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DIY : New Light Housing for 150g

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 19:03
Author: phys
Subject: New Light Housing for 150g
Posted: July 23 2017 at 1:03am

Black Limba. Hard to find with the grain I was looking for. Not the cheapest but not bad for pricing. 
Yea! Wood fluoresces! I'll see if I can post a decent picture. 
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Tank Threads : speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 17:35
Author: speyside712
Subject: speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!
Posted: July 22 2017 at 11:35pm

Mark it's always good to have another person's view point when putting one of these together.  Especially someone as experienced in the hobby as yourself.  I love your idea of hanging something black right behind the tank.  That is a brilliant idea!  I never thought of that.  I am also going to use your suggestion of using thickened PVC cement to plug the poorly placed siphon break I drilled.
Regarding a few of the other ideas though, I will have to respectfully disagree.  Not because your idea wouldn't work, but because I considered that option and planned to take my build in a different direction.
You suggested removing the loc-line fan adapters, and the Y bend to increase flow.  I agree with you that flow is very important, however, my return line is only providing a tiny amount of the overall flow in the tank. I have two Jabeo wavemaker pumps and 1 mp-10. The jabeo's are crazy strong.  Strong enough to splash water out of the tank if I turn the wave makers all the way up.  I haven't gotten to that part of the build yet so you didn't have any way of knowing that, so its understandable you suggested getting increased flow through my return line.
You also mentioned going without a siphon break and check valve, and instead keeping the return line very high in the water.  I also agree that surface agitation is quite important to keeping the water well oxygenated.  I do plan to keep the return line very high in the water so they agitate the surface.  I also point my powerheads slightly to add even more surface movement.  The siphon break and the check valve are both backups in case the return line were to get bumped down lower than usual.  The check valve I bought is the type that easily unscrews to be cleaned, it also came with 2 extra gaskets and plungers in case the first one starts to wear out and disintegrate (as rubber always does in salt water).  I agree that a check valve should never be the main means of preventing your sump from overflowing, however I decided to add it as an additional backup plan.  With the intention of cleaning it often.  As for the added head pressure it causes on the return pump - I mitigated this problem by buying a pump that is quite a bit more powerful than I need, so it should be able to handle the added head pressure without any problems.  I'm only running it at half power at the moment.
Your suggestion not to use unions is very interesting.  I have heard they are very reliable and don't often leak if attached correctly.  I have a bag of extra gaskets.  If these are prone to leaking after time like you say, it sounds like I should be inspecting them regularly and replacing any damaged or disintegrating gaskets.  I'm disappointed to hear the leak often.  They make plumbing a system SO much easier, as you don't have to glue elbow joints in the perfect direction.  Being able to turn the union to line up your plumbing is an important feature to me.  I have seen quite a few other fellow reefers use these.  Have many of you run into problems with them leaking like Mark has?
Your final suggestion of shortening the overflow pipes that feed the filter bags sounds like a good idea too.  I think i'll do that.  I have noticed it is quite difficult to change the filter socks with them being that long (especially when my skimmer is right in front of them blocking my path).  My thinking in cutting them that long in the first place was "If these are too long I can always cut them in the future, but if they are too short i'm SOL."  That and I wanted to get them low enough in the water that I didn't have any splashing adding to the ever growing salt creep.



Edited by speyside712 - 16 hours 17 minutes ago at 11:43pm
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Tank Threads : speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 17:18
Author: speyside712
Subject: speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!
Posted: July 22 2017 at 11:18pm

As for the pvc sheeting.  The stuff I used is definitely waterproof, it is what you would use to line a shower or bathtub prior to installing it.  I believe it's official name is "PVC Shower Pan Liner."
I considered the idea of building a bit of a waterproof basin around the sump.  But when I started building this it was proving to look rather ugly and I didn't think I could make the sides sturdy enough to hold more than an inch of water without adding some wood on the front and back of the base of the stand, something I could staple the liner to.  I ultimately decided to just do a flat piece to act as a waterproof floor below the sump.

