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Ick

Printed From: Utah Reefs
Category: Help
Forum Name: EMERGENCY FORUM
Forum Description: If you have an Emergency post here and you should receive a quick reply.
URL: http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=80467
Printed Date: April 25 2024 at 3:19am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Ick
Posted By: triggerhappy1
Subject: Ick
Date Posted: July 10 2016 at 7:34pm
If you use copper can you keep leathers and xenia in the rank. Also a carpet anemone



Replies:
Posted By: 1skindog
Date Posted: July 10 2016 at 9:12pm
I do too think that's advisable, but you're also in the wrong section of the forum unless you are trying to sell ick.   


Posted By: reefnfeef
Date Posted: July 10 2016 at 11:09pm
You don't want to use copper on your display tank.

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aaaaaaaaaaaaaannd.... I'm broke


Posted By: Krazie4Acans
Date Posted: July 11 2016 at 8:05am
Do not use copper in your display tank. It is a heavy metal and is absorbed by the rock, sand and substrate and released back into the tank over time. It's not safe for any corals (except maybe GSP) and it will give you nothing but head aches with your tank from that point forward. So unless you are planning a fish only tank from that point on then do not do it.


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My ocean.
90g (yup, won it!), 40g, 28g, & 10g Systems
PADI Advanced Open Water
http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=63568&title=krazies-nano-paradise" rel="nofollow - Tank Thread:


Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: July 11 2016 at 8:55am
Something looked fishy here so I searched all posts by triggerhappy1. He/she started this exact same topic about a month ago in this same section. Strange that the problem was again placed in the wrong section. Confused
http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=80238&KW=&PID=613918&title=ick#613918" rel="nofollow - http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=80238&KW=&PID=613918&title=ick#613918
It appears that this difficulty has been going on for more than a month, but it looks to me like this hobbyist is not following up.

Aloha,
Mark  Hug 


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Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:
www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244
Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member


Posted By: triggerhappy1
Date Posted: July 11 2016 at 5:28pm
First of all the ick mostly went away from a month ago. Now it's back in my blue tang. I also did not think it was so bad to ask for help from the most commonly used section of the site. Thanks for the info.


Posted By: Krazie4Acans
Date Posted: July 11 2016 at 10:40pm
Originally posted by Mark Peterson Mark Peterson wrote:

Something looked fishy here so I searched all posts by triggerhappy1. He/she started this exact same topic about a month ago in this same section. Strange that the problem was again placed in the wrong section. Confused
http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=80238&KW=&PID=613918&title=ick#613918" rel="nofollow - http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=80238&KW=&PID=613918&title=ick#613918
It appears that this difficulty has been going on for more than a month, but it looks to me like this hobbyist is not following up.

Aloha,
Mark  Hug 

Mark,
      I'm looking for how this post was helpful to the question asked by the user? Are we here to help new members with issues or poke at where they are putting their thread? I think we all posted some great ideas in the post from a month ago and pointing him there was great. Let's do more of that and less "fishy" talk.

  Krazie


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My ocean.
90g (yup, won it!), 40g, 28g, & 10g Systems
PADI Advanced Open Water
http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=63568&title=krazies-nano-paradise" rel="nofollow - Tank Thread:


Posted By: mermaidcamille
Date Posted: July 11 2016 at 10:41pm
Originally posted by Mark Peterson Mark Peterson wrote:

Something looked fishy here so I searched all posts by triggerhappy1. He/she started this exact same topic about a month ago in this same section. Strange that the problem was again placed in the wrong section. Confused
http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=80238&KW=&PID=613918&title=ick#613918" rel="nofollow - http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=80238&KW=&PID=613918&title=ick#613918
It appears that this difficulty has been going on for more than a month, but it looks to me like this hobbyist is not following up.

Aloha,
Mark  Hug 


True...however our goal here first and foremost is to be helpful whether a topic is put in the right spot or not.  I know when I was new to the forum I wasn't sure where to post things.

I think the best thing we can do is be helpful and answer the question not stew about where the topic is. Smile

Triggerhappy 1, As far as ick goes I wish I had some information for you, but my experience is limited.  I apologize and hope that someone with some helpful advice will step up with some good information.


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135g...D.E.A.D

Welcome bright and shiny 120!


Posted By: arthuriv
Date Posted: July 12 2016 at 12:29am
Hi Triggerhappy1,

Don't worry your fine for posting in the classified ads but I did go ahead and move it to the Emergency Forum where you should hopeful get a quick response of answers.

Like others have said you don't want to put copper in your reef tank as it will kill pretty much everything but your fish. If you would like to treat your fish with copper you will need to setup a separate quarantine treatment tank. For the best chances of getting rid of ick you would need to take all your fish out of your reef tank and put in the quarantine tank and treat with copper for 6-8 weeks minimum and leave your reef tank fish free for the same 6-8 weeks minimum in order to be sure all ick has died as ick has a 6-8 week life cycle. I will see if I can find you an article and/or step by step procedure for this and post it here. 


