Hi,

pistonfister- "I just curious. if you hooked a float valve up to you sump from a swamp cooler  and then hooked your ro unit into it would that work?"

I assume you mean using a swamp cooler float valve in your sump?

I'd be a little concerned with the metals in the valve. Here's a 6 dollar option. It could be well worth the piece of mind.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=Float+Valves&product%5Fid=Mini+PVC+Float+Valves">http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=Float+Valves&product%5Fid=Mini+PVC+Float+Valves

If you want a "real" aquarium product, try this:

http://www.fishsupply.com/cgi-bin/f2/common/store.cgi?dbname=f2&path=top/S/SQ/DQVAL/SZVKM">http://www.fishsupply.com/cgi-bin/f2/common/store.cgi?dbname=f2&path=top/S/SQ/DQVAL/SZVKM

I wouldnt recommend putting this valve on your tank, turning the RO on, and forgetting about it. From what I've read, it can prevent the RO membrane from functioning properly.

You can however buy or make a float switch system to activate a solinoid at the RO's main feed. When the water goes down far enough, it kicks on until the water is up high enough to kick off again.

Personally, I have a manual switch for my RO and a float valve in the sump. (More than 1 flood has been caused by a malfunctioning float switch). Every few days, I just flip the switch and come back a few hours later to shut it off. If I forget for a bit, the float valve is there to help prevent my stupidity.

I've been considering setting up a float switch system. But I would only feel comfortable doing so with a double float valves involved. Unfortunately, I have been unable to locate an all plastic in-line float valve. This one ( http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=Float+Valves&product%5Fid=PVC+Float+Valve">http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=Float+Valves&product%5Fid=PVC+Float+Valve ) is close, but still has some metal.

Has anyone seen an all plastic in-line float valve?

HTH:D

Here's a solenoid that would work:  http://www.mcmaster.com">www.mcmaster.com part number 7877K53.  I think it's about $18.  All wetted parts are plastic.

For the price of another float switch ($12), the whole system can be wired so a high sump level kills all power to either the filling pump or solenoid valve (the way simple has described above... only fully auto), preventing potential floods.  I've never seen an all plastic inline valve, but personally I wouldn't hesitate to use one with stainless parts for make-up water.

Simple, does your RO unit say it can't be operated at static line pressure?  I could have sworn I've seen RO units under sinks used for drinking water with the valve on the outlet side of the unit (ie at the sink).

Dont know if this is the kind of solution your looking for but its easy and realtively cheap (~$20).  You've prolly seen this method before but it works well for me so far.  Just picked up the jug and topper at a local wine making supply store.

Hi,

jfinch- "Simple, does your RO unit say it can't be operated at static line pressure?"

Not sure, I toss packaging.

"I could have sworn I've seen RO units under sinks used for drinking water with the valve on the outlet side of the unit (ie at the sink)."

Right, that's ok from what I remeber reading. They use a pressure valve to shut the RO off when the faucet valve is closed. When you get a glass of water the RO turns ON theeeeeeen OFF (much like float switchs can control it). The info I remember reading said that you dont want to have it baaaarely going or flashing on and off every so often. Like what happens with evaporation if you turn on the RO with a float valve and walk away. I dont remember exactly why. But I think it had something to do with debris on the screen when flashing on and off. And something to do with clean/waste balances when barely on.

Again, this is just something I've read.

"personally I wouldn't hesitate to use one with stainless parts for make-up water."

I agree. I don't think the steel on the in-line i linked to would even get wet. Even if it were touching, I'd hardly worry. But it would be nice to have an all plastic alternative when I get around to it :)

jordanh-

Thats a nurce right?

:D 

pistonfister,

If you decide to go with the float valve, ( i run a float valve to control my ro unit) I have an extra back-pressue valve. This will shut off the incoming water when the float valve closes.  You could have it for a frag of something or other.

My ro unit flows into a 50 gallon resevoir. I do have a ball valve to shut off the incoming water, but in the event that I forget, the back pressure valve insures that I don't let all the ro water run down the drain.

Shane

Gary,  Are you saying you use a swamp cooler float valve?

I ordered one of the PVC Plastic float switches that "Simple" recommended from US Plastics in place of the "swamp cooler" float valve that I have been using on my RO resevoir, and I'm going to sleep better at night, It only cost $12 shipped, and it arrived in less than a week.

Ryan

I use the Kent Marine system as well. I installed it a couple months ago. It has worked perfectly. I actually have it set up exactly like utahtaper. I have two outputs one to the float valve installed on my sump and the other to my work area in the basement for filling containers.

The kit was extremely easy to install. I bought mine at Marine Depot for $40 I think, which included the solenoid, and float valve and all the connections I needed.

Rich "Diverdan"