PAR meter to borrow?
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Topic: PAR meter to borrow?
Posted By: evan127
Subject: PAR meter to borrow?
Date Posted: May 15 2016 at 6:28pm
| Does the club or anyone here locally have a PAR meter that can be borrowed? |
Replies:
Posted By: Fatman
Date Posted: May 16 2016 at 9:08am
| I know the club does not. I don't know of any members that have one. |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: May 16 2016 at 9:09am
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FYI, see this recent thread: http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=79868" rel="nofollow - http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=79868 If you're looking for a meter that will accurately read LED's, good luck. Just like digital cameras have a hard time taking pics of our tanks under bluish LED lights, It's my understanding that PAR meters don't give an accurate reading. My recommendation - just eyeball it and do "light acclimation" re: start new lights at pretty low intensity and increase by ~10% every 2 weeks. Why start with such low intensity? Because coral can handle low light for a long time, but can seriously suffer after just one days exposure to LED light that didn't look that bright to our eyes. Lethal sunburn is real. I know. I've done it to more coral than I care to admit. Aloha, Mark  ------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member 
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Posted By: Krazie4Acans
Date Posted: May 16 2016 at 9:21am
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Par meters don't give you an accurate number of actual value but they will give you a valid level of change in intensity. If you want an accurate measure of LED light output you need to measure PUR. Most newer meters can measure both but this all comes at a price. Start low and make small adjustments each week until you see a negative reaction (pail colors or polyps not reacting as they have before) in some corals. This is a sign that it is too much. Back it down a little and let it ride for a while to see the effect over time. I generally adjust on a Saturday morning so that I have the weekend to observe the tank immediately after the change and be able to adjust back down if it's too much. That's better than adjusting in the morning and then going to work for 8 hours only to come home and find everything sunburned. ------------- My ocean. 90g (yup, won it!), 40g, 28g, & 10g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water http://utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=63568&title=krazies-nano-paradise" rel="nofollow - Tank Thread: |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: May 16 2016 at 9:58am
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Excellent fine points Jeff. I especially like the idea of increasing lighting on a day where I'll be around to check up on it. Thanks. Mahalo, Mark ------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
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Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 16 2016 at 7:23pm
Thanks! |
Fatman wrote:Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 16 2016 at 7:27pm
Eyeball PAR? I'm not really sure why you (and others) think I am trying to acclimate coral to my lighting or that PAR meters don't give accurate numbers under LEDs. I was just curious if anyone knew where I could borrow one locally. |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: May 17 2016 at 7:49am
Well excuuuse me.  Certainly you noticed, this is a marine aquarium club. You posted in the "Discussion" section where we talk about all things about marine aquariums. There is another section for non-aquarium stuff. It's labeled "Off Topic" Aloha, Mark
------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
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Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 17 2016 at 7:56am
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No excuse necessary. I guess I could have asked that in a different way. But isn't this in the appropriate forum? It is aquarium related. What did you mean by "just eyeball it"? Is there any empirical evidence that most hobby grade PAR meters don't accurately account for LEDs? |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: May 17 2016 at 9:46am
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When I stand back and take a broad look at an aquarium and compare it's general intensity of light with that of the lighting in the surrounding room, taking into account whether the light in the room is artificial or natural, sunny day or cloudy day, I can see differences and make rough evaluations of whether it's too much or not enough light for coral. Granted, I've seen 1000's and worked on many 100's of aquariums over the years, so I really shouldn't expect other hobbyists to see what I see. Unfortunately, I have not had enough experience with viewing LED intensity and as I will try to explain below, my eyes do not have the ability to do it. Sounds like you are as skeptical as I am.  