Edited by speyside712 - 13 hours 52 minutes ago at 12:08am
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General Discussion : another LFS in St. Gerorge !!

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 11:05
Author: Mark Peterson
Subject: another LFS in St. Gerorge !!
Posted: July 22 2017 at 5:05pm

Anyone around St. George have any comments about this LFS?
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Tank Threads : speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 11:02
Author: speyside712
Subject: speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!
Posted: July 22 2017 at 5:02pm

Appreciate the 2 cents mark! Many good points there. Here are my thoughts regarding a few of them.

Regarding drilling 2 holes in the stand for overflows, I used a 3=inch hole saw for each hole. That size gave me enough room to use one of those wrenches we all use for tightening bulkheads. I believe they are normally built for sprinklers but just happen to fit perfectly. The drilled holes overlap a little, which gives me a little extra room to maneuver in there.
You are right that its a plastic rimmed tank where all the weight is on the edges, so drilling giant holes doesn't hurt anything. But luckily my holes are big enough to work the wrench up there.

When you suggest using a wider drain line, do you mean for the backup, or the main overflow? Or both? I find i have to use the gate value to tone the overflow down a bit to keep full siphon going. I have my return line fully open and the pump set to 3 out of 5 on its controller speed setting. Maybe if I cranked it up to 5 and removed the loc-line fittings I would need a 1.5 inch drain, but it seems 1-inch is already plenty large enough isn't it?

Ill add more later, gotta run to a family birthday party! Happy reefing.



Edited by speyside712 - 12 hours 50 minutes ago at 11:10pm
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Tank Threads : speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 08:12
Author: Mark Peterson
Subject: speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!
Posted: July 22 2017 at 2:12pm

Okay, here is what I see. Please take it for what it's worth, my 2 cents.
"...holes in the stand for the overflows."Those round holes in the stand will make it very difficult to work on the bulkheads. There will come a time when you will wish you had cut one large hole so that a wrench can be positioned to loosen and tighten the bulkheads. It will save hours upon hours of painstaking labor spent trying to loosen and tighten a bulkhead. Assuming that this is a plastic frame glass tank, the hole can be cut very large because the tank sit's only on the plastic frame, not on that board. FYI, on some setups I have been able to enlarge these holes without removing the tank.
"[stapled]...a piece of pvc sheeting...as a waterproof barrier under the sump." I do not believe this will hold water. Water will flow over the bottom, right out the back. It will also soak down into the wood via the staples. The basin you spoke of is very simple to do, using common outdoor pond liner stapled about 3"-4" high and folded/bunched in the corners around the vertical supporting structure. I would place a 4" board across the back to support the pond liner. An inexpensive moisture alarm is a nice addition, telling you when there is water, before it gets too deep.
"I added as many unions as I could so that I could easily take the system apart and clean every piece." Each union is a point of failure where a small leak will eventually occur. Each time the union is unscrewed and put back together the point of failure is renewed. A missed tiny bit of crud on an O-Ring can cause a leak. Instead, use as few screw-able joints as possible. If a problem develops, just cut the pipe, fix the problem and put it back together with a glued coupling or all new piping.
"I also added a check valve on the return line."I have seen check valves on many systems done by others. The check valve will eventually fail because of crud buildup on the seal, causing it to leak or not even close at all. Also, the resistance of that valve makes the pump have to push harder. All the 90 degree turns in the return piping will also add resistance, adding to the need for the pump to push harder. Just because BRS sells them and many other hobbyists use them, doesn't mean they are a good idea. Remove the check valve. There is a better way.
"I wish i would have painted the back of the tank black."Easy options here. Drape some black material or black plastic sheeting from the tanks top plastic frame, secured with tape or slide in a large piece of rigid plastic sheet outside next to the back glass.
"I made a mistake where I chose to [drill] this [siphon break] hole."Easily fixed. Dab some thickened PVC cement at the hole. To thicken PVC cement, just leave a glob sitting out in the air for a minute.
"...the tank will drain to whatever point the loc line return line is in the tank."That is correct. The answer to this will make you go "Doh!" The answer also eliminates the need for a check valve or a siphon break hole. The solution does one more thing, something that is extremely important for animal health. The simple solution is to position the end of the Lock-line at the same level as the drain teeth. The siphon will break when it sucks air. I see a "Y" has been installed on the lock-line. One of the ends sucking air will break the siphon even though the other end may be deeper in the water. This high end can be goose-necked so that it shoots a jet of water along the surface at a slightly down angle to keep water from splashing. The larger water disturbance caused by the jet and the surface water it pulls along with it, is a very good vehicle for gas exchange.Of course, the running water level in the sump must still be low enough to contain the draining water during power off status.
"My other regret is not ordering enough red pvc pipe... its been bugging me everytime I look at it! lol"This may surprise you but you can use paint, preferably epoxy to paint the pipe. I have also used ABS cement to paint white pipe black. The advantage I see in black pipe is that it becomes virtually invisible.

