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mcox 
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Joined: May 25 2005
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 Topic: DIY glass aquarium
Posted: May 25 2005 at 12:53pm |
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Has anyone tried to do this? What was your experience? I am thinking about doing a 72"L x 30"W x 24"H glass aquarium. Brother is in glass business and can get the glass at employee discount. Neither he nor I have done an aquarium before. Is this too risky? Any suggestions on how to minimize chance of bubbles in silicone when assembling? Do you need to take into account space silicone will take when cutting to above dimensions? Is using low iron/starphire glass(display panes only) worth the additional cost? Any hints on doing this project? Thanks in advance.
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Robudda
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Posted: May 26 2005 at 3:17pm |
You can check here about some details. Just enter the size, and it will calculate gallons, what thickness glass, how much of what size, and a brief how -to.
www.garf.org/tank/buildtank.asp
Or if you decide not to try it yourself you can talk to Eric about having him build you an acrylic tank.
www.marine-aquatics.com
Rob
Edited by Robudda
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coreyk
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Posted: May 26 2005 at 4:41pm |
I built my 60 and my 10 that sits next to it. It was a fun projec, but
I dont know if i'd do it again. IMO low iron glass is worth it. your
welcome to come over and check mine out.
here is my thread about it on RC
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mcox
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Posted: June 13 2005 at 11:33am |
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Thanks for the input!
I think the directions at GARF are using the method that floats the bottom plate 1/4" and the front,back,ends surround the bottom plate. The LFS's that I have visited and the study that I have done tend towards all plates resting on top of the bottom plate with ends in between the front/back. Any further comments or suggestions on doing this? Thanks to all!
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jfinch
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Posted: June 13 2005 at 11:44am |
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Yeah, I think you're right. The silicone bond is going to be stronger against shear then expansion. And since the bottom is supported by the stand, most of the force of the water column is going to be outward on the sides. Placing the sides on top of the bottom plate should be a stronger joint. Where you joint the sides vertically is likely only a matter of aesthetics.
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mcox
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Posted: June 30 2005 at 9:52am |
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In searching for additional insight into building a tank I came across an article at about.com under make your own tank. It talked about the process of building a 55 gallon tank, but said that the process would be applicable to larger/smaller tanks as well. It didn't address all the questions I had, so I emailed the authors with my planned tank dimensions and received the following information:
When properly applied, the layer of silicone between the glass panels is paper thin and shouldn't affect glass measurements. If the glass dimensions when cut are not exact and only off by a mm or two, it won't effect the tank(if the error on the front,back and side panels is toward being smaller rather than larger).
Minimizing bubbles: just lay down a continous bead with no gaps and when you press the glass panels together, do it in one motion and then duct tape them together without letting them seperate.
Beveling: Not a bad idea and would add a nice finished touch to the tank. I wouldn't bevel the bonded edges, though.
Proper amount (bead)where edges meet: Whatever it takes to completely cover the bonding edges when the glass panels are pressed together. Silicone is realatively cheap, so err on the side of too much, rather than too little. You can always clean up the excess later.
If done properly, 99% of the bonding strength and water seal is directly in between the glass panels, not the silicone that is applied to the inside corners. Applying silicone to the corners does give a nice finished look, however.
Low Iron vs. Plate: No experience w/low iron, so can't really give an opinion on it.
All tempered tank vs. all plate glass: I wouldn't use tempered glass. It doesn't bend or just break, only shatters when over stressed.
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