Yes, I'm pretty sure there is evidence other than my own personal opinion that PAR meters don't accurately register LED intensity. This entire industry of LED's is still evolving, rapidly evolving.In a light meter, an electronic chip reads the general intensity of light by adding up the entire visible light spectrum, from 380nm to 750nm. I don't know exactly what type of chip is used in a PAR meter, but I believe that these sensors were originally designed for full spectrum light. LED's don't emit a full spectrum. I am far from understanding it and I could be wrong, but it seems to me that PAR devices probably catch all these peaks, and yet much of the full spectrum is missing. Consequently, the intensity of these relatively few individual peaks adds up to something far less. I'm not sure how to best say this but, my thought is that a PAR meter gives an intensity of way less than the true intensity of the individual peaks. This is why full power LED lights often irritate coral, burning the coral with the intensity of the individual peaks. Is this making sense? Because our eyes generally register the full spectrum, they are just as inadequate as the meter. What looks to us as dim light is actually burning coral.  The chart below, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunlight" rel="nofollow - wikipedia.org shows the FULL SPECTRUM and INTENSITY of sunlight.  Human understanding is minuscule, constantly trying to catch up to the true reality of the universe. Aloha, Mark  ------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
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Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 17 2016 at 10:39am
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I don't know if I fully understand why ambient outside light is a factor in the determination of corals getting the right amount of light in our reef tanks. We live in Utah. No where near a natural reef where I could see comparing the sun on any given day to that of a captive reef's light source. Where are you getting this impression that LEDs don't emit a full spectrum? LEDs that are on the market today seem to be incredibly powerful. I think most people (especially those transitioning from other light sources) underestimate the amount of light coming out of these fixtures due to the narrow, focused light. That's why I think we frequently read forum posts of fellow hobbyists bleaching corals. Someone coming from MHs/T5s that switches to a new LED fixture over their reef, compares the light sources visually and finds coral bleaching. That's why PAR meters are crucial to determining the output of LED fixtures. I think it has less to do with spectrum and more to do with the intensity of these fixtures. |
Posted By: IronMonkey
Date Posted: May 18 2016 at 9:35pm
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The new Apogee MQ-500 does a lot better with LEDs and the harder to read ranges of deep reds. Check out Dr. Bugbee here talking about quantum sensors. I purchased the MQ-500 and am extremely happy with it. https://youtu.be/Pc_tqLYhITA Plus, I really like supporting a Utah company :-) -Adam ------------- Mixed Reef : 210G, Radion XR30Pros, Apex Gold, Vortech MP40QDs, GEO CR818 calc reactor, Apex DOS, Reeflo Dart pump, Vertex Alpha 200 skimmer, XF250 Gyre, twin Tunze nanostream 6095 |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: May 19 2016 at 8:22am
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Evan, It looks like we are not understanding each other. Let's get together and visit about this, and see each others tanks too.  Please call/text me at 808-345-1049 Aloha, Mark ------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
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Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 19 2016 at 9:44am
Apogee is local company? I'll definitely look at the video. Thanks for the response! |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 19 2016 at 9:45am
I don't think we are understanding each other. I'll gather my thoughts and post my notes. |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 23 2016 at 3:02pm
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"When I stand back and take a broad look at an aquarium and compare it's general intensity of light with that of the lighting in the surrounding room, taking into account whether the light in the room is artificial or natural, sunny day or cloudy day, I can see differences and make rough evaluations of whether it's too much or not enough light for coral." Maybe I'm missing the goal you're trying to portray by directly comparing ambient light to a captive reef aquarium's light source. How does this comparison help determine the amount of PAR over the reef? When comparing light from a multiple bulb T5 fixture (assuming a mixture of different bulb types, number of bulbs, wattage, height over the water line, etc), a metal halide fixture (assuming different wattages, bulb types, number of bulbs, height over the water line, etc) and even a LED fixture where there could be any imaginable combination of intensity and spectrum, how can human eyes determine the amount of light, in this case PAR, being emitted from this vast selection and variations of these light sources? You even state; "Because our eyes generally register the full spectrum, they are just as inadequate as the meter. What looks to us as dim light is actually burning coral." So unless you mean that our eyes can see if corals are getting enough or not enough light based on our viewing of bleaching corals and therefor come to the conclusion there is in fact too much PAR over the reef, I find that claim to be very misleading, contradictory, and an uneducated statement. I find it impossible that one can just "eye ball it", as you've suggested, without the direct result being bleached corals. "LED's don't emit a full spectrum." I think that is a very regurgitated and dated response. There are so many different types of fixtures on the market today. So let's take the fixture I chose for example, the EcoTech Radion Gen 3 Pro. I chose it specifically because it does emit a full spectrum, 350nm to 750nm. It is my understanding is that that that is a a full spectrum. The graph you posted even suggests the very claim you were arguing against (a lot of those LEDs are in many popular fixtures on the market today.) |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: May 24 2016 at 7:25am
