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T5 Ballast Question...??

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Nick801 View Drop Down
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    Posted: November 02 2009 at 2:45pm
Curious about Icecap 660 ballasts Vs Work horse ballasts for t5s....

I'm running two work horse 7 ballasts to run 4 54w t5s...  I'm wondering if its worth the trouble to switch these ballasts to 660? do you really get more light with ice cap ballast?


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Ryan Thompson View Drop Down
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You overdrive the bulbs to almost 85W a piece. You will need to cool them a lot more though or you will burn the bulbs out really quick. Like 6 months tops.

I would switch out to the standard High Output ballasts found at Reefgeek.com. They are like $40 a piece and you need 2. That way the bulbs will be driven how they are supposed to be run.

Workhorse ballasts are not good for T5 because they under drive the bulbs and the life of the bulbs is usually shorter. They also don't have the "end of life" circuit. SO if a bulb burns out the Workhorse will continue to supply power to that bulb and it can catch fire.
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I think workhorse ballasts have an undeserved bad name in the industry. 
 
If you already have the workhorse ballast I would not spend the money to replace them. In my opinion you will not see any difference compare to how the workhorse is driving the bulbs, And yes I have run T5's with the univeral ballast from reefgeek and workhorse ballasts.
 
end of life and soft start circuits are overrated.  FYI I believe if I remember right there is no end of life circuits or softstart stuff in the icecap ballasts but you do not hear everyone bashing those ballast because of it like you do the workhorse.
 
I believe in the giant Q&A T5 thread it was said that workhorse does drive the bulbs to spec but runs slightly hotter and uses a tinny bit more power, which it is outputing as heat.
 
I believe it is entirely undocumented that using a workhorse will shorten your bulb life, yes the icecap has been proven to shorten bulb life and they loss color faster if not cooled.  In my opinion a properly cooled t5 bulb run by a workhorse will perform as good as one run by the spec ballast from reefgeek.  end of life circuits in my opinion are not very relavant as everyone I know changes the bulb due to color shift and/or low par before they are technically anywhere near end of life.  That bulb you change after a year most likely will burn and produce light for another two years no probelm.
Scott Noyce
90G reef ready AGA display
basment 20G sump, 29G fuge
4x54 watt T5 retro SLR
Octopus NW150
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Thompson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 02 2009 at 6:17pm
Originally posted by snoyce snoyce wrote:


 
I believe in the giant Q&A T5 thread it was said that workhorse does drive the bulbs to spec but runs slightly hotter and uses a tinny bit more power, which it is outputing as heat.
 
I believe it is entirely undocumented that using a workhorse will shorten your bulb life, yes the icecap has been proven to shorten bulb life and they loss color faster if not cooled.  In my opinion a properly cooled t5 bulb run by a workhorse will perform as good as one run by the spec ballast from reefgeek.  end of life circuits in my opinion are not very relavant as everyone I know changes the bulb due to color shift and/or low par before they are technically anywhere near end of life.  That bulb you change after a year most likely will burn and produce light for another two years no probelm.

I asked Grim specifically about the Workhorse stuff. He posted a bunch of numbers comparing the WH stuff to the good stuff. Needless to say, he HATES workhorse ballasts for T5 applications. The numbers from the WH stuff were crappy compared to other T5 ballasts.

I would not risk a bulb going bad and my ballast not shutting off power to the bulb. There are too many bad things that can happen in this hobby and I try to eliminate what I can.

Scott is right though, it probably isn't worth $80 to change the ballasts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snoyce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 03 2009 at 9:26am
Hey Ryan,
 
Would you mind posting where Grim posted numbers for the workhorse stuff, I can not seem to find it.  I would be very interested in seeing actual tested difference between workhorse vs a spec ballast vs icecap overdriven.
 
I only seem to find posts from 2007 discussing workhorse vs Icecap here is part of one that Grim posted
 
The Ice Cap ballast will overdrive the shorter lamps to 40%. As you move to the longer lamps the overdrive isn't as large. I got about a 35% increase in PAR output with the 54 watt lamps. Not sure what the actual increase would be on an 80 watt lamp cause I never had a spec 80 watt ballast but the Ice Cap was 28% brighter than using a Workhorse 7.
I know icecaps overdrive the bulbs, but I would be interested in how much difference the PAR output is between using a workhorse 5 or 7 vs using a spec
  • AccuStart Triad 2x54W T5 High-Output Ballast
  • by Universal Lighting
  • Scott Noyce
    90G reef ready AGA display
    basment 20G sump, 29G fuge
    4x54 watt T5 retro SLR
    Octopus NW150
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    Ryan Thompson View Drop Down
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Thompson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 03 2009 at 9:33am
    Scott,

    I looked for it yesterday but not sure where it was. It was at least 3 or 4 splits ago.

    You can jump on there and ask Grim if he has the numbers available still. I know a lot of his info was on another computer and it crashed so he lost some studies he had done. Most was retrieved but not all.

    I believe the Workhorse 7 will overdrive the bulbs a little depending on length. I just know that Grim hates the WH stuff and only recommends it, IF you have a box of them laying around.


    Edited by Ryan Thompson - November 03 2009 at 9:54am
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