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Quality Marines Aquaculturing & Captive Breeding program!
Presented by Ashley & Chelsea from Reef On
Thursday 6 Oct 2016


Posted By: arthuriv
Date Posted: July 12 2016 at 1:09am
Here is some info from Dr Foster and Smith on how to treat ick:
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=16+2160&aid=2420" rel="nofollow - http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=16+2160&aid=2420

Here is some info on setting up a quarantine tank:
http://www.fishlore.com/QuarantineTankSetup.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.fishlore.com/QuarantineTankSetup.htm

Here is some info on some alternative treatment methods:
http://www.reefdup.com/2012/01/28/fish-quarantine-treatment-for-marine-ich/" rel="nofollow - http://www.reefdup.com/2012/01/28/fish-quarantine-treatment-for-marine-ich/


-------------
Quality Marines Aquaculturing & Captive Breeding program!
Presented by Ashley & Chelsea from Reef On
Thursday 6 Oct 2016


Posted By: 1stupidpunk
Date Posted: July 12 2016 at 10:16am
If you want something to help combat the ick thats safe for your display tank I would recomend Kordon Brand Ich Attack. Follow the directions on the back of the bottle and make sure you continue treating the tank even after you dont see and ich (as recommended in the instructions) as the eggs/larvae/adult life cycle takes a few weeks.

I also agree with the above statements about NOT using copper in your display. If you want to move the affected fish to a QT you could treat them with copper then.


Posted By: kevin.st
Date Posted: July 12 2016 at 11:06am

To add to what the others have said, I always try to avoid adding any chemicals unless you really have to.  Yes, copper will kill ich, but it's hard on these little fish. 

Quarantine/dip every single thing that goes into your tank.  Coral, inverts and fish need to be checked for disease before they are added to your display.  Quarantine doesn't have to involve copper.  I personally do quarantine with prazipro, though.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.



Posted By: Reefer4Ever
Date Posted: July 12 2016 at 11:44am
I don't know how many or the sizes of fish but I have a 10 gallon setup for quarantine and hospital if it will help just let me know

4358906626
Dennis

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90 gal reef w/refugium
24 gal softie tank
11 gal nano anemone tank
5 gal fresh water


Posted By: reefnfeef
Date Posted: July 12 2016 at 12:04pm
Use the tank transfer method. It's the easiest way without chemicals.

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aaaaaaaaaaaaaannd.... I'm broke


Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: July 12 2016 at 1:33pm
Mark's "editorial like" rambling:

Thanks to the WMAS Presidency for moving this thread to the appropriate section. My main concern, as stated at the end of my post above was to see that this person got the help he needed.

Please notice that I never commented in the first thread titled "Ick". I never saw it. I just wasn't looking for something like it in the buy/sell/trade section. Only because I happened to stumble upon this second thread did I discover the first thread which prompted me to say that something was "fishy". LOL When I made that comment, someone objected to it and triggerhapy1's Ich issue finally got some attention. Wink

Almost every day I watch the sections higher up on the page where hobbyists want to discuss things or want answers to questions. The proof that this topic belongs in a section such as this is evidenced by the fact that since it was moved, it has received enormous response. At least now triggerhappy1 can see a variety of decent options for dealing with his Ich Parasite.

Aloha,
Mark  Hug

P.S. 
Should I assume that triggerhappy1 has already read the threads linked in the Reefkeeping Tips below that outline the sequence of the best ways to control Ich?


-------------
Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:
www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244
Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member


Posted By: Hogie
Date Posted: July 12 2016 at 4:22pm
I like the tank transfer method for treating the fish as it involves no chemicals and is as close to 100% guaranteed you can get (as long as you are meticulously sure that no water is transferred from tank to tank.) However, it works better on preventing ich from getting into the tank by treating an incoming fish. The ich life cycle is 70 to 76 days. So a 15 day tank transfer method will get the fish free of ich, but then if the fish goes back into the display tank, it can catch ich all over again. So, if you really want to be rid of ich, you have to do the tank transfer on the fish and then let the display tank be fish free for 76 days for all the ich cysts to hatch and die. With out that, ich can keep coming back again and again. All the fish can seem cured for a couple of months and then the ich comes back as the cysts hatch. But keeping the tank fish free for 80 days isn't practical for most of us though. So we do what we can to keep the immunity of the fish up by proper feed (including garlic) and nutrition, low stress, etc. If a fish gets really bad, you can take it out and treat it so that it gets relief and can survive.

But the one thing you don't want to do is put copper in your display tank. Once it's in there, it will permeate into the sand, rock, silicone, etc. and you'll never get it all out and it's poisonous to most corals and inverts.

Here a link to a detailed description of the tank transfer method, the life cycle of ich, and more than you ever what to know about it (it has links to 2 research reports and has over 350 pages of reports on their studies if you're really feeling ambitious...) http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/spars-tank-transfer-method.209690/" rel="nofollow - Tank Transfer Method Link


Posted By: triggerhappy1
Date Posted: July 13 2016 at 6:49pm
I would like to thank everyone for there input. It is much appreciated. Thanks all



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