WMAS Discussion Forum : My 90g Build Thread http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/ Copyright (c) 2006-2013 Web Wiz Forums - All Rights Reserved. Sat, 20 Jun 2026 01:43:26 +0000 Wed, 17 Feb 2010 22:00:54 +0000 http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss Web Wiz Forums 12.03 360 www.utahreefs.com/forum/RSS_post_feed.asp?TID=37395 <![CDATA[WMAS Discussion Forum]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/1by1.gif http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/ <![CDATA[My 90g Build Thread : I&#039;ve had a few changes, but...]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=343243&title=my-90g-build-thread#343243 Author: Luckedout
Subject: 37395
Posted: February 17 2010 at 10:00pm

I've had a few changes, but not a ton. I've added a bit of livestock. A couple of tangs, cleaner shrimp, diamond goby and a sixline wrasse. I'll probably look at adding a bit more life over the next couple of weeks. Everything has survived and thrived with almost no pickup in my skimmer.

Coral-wise I've added a LOT of frags. I haven't stuck to any one type of coral, I'm hoping for a good mix with variety and so I'm pretty much buying up what catches my fancy. Maybe as the corals start to grow out I'll become a little more picky on what I put in the tank and what I want to do look wise.

Future projects for this tank include an ATO. I want to redo my lights so they are closer to the water and get better growth. I also need to replace my protein skimmer pump. I decided to run skimmer-less tonight and tomorrow to see if it's making much of a difference.

Time for pics! These were all taken right after feeding so the water was stirred up a bit.

Candy cane eating some mysis. This started out as a half dead frag and is now starting to split and grow!

Keeping the sand white and burying my frags in the process. He inspired me to build a frag rack.

Frag rack made with a mag float, egg crate and plastic corner protectors.

Known as the "Old Man"

More Frags. I'll be adding a lot more rock to this area as things start to grow out.

New frags: Blasto, Armor of God, Start Polyps.

Rock Tower starting to show some coral growth.


Pretty much it for now. I haven't done much work on the tank itself. I've mostly just been trying to fill it up!! Too much space and I'm not patient waiting for corals to grow. I'll be changing out some of my bulbs as well to get more blue. It looks ok, but still just a little too bright for my taste. Let me know what you think and what I can do better!
]]> Wed, 17 Feb 2010 22:00:54 +0000 http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=343243&title=my-90g-build-thread#343243 <![CDATA[My 90g Build Thread : I think I will just manually fill...]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=336134&title=my-90g-build-thread#336134 Author: Luckedout
Subject: 37395
Posted: January 14 2010 at 12:51am

I think I will just manually fill the reservoir(tough to spell that word). If I have a large enough one then I can just do it once a week or so and it wouldn't be a big deal. Now if I was able to maintain water pressure in the line, would I really need that big of a pump?? Obviously if the line drained empty every time then I would, but just moving water through a line wouldn't need a lot of back pressure on a 1/4" line would it? I was also reading an article on a DIY that a guy put on a strong pump and it kept overfilling his sump.

I'm following Vadryn's post as well to see what he comes up with.
]]> Thu, 14 Jan 2010 00:51:42 +0000 http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=336134&title=my-90g-build-thread#336134 <![CDATA[My 90g Build Thread : OK for some reason I thought it...]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335930&title=my-90g-build-thread#335930 Author: bfessler
Subject: 37395
Posted: January 13 2010 at 2:09pm

OK for some reason I thought it was going down from an upper floor. In that case you will need a pump that is strong enough to push the water up through your ceiling. I would recommend a system that uses electronic float switches. Ideally you would use 3 float switches. Switch 1 goes in the sump at the level you want to maintain. Switch 2 goes slightly above switch 1 and will shut off the pump if switch 1 fails. Switch 3 goes in the bottom of the reservoir and shuts off the pump if the container runs dry. They are all connected in series through a simple relay the powers the pump. Switch 1 and 2 are set to open when the water level raises and switch 3 is set to open when water level drops. I got my DIY retrofit kit complete with the instructions switches, relay, transformer and project box from aquahub.com for about $40.00. The kit will power any pump you choose to use. There is also a 2 switch version but for just a little more its nice to have the redundency of 2 switches in the sump.]]> Wed, 13 Jan 2010 14:09:11 +0000 http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335930&title=my-90g-build-thread#335930 <![CDATA[My 90g Build Thread : The office just has a single floor....]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335867&title=my-90g-build-thread#335867 Author: Luckedout
Subject: 37395
Posted: January 13 2010 at 11:14am

The office just has a single floor. So it's all on the same level. My RO unit is in my utility closet and I was thinking about just leaving the container in there, then taking the tubing up and through the drop ceiling and dropping it down into the sump. So a small pump might be necessary.