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Eyeballing it means to make a rough judgement, but never mind that. I'm just an old fool that was doing aquariums before you were born. I have a sense for this that few people understand. It's sad (and may I say chicken) that you would not call me but rather accuse me in public of being stupid. You have no idea how much I know and with no offense intended, I say that you don't know what you don't know. In the graphs I posted above it's very plainly exhibited that individual LED's emit only a very tiny peak of energy in their intended spectrum. Even the white LED's do not give full intensity across the complete spectrum as emitted from the sun. If you cannot see that in those graphs then we have no where else to go with this discussion. Aloha, Mark
------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
|
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 24 2016 at 8:26am
First of all Mark, I'm in no way trying to make you look stupid. However, I am arguing against your points you've made in a public reef aquarium forum regarding the discussion at hand for others to see two differing opinions on the subject. If you are threatened by that, maybe a healthy argument about something so specific in our hobby is not something you should engage in any longer. I've never once resorted in calling you names or insulted your actions. I think this says more about you than it does about me. I believe I am being objective in this discussion, but it seems to me that you have been very unclear and contradictory with your statements, which I am merely trying to obtain clarification by asking specific questions. Mark, please don't belittle or question my intellect again. Evan |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 24 2016 at 8:30am
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And the white LEDs you are referring to show the relative power of that color/channel/LED. It is still included in the spectrum, even though it's relative power is lesser than that of the other colors. So, full spectrum, no? Edit: spelling error. |
Posted By: LakeCityReefs
Date Posted: May 24 2016 at 8:43am
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Found this (post below) on another site the other day. Thought it was interesting so I downloaded the LUX meter and what I found was pretty cool when I measured full sunlight, cloud cover and indoor light intensities. Rather than settings. Heres some theory. Target the corals you have and would like to have in your tank. Many corals are High light corals many are med and low. Higher light corals like a brighter and less blue more full spectrum light. Corals usually who prefer lower light prefer more blue, as the deeper you get in the sea the bluer light gets.  Many corals will adapt to the in between but the highs just dont like low and the lows just dont like high. You light will produce GREAT spectrum and you can adjust its color to imitate deeper and shallower lighting conditions (as you get familiar with the light you will see a correlation there id bet). So lets talk about intensity. I use a LUX meter to test intensity.($15 on http://www.amazon.com/" rel="nofollow - amazon or free app if you dont mind holding your phone over a tank of saltwater.) With a new light I would measure the intensity in lux at the top of the water at full power. I would suspect you will get 35,000 to 50,000 lux. At the surface of the ocean(SPS corals) the light is 60 to 80,000+ lux. So if you have 50,000 lux you can very likely grow SPS quite well near the top of the rocks, and everything else down to the sand bed quite well too. Really low light corals may not like it. If your light at full is only 16 to 25,000 lux of intensity at the top you probably wont be able to grow those high light corals and Id wager many zoas wont do well on the sand bed. By knowing what lighting conditions you can provide you can now choose corals that match those conditions. Just like your water parameters. If you use a par meter and use the same technique it will produce the same results. Par calculates intensity and usable spectrum. Knowing just a little bit about where the coral actually come from really can help in those choices too. Light acclimation is a real thing so keep that in mind. The LFS probably uses way too little light so you don't want to blast them. So creating a an acclimation mode would be cool and then ramp up to what you had. Personally I would always set my expensive light to ramp up to its highest point and work from there.Unless you really love low light corals. The sun&sky is 80,000 to 120,ooo lux and the highest par is 2,000. its likel'y you wont hit those. But your Maxima clam might be happy if you did.  I found that my living room light was hitting right around 120, the sunlight was 140,000, cloud covered sun was at 85,000, and 10" below my LED was at 30,000. when I cranked my LED to 100% it was at 55,000. Unfortunately the free app for your phone isn't something that's going to give you underwater readings but it did give me a starting point and comparison to natural sunlight.
