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Lighting Help

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LakeCityReefs View Drop Down
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    Posted: April 04 2016 at 2:45pm
I am currently running a single AI Prime over a 24x24x20 cube. I initially purchased the light because of its control-ability, price and minimalist appearance.
 I started with some green birdsnest 10" below the surface to make sure polyps would stay extended and that I wasn't going to burn them.  Unfortunately after investigating the proper settings for SPS I have come to find out that the max PAR of the Prime is around 260 at 12" below the surface. 

Let me list some of my concerns and comments and perhaps some of you can chime in to help me out.

The light is about 10" above the water surface and I plan to set my SPS 6-10" below the surface.

* Its been noted that the 500+ PAR ratings of other LEDs are way more than you need and this is why most of them are never run at 100%.

* I have read that the sweet spot for SPS is to be found between 200-300 PAR

* A big portion of the SPS in my tank came from a T5 tank.

* I am afraid to turn the unit up because I've heard that SPS can bleach out in a day if the lights are set too high.

* I want to find a balance of max growth and color.

* I am currently running the UV and blues around 60-70% and the whites around 40%. Green and red are set around 20%

* If the max PAR is 260 with all settings at 100% than wouldn't the PAR be around 130 at 50% ???

* If the max power to the unit is 50 watts and max PAR is 260 shouldn't it be safe to run at 100% with a proper acclimation period of say 2 months?






Edited by LakeCityReefs - April 04 2016 at 2:45pm
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Marcoss View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Marcoss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 04 2016 at 3:56pm
Although your statements make sense, mathematically, I would not run the lights at 100%. The PAR value is something that I don't think most people technically use, as most people probably have not measured their tank. I think PAR is becoming outdated too, I think. I see little about it these days on forums.

That said, the PAR value of 260, if that is what your light says, is only directly below the light on a very specific set up. The PAR value will decrease drastically as the light radiates out. For instance, it might be 150 a few inches from center. 

If this was me, I would run my lights at a max of 40-50%, for just a few hour peak throughout the day. 

More so, if your coral is towards the bottom of the tank, and is healthy and the right color, I would not move it. Although I am not an SPS guy, I do know that birdnest is a type of SPS that can enjoy lower lighting. 

The lighting will for sure bleach corals out very very quickly. Within hours. I took a small piece of a platting coral from the bottom of the tank and placed it higher, to see what would happen, and it bleached out in a few hours. 

I think the sweat spot for any coral is where it is happy. I was at a gentlemen's house that had super nice and fat SPS, super far away from the top of his tank, almost on the base of the tank...


RedSea Max S400 - 90G Rimless Frag Tanks x2 - 185 Lookdown Bin
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Mark Peterson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 04 2016 at 5:48pm

Internet research can be very frustrating. More than half the time we are reading something from a very vocal but relatively inexperienced hobbyist who is often simply passing along something he heard from some other relatively inexperienced hobbyist.

Don't be fooled by product marketing hype about PAR.

Don't be fooled by what some expert or scientist says about proper PAR for coral. Everything is relative to 1) the situation, 2) the conditions of a particular experiment/study and especially 3) that expert/scientists own limited knowledge at the time.

From what I've read and what I've experienced, PAR meter values seem to be inappropriate for LED's. The PAR meter manufacturers actually publish how to use their meter for LED light but then make a disclaimer that such readings are not definitive. I believe it's partly because of the narrow bandwidth emissions of LED's that make the light unreadable. It's my understanding that a PAR meter is made to measure a value by reading emissions across a complete spectrum. I wouldn't get caught up with PAR.

Instead, I would take a practical approach. I have always recommended that we run our tanks by watching coral response/behavior. I'm not saying not to do testing, just that many variables can be seen in coral behavior. For instance, it's coral response that tells us the general Nitrate level, low or high. PO4 level can also be seen in coral response. We can judge when a tank has not been using AC for too long and lighting can be judged in a similar manner.

I would start LED's at low intensity and turn them up 10% every 2 weeks watching how the coral respond, watching the change in algae growth while taking into account other variables in the water like Temp, SG, Alk, Ca, and even turbidity. For example, when AC is used, it can clarify the water by as much as 25%, making lighting intensity 25% brighter to the corals.

Hope this helps rather than confuse.

Aloha,

Mark  Hug



Edited by Mark Peterson - April 04 2016 at 6:52pm
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LakeCityReefs View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LakeCityReefs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 04 2016 at 7:06pm
Im curious if full polyp extension on a tenius acropora is a good read of it liking the light?

Thanks for the responses guys. I appreciate everyones opinion and hope others chime in.

Edited by LakeCityReefs - April 04 2016 at 7:14pm
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Mark Peterson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 04 2016 at 8:44pm

Normally Yes, but when it comes to light overexposure the response is delayed, similar to people playing all day, having fun at the beach without thought of sunscreen. The bad effects of coral sunburn can take several days to start showing up and, depending on the severity, it may be 2 weeks before the coral dies. If it doesn't die it can take a month or more to fully recover. 

One key is to protect from UV radiation.

Aloha,

Mark Hug



Edited by Mark Peterson - April 05 2016 at 5:42am
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