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tube lengths

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hydro phoenix View Drop Down
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    Posted: November 01 2017 at 7:52pm
So the length from the attachment of the bulk head to the sock is 15". My question is, how long should my tube be? Should it be shorter so the changing of the sock is easy? Or longer so it sits in the sock itself? I'm nervous bc there is such a short distance from the sock to the bulkhead and I'm afraid that to much movement will break the glass. I wanted to put a shut off valve on it but the distance is so short that moving the tube would definitely lead to cracking.

Edited by hydro phoenix - November 01 2017 at 7:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Krazie4Acans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 01 2017 at 8:04pm
Long enough so that the end is just below the water level of the sump  while running to reduce splashing and noise
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hydro phoenix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 01 2017 at 8:35pm
Should I put the ball valve at the very end of the tube?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 01 2017 at 8:46pm
Yes, just below water level reduces splashing and noise. I don't use a rigid tube/pipe. Instead I use 1" bilge hose. It's available at many hardware stores. It fits snug in a 1" PVC fitting.  I seal it into the fitting/bulkhead with that silicone we talked about a few weeks ago. Because of the snug fit, it takes over 24 hours for the silicone to cure, but also because of the snug fit, water can be run through it within hours. The bilge hose is corrugated so it's very flexible and yet long lasting. Easy to move out of the way to change the filter sock, yet does not put any stress on the bulkhead or fitting where it's connected.

Some bulkheads have a looser fit. In that case, glue, into the bulkhead, a ~4" piece of PVC pipe with a Coupling or 45 on the end. 45 angle fittings are great for redirecting the drain line and don't cause the resistance to flow like a 90/L fittling. (If the bulkhead ever needs to come out, cut the pipe just at/above the Coupling, leaving enough pipe for gluing a new fitting, making the bulkhead reusable. Smile)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Krazie4Acans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 02 2017 at 7:05am
Originally posted by hydro phoenix hydro phoenix wrote:

Should I put the ball valve at the very end of the tube?


I prefer the ball valve (I find gate valves to be easier to adjust) right below the bulkhead and then any flex hose/tubing after that so that I can make adjustments to the valve without having to hold the tubing or valve in one hand while adjusting with the other. Mounting the valve rigidly allows 1 handed adjustment.
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