If that doesn't work I could just find something smaller and stick it next to the sump.
]]> Wed, 13 Jan 2010 11:14:22 +0000 http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335867&title=my-90g-build-thread#335867 <![CDATA[My 90g Build Thread : You can keep the reservoir just...]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335847&title=my-90g-build-thread#335847 Author: bfessler
Subject: 37395
Posted: January 13 2010 at 10:53am

You can keep the reservoir just about anywhere. If there is room near the RO unit that would be ideal, especially if the tank is on a lower floor, just run 1/4" tubing down to the sump. Once the siphon is started you really don't need a pump just a float valve or a unit like the Level-loc. The siphon will keep water supplied to the float valve which will control the water level in the sump.
 
]]> Wed, 13 Jan 2010 10:53:37 +0000 http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335847&title=my-90g-build-thread#335847 <![CDATA[My 90g Build Thread : Yeah. I like the look of setting...]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335842&title=my-90g-build-thread#335842 Author: Luckedout
Subject: 37395
Posted: January 13 2010 at 10:40am

Yeah. I like the look of setting up a reservoir and a small pump. I'll have to shop around a bit to find a container that would fit in my stand.

I figured that I lose just a little under 2 gallons in a 24 hour period. so I would like to find something that could hold about 15-20 gallons if that's possible.  ]]> Wed, 13 Jan 2010 10:40:53 +0000 http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335842&title=my-90g-build-thread#335842 <![CDATA[My 90g Build Thread : Yes a regular drill bit will work...]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335788&title=my-90g-build-thread#335788 Author: bfessler
Subject: 37395
Posted: January 13 2010 at 5:44am

Yes a regular drill bit will work or you can use a spade bit. If using a spade bit you still want to drill at high speed.
 
I agree with Fishoutawater, especially for float valves placed directly in the sump. I use one on my RO Reservoir but there are no critters to bother the valve and I have an overflow plumbed into a floor drain. That $40 - $100 for a ATO with additional safety features is cheap compared to dealing with a flood.
 
If your RO is upstairs then the aqualifter and electronic float switches isn't an option. The water will siphon through the aqualifter even after it shuts off. You would be better off with a unit like the Level-Loc that has a float valve and a solenoid to stop flow and make sure to clean and test the system frequently as part of regular tank maintenance.
 
Before I put in my overflow to the floor drain I had a piece of tubing that stopped the float valve from shutting completely. It flooded the basement for most of a day before I found it. Fortunately the basement isn't finished and the floor drain limited the flood to about 1/4" over a 100 square foot area but it would be a real mess in a finished office.
 
If you're going to go with the float valve only, I would recommend you create a box around it with small holes for the water to escape but that will keep snails and such out and consider a better ATO when you can afford it. Floods aren't fun.
 
Oh and I wouldn't connect the tubing straight to the RO unit. Use a 5 to 10 gallon container and an Aqualifter to start the siphon. Then if you do have a flood it will be small, in fact the sump may contain most of the water if the float valve fails. Not only will this contain the flood it will also prevent your water from being overly  diluted.
]]> Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:44:23 +0000 http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335788&title=my-90g-build-thread#335788 <![CDATA[My 90g Build Thread : Burt, would a regular drill bit...]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335692&title=my-90g-build-thread#335692 Author: Luckedout
Subject: 37395
Posted: January 12 2010 at 9:22pm

Burt, would a regular drill bit work ok on thin acrylic if I go slow?]]> Tue, 12 Jan 2010 21:22:45 +0000 http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335692&title=my-90g-build-thread#335692 <![CDATA[My 90g Build Thread : I would also recommend using a...]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335666&title=my-90g-build-thread#335666 Author: fishoutawater
Subject: 37395
Posted: January 12 2010 at 8:44pm

I would also recommend using a container to limit the amount of water that can be topped off is something goes wrong, sooner or later something will. A friend of mine plumbed his ro line directly to his sump with a float valve. For about 3 years he had no problems. Then one night a snail or something got stuck in the valve and it flooded his sump and front room.]]> Tue, 12 Jan 2010 20:44:12 +0000 http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335666&title=my-90g-build-thread#335666 <![CDATA[My 90g Build Thread : I don&#039;t have any experience...]]> http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335653&title=my-90g-build-thread#335653 Author: bfessler
Subject: 37395
Posted: January 12 2010 at 8:00pm

I don't have any experience using a toilet flush valve as an ATO but I have had many of them leak in my home and at my business which causes water to slowly fill the tank till it runs down the overflow tube. I would assume the same situation would exist in a reef tank.
 
You could use a simple float valve for RO Storage container in your sump. Essentially it will do the same thing as a toilet valve but it is designed to work with a RO unit. Here is a link to BRS Float Valve. It would also be much easier to mount than a toilet valve. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/ro-di-accessories/adjustable-float-valve-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html
 
All you need to do is get a piece of acrylic and drill a hole in it to mount the valve then position it in your sump at the appropriate level, Connect the 1/4" tubing to it and your done.
]]> Tue, 12 Jan 2010 20:00:00 +0000 http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37395&PID=335653&title=my-90g-build-thread#335653