Miscellaneous suggestions:- I would use larger diameter pipe for the main drain. Water will back up around a 1" pipe, whereas it will flow faster around a 1.5" or even 2" drain. I often use a PVC bushing to increase the size of the pipe at the top of the stand pipe. Think of the circumference of a pipe as a spillway. The spillway of a 1.5" pipe is about twice as wide as a 1" pipe.
- I would remove the fan attachments at the ends of the Lock-line. Our animals want strong fast flow. Fans spread out, diffuse and slow the flow. They are generally counter-effective to what we want going on. Actually, because of the limited flow, the single overflow will allow, I'd remove the "Y". It also spreads out and slows the flow. One jet of water will make the best beneficial flow.
- The drain tubes leading into the filter bags are too long. A shorter tube makes it easier to remove and replace bags.
Hope this helps.Aloha,Mark  
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Aquarium Related Classifieds : Yellow watchman goby and candy cane pistol shrimp

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 07:32
Author: BigGuy61
Subject: Yellow watchman goby and candy cane pistol shrimp
Posted: July 22 2017 at 1:32pm

do you still have them
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Aquarium Related Classifieds : LF Jebao DCT 12000 or 15000 pump

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 06:09
Author: p_hefe
Subject: LF Jebao DCT 12000 or 15000 pump
Posted: July 22 2017 at 12:09pm

Reefon had them last time i was there.

Edited by p_hefe - 19 hours 51 minutes ago at 12:09pm
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Meetings and Events : Chasing Coral Screening - Free Event

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 05:33
Author: Mark Peterson
Subject: Chasing Coral Screening - Free Event
Posted: July 22 2017 at 11:33am

Every person should see this. I was going to say 'every hobbyist should see this' but instead, I believe that every hobbyist should take their family and friends to see this movie
I won't be in Salt Lake on August 1 so just this morning my wife and I viewed it on a Netflix subscription at a relatives home. I've got to say that I am glad that we had already viewed the Nye-Schwartzenegger video several times. It prepared me for what I saw in the Chasing Coral movie.
What can I do to help? Although I believe that really terrible times are ahead of us, that these times are inevitable and that they will precede a new era for our planet, I cannot in good faith sit idly by and let my planet suffer.
I read this to my wife and asked her what she thought. In frustration and possibly some resignation, she responded, "What can I do?". Indeed.
Aloha,Mark  
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Aquarium Related Classifieds : LF Jebao DCT 12000 or 15000 pump

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 05:00
Author: Krazie4Acans
Subject: LF Jebao DCT 12000 or 15000 pump
Posted: July 22 2017 at 11:00am

I'm in need of a Jebao DCT 12000 or 15000 pump if anyone has one they would like to sell. LFS near me is out of them. Cash in hand or a replacement as soon as it gets here. I also have two new RW-8 I could trade if interested.

