type of thing? What is different with the controllers? |
There are so many voices it's hard to know which ones to listen to, right? A good flow rate is as different as each individual coral. A new hobbyist can make all of this more complicated than it needs to be. I suggest just starting simple with what you can afford and then upgrade later on. Funny though, after many years, I still find myself taking advantage of the MaxiJet powerheads. For $20(online order) I can get as much flow as a $50 Koralia. Just yesterday, I was telling a LFS owner how I place the stream MJ1200 on the sand. He could not believe that it would work. People come to my place and always say to me, "I didn't know you could do it like that!". I believe the reason for that kind of disbelief is that there are so many different products out there and yet with just a little thought and originality, the inexpensive stuff can work awesome and create a beautiful reef environment. An expert professional in the field of water movement and coral flow needs, Dana Riddle, has said that back and forth wave action is not as critical as we may think. In the pic that I posted earlier I pointed out the visible wave action due to the powerhead being placed down near/on the sand shooting up. Just one single traditional, inexpensive, reliable Maxijet 1200 will create plenty of ideal flow if used in this way. Oh, and here is the amazingly simple but effective "poorman's wavemaker": http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21646Please feel free to call and come visit and see how this can all be done on a reasonable budget. Mahalo, Mark 808-345-1049 near I-15 in Murray
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JohnnyHeavens
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Posted: September 04 2013 at 4:10pm |
I'm a bit delayed but welcome to the site and the hobby!
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@Home 300g System 150g-Cube Reef+60g Frag+WaterChange 150g Tall FOWLR RIP @Work RSM 130D w/LEDs txt anytime @ eightO1-seven5five-eighteen99 Scuba! PADI Pro DM/AI/TecDeep NSS/CDS-Full Cave Diver
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