------------- Here we go again |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 24 2016 at 9:18am
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That's a pretty neat idea. At least you get a surface reading right? Were lux meters used for photography before light meters were implemented in cameras? I have always acclimated my new corals to my light, especially SPS. I don't alter my light fixture's intensity though. I do the old school method of placing them in lower PAR areas like on the sides and corners of the aquarium. Then slowly move the corals up in the reef after a week or so to their final place on the rock work. Edit: spelling mistake |
Posted By: LakeCityReefs
Date Posted: May 24 2016 at 6:06pm
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Yes I think they are used for photography mostly. I know in my situation it gave me an idea of what I was working with. I have the AI Prime and was worried about what intensity I was actually getting because I've read that some LED are not truly visible to our eye. I found that it's really the whites that increase the intensity on the LUX meter. With mostly blue tones and 20% whites I can get a reading of 25-30k LUX. Crank all bulbs to 100% and it will read over 50k. The author of the post I found suggests that you may need 50k LUX for SPS, I'm not too certain about this, in fact I'm a little scared of burning something if i crank my light up that high. ------------- Here we go again |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 24 2016 at 6:12pm
| Are corals not growing or looking as colorful as you'd like them to? |
Posted By: LakeCityReefs
Date Posted: May 25 2016 at 5:49am
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LPS are growing fine. I do wish I had some better colors and better growth tips on the SPS but I'm guessing it's because the tank is still young. ------------- Here we go again |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 25 2016 at 8:43am
| Can you post some screenshots of what your lighting program looks like? How long is your photoperiod? If you do, what do you feed the corals? |
Posted By: LakeCityReefs
Date Posted: May 25 2016 at 5:52pm
Here's my current setting that will be in place on June 2nd. It's runn8ng an acclimation mode working up to these settings. I was adding a half dose of Fuel twice a week and 1 tsp of Kent Coralvite once a week. I've recently stopped adding this week in order to try and remove some minor Cyano problems I'm having. Other than the trace elements/aminos I use BRS 2 part. I dose Alk in my top off water keeping it 8.5-9, and hand dose Ca. 20 ppm every 2 days. ------------- Here we go again |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 26 2016 at 9:08am
| I checked out your tank thread. Looks good! It's definitely a delicate process to find the right balance where everything comes together. I personally use a very intense light program, but a short photoperiod. 9 hours of total light, 7 hours of peak light. It took me a while to acclimate to it. I'd suggest either finding someone else's program that has been tried out for a while and or make slow adjustments yourself to the current schedule over the course of a couple of months. |
Posted By: Hogie
Date Posted: May 26 2016 at 11:41am
| run an AI nano, but I never get above 60% intensity (12"deep tank.) I just got an AI prime for a different tank. In my limited experience with it, it seems to have more spread that the AI nano and so when I set it for the same percentages, it wasn't enough light for the SPS. I just bumped it up to 70%. Are you running the blues at or near 100% like in the graph? I don't know if I'd go 100% personally. That's pretty strong (but my tank is only 12" deep...well, 11" with the sand.) |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 27 2016 at 8:37am
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I think that when discussing lighting, you should write down your goals with the reef and then write down your preference on color. You're the one that has to look at it everyday. Some people like really blue reefs and others like a more natural sunlight look. For me personally, I chose to have my corals "grow slower" by opting for a more blue reef. I like the aesthetics of a blue reef. I would rather have more colorful corals, though they might grow "slower", but that term is relative. It's up to the beholder. As you know, just make those changes slowly. When I made changes to my lighting program ages ago, I would give the reef 2 weeks to acclimate, even if that change was a 5% change on a single color. Edit: spelling correction |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: May 27 2016 at 10:31am
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I agree with everything above. ------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
|
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 27 2016 at 10:55am
| If someone in the club were to buy a PAR meter, would anyone be interested in renting it? |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: May 27 2016 at 1:19pm
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There is a long time member that has an older Apogee meter that I have borrowed in the past, but I don't know whether he would be willing to lend it out to someone he doesn't know. I would not be surprised to learn that he has been watching this thread. His is an older meter, the 200 series model, I believe. Apogee is in Logan. http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/aquarium-par-meters/" rel="nofollow - http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/aquarium-par-meters/ "The new SQ/MQ-500 Full Spectrum quantum sensors feature a new detector that provides accurate measurements under all light sources, including LEDs, right out of the box."  hmm: http://reefbuilders.com/2016/02/19/apogee-sq-mq-500-quantum-meter-par-sensor/" rel="nofollow - http://reefbuilders.com/2016/02/19/apogee-sq-mq-500-quantum-meter-par-sensor/ Aloha, Mark
------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
|
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 27 2016 at 1:47pm
I don't know who you are referring to and that doesn't really answer my question. But thanks anyway. |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: May 27 2016 at 3:28pm