Let me know what you have. Thanks
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Aquarium Related Classifieds : Clown, stunner strips, and doseing setup

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 04:24
Author: Churchtown
Subject: Clown, stunner strips, and doseing setup
Posted: July 22 2017 at 10:24am

Stunner strips sold. Still got the clown and doseing setup
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Tank Threads : speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 02:43
Author: speyside712
Subject: speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!
Posted: July 22 2017 at 8:43am

Go ahead Mark, let me have it! My goal here is to build a reef with as many redundancies as possible so as to not flood my house or kill the inhabitants. I'd love to hear your recommendations, even if they involve tearing it down and starting over
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Tank Threads : speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!

Sat, 07/22/2017 - 02:02
Author: Mark Peterson
Subject: speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!
Posted: July 22 2017 at 8:02am

I can see where there can be a number of improvements, but I hesitate to say anything because most times it seems people make these threads after they are built. What they really want is a big pat on the back, not a critique.
Sooo,Looks great.  I'm sure you'll figure it out.
Aloha,Mark  
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Tank Threads : speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!

Fri, 07/21/2017 - 19:21
Author: speyside712
Subject: speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!
Posted: July 22 2017 at 1:21am

I have a few regrets so far and have made a couple mistakes, but nothing major yet.  As I mentioned above I wish i would have painted the back of the tank black.
I also made a mistake on the return pump.  Although I have a check valve for power outages, that is really more of a backup plan for me.  As i've heard check valves often fail.  My main safety precaution on the return line was going to be a hole drilled in the return line just below the water line.  I made a mistake where I chose to put this hole.
I drilled the hole in the return line about a foot before it exits the loc-line, while its the overflow compartment.  My thinking was "the water level is a little lower in here, so I can drill the hole here above the water line and that will work as an immediate siphon break when the power shuts off."
That didn't go quite as planned.  It turns out that hole is below the loc-line.  So what happens when I pull that plug on the return line is the checkvalve stops flow immediately (as expected) but the water continues to drain backwards through the last foot of the return line, from the display into the overflow compartment through the small hole.  The water drains until the siphon breaks when the loc-line starts sucking air.  So basically the tank will drain to whatever point the loc line return line is in the tank, albeit very slowly through the tiny hole i drilled (which is exactly what i wanted to avoid).
I have not implemented a solution to this yet, as my loc lines are currently just under the surface and not a problem for the sump when you turn the power off.  I think the solution is to drill another hole in the loc line itself, just under the water line in the actual display tank this time.  That should solve the display tank draining issue.
I may try and patch the first hole i drilled in the return line, as it is not helping anything at the moment, if i can figure out a good way to patch it.  Any suggestions here would be great!  The picture below shows where the current hole is drilled, so you can better understand the issue i'm dealing with.


My other regret is not ordering enough red pvc pipe, and being unwilling to wait for another shipment to arrive.  As you can see the standpipes in the overflow compartment don't match the rest of the system.  This is just me being too picky, but still, its been bugging me everytime I look at it! lol

Edited by speyside712 - 6 hours 34 minutes ago at 1:26am
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Tank Threads : speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!

Fri, 07/21/2017 - 19:00
Author: speyside712
Subject: speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!
Posted: July 22 2017 at 1:00am

As you can see in the photos, I used a piece of flexible tubing to to attach the return line to the return pump.  I had heard this would cut down on vibration and noise from the return pump.  My previous build had an external iwaki return pump that was insanely loud, so I was hoping to not have to deal with that sound this time by going with an internal pump and using the flexible tubing.
In hindsight I should have painted the back of the tank black to hide wires and plumbing.  But since I didn't do that I decided all of my wiring and plumbing needed to be hidden behind the overflow.  I routed the return line up right behind the overflow and have it coming over the back of the tank and into the overflow.  From there the loc-line extends out into the display.
I am really pleased with how the return line turned out.  I had just enough room in the overflow to have the 2 standpipes and the return fit without bumping into each other.
For the return pump I went with the Reef Octopus Varios 6.  It has more than enough GPH and can easily handle the 5 or so feet of head pressure on my system.  It also comes with a controller that allows for 5 speeds.  It has a hookup for the included float switch to shut the pump off should it run out of water.  And its apex ready.  I am considering an apex controller so this was important to me.  I have liked the pump a lot so far, its dead quiet and the controller works great and is easy to use.


