DIY Tank Build

Now that my project is almost done I thought I'd post pics of my new tank. I wanted to build a tank that could serve as two separate environments for fish/corals. So I could adjust flow, lighting, etc specifically for each compartment.

I got the acrylic from Delvies Plastics in SLC. I used 3/8" cell cast acrylic just to be safe, even though the math said that 1/4" would be fine for this application. So with an idea in mind I drew up a cut sheet and faxed it over to Delvies.

The first thing I did was lay out all the cut pieces and make sure it was all going to fit as planned.

Then I set to work on the overflow. The masking was peeled back just enough so that I could see the edge I would be seaming together clearly, and the edge was prepped with a light sanding with some fine grit sandpaper. It's important to remember to go all the way to the edges and apply even pressure to avoid cupping your acrylic.

Then I started seaming the edges. You want to go slowly and make sure that you get all the air bubbles out of the joint to ensure that it will be strong when fully cured. Otherwise it could be look out Noah. (Wait 4 hours between each seaming before moving the pieces or continuing to build.)

After the overflow box was set I seamed it to the bottom panel, after edge prep and measuring to make sure it was in the middle of the tank.

4 hours later I prepped the edge of the middle panel and seamed it onto the bottom panel. (It's important to note that you can only seam a horizontal joint. So when you're building plan out how to arrange the tank to seam each joint to prevent the solvent from running.)

After sitting overnight I seamed the front panel to the middle divider and bottom panel. I also seamed the joint between the divider and overflow box.

Here is what your joint should look like:

Then I cut the holes for overflow plumbing. I used an ordinary hole-saw. While drilling you'll need someone to spray the bit and cut being made with cold water to prevent the acrylic from melting. You may have to stop a couple times to get all the way through. Another tip is to never drill all the way through from one side. Always go about halfway from each side, this will prevent splintering or chipping that would make a watertight seal difficult.

After finishing the holes the back panel was seamed to the bottom panel and overflow box.

After the 4 hour waiting periods the side panels were seamed onto the tank.

After another 4 hours I laid the tank flat and applied a thicker solvent over the joints to reinforce the joints and provide a better seal. 

5 days later the tank was water tested and it passed with flying colors.

Got the plumbing in and fit the tank for the return lines. I just need to finish building the standpipe. If anyone has any ideas for what sort of fittings to use I'm open to suggestions

So after finishing the stand I installed the rest of the plumbing:

I also started filling it up with water, so by Monday the cycle should be in full swing.

Edges are still looking great, even filled with water:

Here are a few pics of the pump/overflow working, I'll post more pics once I get the sand and rock in.

Fishoutawater- Yes all my seams look this way, I've had a lot of practice building up to this. I don't really like the pin method so I don't use it. I just spend a lot of time prepping the edges I'm going to seam. I've found that's the key to getting good air-free joints. I also have learned not to skimp on the solvent use plenty, and have a rag handy to dab away any excess that might run out of the joint.

Dion and Nick- Thanks!

Also a quick update: I just checked my emails and my bulkheads and lockline should be here tomorrow so I'll post more pics of it with plumbing installed. My goal is to have it cycling by next week at the latest

 

I really want to do a 3' deep tank for my next display. I'm curious though how are you going to rout the overflow with it already installed? Are you using a laminate trimmer with an offset base?