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Ok, let me say it more succinctly. We don't know yet whether they make one that is any good for aquarium use, so why bother. ------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
|
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 27 2016 at 3:49pm
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Again, you haven't answered the question being asked. What characteristics and qualities are in a "good" PAR meter that meets "Mark's approval"? I am "bothering" with the idea of a PAR meter for other reef keepers to rent it if they find that they need one. They are expensive and maybe if I bought one, with enough interest, others could rent it and it would be available here locally. Edit: spelling correction |
Posted By: Reefer4Ever
Date Posted: May 27 2016 at 7:35pm
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I would certainly be interested in renting or paYing to have someone come over. I am not fond of the educated guessing when it comes to certain areas of reefing. I have been looking at the Seneye and at 200 it's not bad. Any thoughts. ------------- 90 gal reef w/refugium 24 gal softie tank 11 gal nano anemone tank 5 gal fresh water |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 27 2016 at 8:31pm
| I was looking at the Seneye for its other features. It seems really neat. I haven't read much on its PAR meter though. |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: May 31 2016 at 9:39am
| I might buy a PAR meter later today. Still interested in knowing if anyone might want to rent it to do PAR readings in their own system. |
Posted By: BillyC
Date Posted: May 31 2016 at 10:42am
| I would rent it depending on price |
Posted By: Trevor40
Date Posted: May 31 2016 at 11:46am
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I would also be interested in renting it. I would love to see how PAR is in the tank. I might even rent it a few times a year to see how the PAR drops on my T5's to know when to change the bulbs. ------------- Call or Text (801)834-3119 |
Posted By: relethg
Date Posted: June 03 2016 at 9:21am
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I would be interested and would be willing to donate $100 to the club to purchase a meter like the SQ 520 or MQ 500. Also suggest the AM-320 wand for the sensor. Would need the presidency to setup ROE for the use and/or barrowing of it. Anyone else? Glenn ------------- 210 G Filled 18 Mar 15 120 G Filled 11 Jun 16 |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 8:43am
| I have been shopping around and think I might have decided on a meter that has been tested and compared with other (very) high end meters. |
Posted By: relethg
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 9:06am
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And? ------------- 210 G Filled 18 Mar 15 120 G Filled 11 Jun 16 |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 9:12am
| And what? Haha |
Posted By: relethg
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 9:51am
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And what meter is it? I want access to a meter and will contribute to buy it for the club. ------------- 210 G Filled 18 Mar 15 120 G Filled 11 Jun 16 |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 11:49am
| I wasn't going to buy it for the club really. I was going to buy it myself and let people use it for a small fee, if there is interest. I am looking at the Seneye |
Posted By: relethg
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 12:02pm
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Gotcha, What has your research on the seneye found? ------------- 210 G Filled 18 Mar 15 120 G Filled 11 Jun 16 |
Posted By: Marcoss
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 12:11pm
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I'd be down to rent it if someone personally owns it. I think it would be better off on a rented basis based on its cost and fragility. ------------- RedSea Max S400 - 90G Rimless Frag Tanks x2 - 185 Lookdown Bin |
Posted By: BillyC
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 1:45pm
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I think for the average hobbyist, renting out their par meter is too risky (unless you're taking huge security deposits). Without the ability to charge the renter's credit card in the event of loss or damage, there is no liability. Most of us have dealt with flaky hobbyists and I can't imagine trying to get a par meter back from someone who's always cancelling or stops responding all together. Imagine somebody renting your $600 par meter and they then "lose" it. What then? I can tell you that for most people a civil lawsuit is not worth the hassle for $600, so you're likely just out of luck. I'm not trying to ruin dreams (like some do 😉) I would just hate to see a well-meaning hobbyist become a victim of bad renters. Renting out par meters might be better suited for a LFS that can charge someone's credit card in the event of a loss. On the other hand, providing something like a "PAR reading service," where the meter owner personally comes and provides a light analysis for a fee, might be a safer bet. I would pay for something like that. Also, the Apogee MQ-500 seems like a solid choice for its ability to also accurately read LED lighting. Just my 3 cents. |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 2:50pm
User reviews suggest it's easy to use and BRS compared it to another high end meter in their last 52 Weeks of Reefing video. They had a +/- 3 PAR using the Seneye. |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 2:51pm
Yeah, it would be a "me present" kind of situation. I've met a lot of nice people here, but even so, I'm not inclined to loan out stuff. |
Posted By: BillyC
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 3:31pm
| Nice, put me on the list. |
Posted By: Reefer4Ever
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 3:58pm
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I want on the list and will provide drinks and snacks on top of the fee. ------------- 90 gal reef w/refugium 24 gal softie tank 11 gal nano anemone tank 5 gal fresh water |
Posted By: BillyC
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 4:34pm
I'll provide drinks, snack, AND a nice backrub on top of the fee.