Edited by speyside712 - 6 hours 52 minutes ago at 1:08am
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Tank Threads : speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!

Fri, 07/21/2017 - 18:48
Author: speyside712
Subject: speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!
Posted: July 22 2017 at 12:48am

Next I had to cut holes in the stand for the overflows.  Because the tank only has 2 holes drilled I decided to go with a herbie overflow and bring the return line up over the back.
Next I cut a piece of thin rubber (from a roll of sound proofing material I had laying around) to size to fit under the stand.  I wanted some protection between the wood and the stand since my wood scratches easily.
I also cut a piece of pvc sheeting to place as a waterproof barrier under the sump.  I stapled this to the bottom of the stand and set the sump on it.  Originally I was thinking I wanted a waterproof basin that could hold a couple inches of water in the case of a leak, but this proved to hard to set up as my stand has angled corners inside.  In the end I just went with a flag waterproof sheet to make and drips and spills easier to clean up.
One thing I will say that I don't love about the sump is that it does not have a rim around the bottom like a normal tank.  The acrylic sits directly on the stand.  This makes it really important that the surface be absolutely clean and free of dust when you put it in place.  I found multiple times I thought it was clean but there was a single grain of sand pushing against the acrylic that I had to remove.
I brought everything into the house, carried it up the stairs with the help of my brother in law (I live in a second floor condo), and set everything up.  Now I was ready to plumb the system.
I ordered red PVC from BulkReefSupply and mapped out all the fittings, unions, gate valves, etc.  Of course I had to re-order multiple times as it seems impossible to map these things out perfectly on the first try...
I added as many unions as I could so that I could easily take the system apart and clean every piece.  I placed a gate valve on the primary overflow and one on the return line.  I also added a check valve on the return line.  Here are some pictures of the final result.







Edited by speyside712 - 7 hours 6 minutes ago at 12:54am
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Show Off / POTM (Picture of the Month) : POTM FINAL JUNE

Fri, 07/21/2017 - 17:44
Author: Riordan
Subject: POTM FINAL JUNE
Posted: July 21 2017 at 11:44pm

I love "C". Those colors!
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General Discussion : another LFS in St. Gerorge !!

Fri, 07/21/2017 - 17:12
Author: Adam Blundell
Subject: another LFS in St. Gerorge !!
Posted: July 21 2017 at 11:12pm

Greg Tanner owned a store called Aquarium Arts in Bountiful back in the 90's.  I loved that place.
Adam
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Tank Threads : speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!

Fri, 07/21/2017 - 12:09
Author: speyside712
Subject: speyside's new 90 gallon reef build!
Posted: July 21 2017 at 6:09pm