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Posted By: Marcoss
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 5:27pm
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There won't be any touching from me but I have beer. :) ------------- RedSea Max S400 - 90G Rimless Frag Tanks x2 - 185 Lookdown Bin |
Posted By: evan127
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 5:27pm
| Haha, sounds good! I'm going to possibly order one this week. |
Posted By: scfurse77
Date Posted: June 05 2016 at 10:16pm
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put me on the list. ------------- CADLIGHTS 42 Versa, 20 Gallon Sump, ATI Dimmable 8 Bulb T5 w/SbReef Lights Sbar, Bubble Muggus Skimmer and really mad wife :) |
Posted By: scfurse77
Date Posted: June 06 2016 at 9:26am
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Hogie and LakeCityReefs Here is what I've been using. This is the light schedule from Ecotech http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Ecotech_CoralLab_WP1.pdf I am using the A-B schedule. From what I've found this lighting schedule is based off of 18,000k setting. I know this is from Ecotech but the AI Leds are the exact same thing. Anyways i started it at 80% intensity and slowly took it up to 94%. To make a long story short either i went too fast on raising the intensity or 94% was just too high. And i've starting bleaching out some corals. So yesterday i significantly lowered the intensity after doing hours of research. I stayed with the same A/B light schedule but i've lowered my lighting down to 60% and will SLOWLY creep this up to a maximum of 80%. However i do plan on getting a second light and i'm not sure what i'll do at that point. I'll probably use the same schedule and put both lights at 50% intensity. ------------- CADLIGHTS 42 Versa, 20 Gallon Sump, ATI Dimmable 8 Bulb T5 w/SbReef Lights Sbar, Bubble Muggus Skimmer and really mad wife :) |
Posted By: Hogie
Date Posted: June 06 2016 at 10:13am
| Nice, you could use the acclimation function. |
Posted By: scfurse77
Date Posted: June 06 2016 at 11:31am
I've never tried using that function. How do you set something like that up? ------------- CADLIGHTS 42 Versa, 20 Gallon Sump, ATI Dimmable 8 Bulb T5 w/SbReef Lights Sbar, Bubble Muggus Skimmer and really mad wife :) |
Posted By: Hogie
Date Posted: June 16 2016 at 3:01pm
| If you go into the app, it's under the effect button and you can set the percentage of how strong you want the lights. It will then run your normal program, but as a lower percentage. You can also set the dates of how long you want it to be like that. |
Posted By: bur01014
Date Posted: August 29 2016 at 3:27pm
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Just noticed this - I have the apogee sq - 420 par reader - you have to have a laptop or computer nearby to plug the usb cable into and download the apogee software to see your readings, but I'd be happy to loan it out to folks for a small fee and some kind of deposit through PayPal that I would refund when it was returned to me. I would come by personally but just don't have the time. |
Posted By: Marcoss
Date Posted: August 29 2016 at 3:34pm
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I want in! I can do the deposit and pay a fee. I even have some nice corals you may be interested in. :) ------------- RedSea Max S400 - 90G Rimless Frag Tanks x2 - 185 Lookdown Bin |
Posted By: Reefer4Ever
Date Posted: August 29 2016 at 8:12pm
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Me too. Shoot me a PM or text 435890626 ------------- 90 gal reef w/refugium 24 gal softie tank 11 gal nano anemone tank 5 gal fresh water |
Posted By: bur01014
Date Posted: August 29 2016 at 9:50pm
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send me a pm guys and we can get things lined up - I have a couple pms already, but once someone gets their measurements, it can be moved on to another person fairly quickly - I live in Cottonwood Heights, but work up by the U, so can usually meet anytime around those two areas. |
Posted By: Marcoss
Date Posted: August 29 2016 at 10:23pm
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Hey man. PM sent. ------------- RedSea Max S400 - 90G Rimless Frag Tanks x2 - 185 Lookdown Bin |