Alright time to get this thing started!
The tank is cycling right now, so I figured its a good time to go over what I've done so far and catch the thread up to be real-time.
This tank has been in the works for a long time.  My house needed a lot of preparation before it was ready for a tank.  Since I was upgrading tanks and wanted to keep my existing fish, I needed to have both tanks up and running at the same time.
Step 1 was to move the old tank out of the way.  It was surprisingly easy to move compared to most tanks.  I doesn't have a sump, and has a relatively shallow sand bed so after draining the water and removing the rock is wasn't all that heavy.  It only took two of us to lift it.  I was able to drain the water into buckets and a 25 gallon rubbermaid tub, put the rocks and fish into the rubbermaid, move the tank about 20 feet to its new location, and then move the water, rocks, and fish back into the tank.  I was a little worried as I wasn't able to catch either of the yellow tail damsels.  And when I removed the last rock I realized they weren't anywhere in the tank! But then they showed up in the tank just fine after it was moved.  They must have hitched a ride inside one of the rocks.  Sneaky little guys...  The move only took maybe a hour or less, so I wasn't real concerned about adding a heater or bubbler to the rubbermaid tub.
I had a number of house projects I wanted to complete that the old tank had been preventing.  With it out of the way and before a new one went it, I could knock those out.
I painted the entire living and dining room.Ripped out all the carpet, put down self leveling cement, and laid hard wood flooring.Changed the outlet where the new tank will sit to be a GFI.
There is a small coat closet directly behind where the new tank sits, so I decided that would be like my mini fish room.  I ripped out the existing single shelf, patched the holes and repainted the walls.  The I built 4 new shelves, stained them, and installed them in the closet.
These are the shelves being stained.
I cut two holes in the wall between the closet and the tank.  I installed outlet boxes that let wires run right through to the other side.  I was planning to use 1 hole for electrical and the other for plumbing.

Next I had to get electrical to this closet.  I ran new romex cable from the master bedroom that shares the closets right wall.  I installed 1 outlet from this breaker.  I ran another set of romex to an additional outlet on the left side of the closet, from the living room breaker.
Now I had a space to store ballasts for my lights, auto-top off container, 2-part dosing containers, all the controllers, and various other supplies.  Not to mention outlets from two separate breakers switches to allow for enough power without tripping a breaker.
Now that I had the wall, floor, and fish closet prepped I was ready to buy a tank.  After browsing a number of fish stores (and being devastated when I realized Bird World had closed!) I decided to order a stand through aquatic dreams.  I asked for a dark walnut stand and canopy with a canopy 4 inches taller than standard.  To my surprise they actually quoted me $200 less for a custom build than if I bought one they had in stock!   :)
After about 2 weeks they gave me a call and said the new stand was ready for me to come pick it up.  I would recommend buying through them for anyone looking for a custom stand.  The price was very reasonable and the work by DriftWood Aquariums is beautiful.  I could not have asked for a better looking stand.  My old stand was super flimsy and might collapse if you bumped into it by accident.  This one is super sturdy and really high quality.
I ordered a 36 gallon ruby model sump by trigger systems from BulkReefSupply.com.  I shopped around for a while and it seemed like a good option for me.  Its a little more expensive than buying a 35 gallon tank at petco and building the baffles yourself, but for the convenience factor and built in probe and filter sock holders, it was worth it.

I shopped around trying to find a tank that had an overflow with 3 holes pre-drilled.  After going to every fish store in northern utah, I gave up looking for one.  I was hoping to use a herbie overflow and have the third hole to bring the return up inside the tank, but without drilling the tank myself or building the overflow from scratch it seemed I would never find a 3-holed tank.  I'm sure I could have drilled it myself, but the stock overflows aren't quite big enough to allow for 3 bulkheads.  So rather than custom building it myself, I decided to go with a standard 2 hole'd tank.  I ordered a 90 gallon MarineLand tank from Live Rock'N Reef.  They don't usually sell tanks so they had to order it, but they gave me a price $100 less than everywhere else I looked.
Here is a shot of the setup:
I'll add more tomorrow, pictures included!

Edited by speyside712 - 7 hours 39 minutes ago at 12:21am
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Aquarium Related Classifieds : Great dry rock rubble from Bulk Reef Supply

Fri, 07/21/2017 - 09:45
Author: mmcc
Subject: Great dry rock rubble from Bulk Reef Supply
Posted: July 21 2017 at 3:45pm

I have at least 8 lbs of a 10 lb bag of Bulk Reef Supply's dry rock rubble available:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-bulk-dry-live-rock-rubble.html

I was really happy with this stuff. It's aesthetically pleasing and you can clearly see the coral that formed the rock.

$15
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