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Piscavore1 
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 Topic: ATO Pump Requirements
Posted: December 27 2010 at 11:03pm |
I have just finished the wiring and switches for an ATO. I am looking for the clollective wisdom in regards to the pump. I understand the need to match the "head" requirements of the pump and tank. Worst case for my build is 30 inches which, translates to a pump that runs at somewhere near 150 gph - isn't that a little too fast for replacement water when basically a slow flow will work for my 40 gallon tank (or any size tank really)?
Also, do the pumps not allow any reverse water flow when not enabled (powered off). It would seem to me that the water from the tank would try to equalize with the water in the fill bucket after the first top-off! I assume there is some equivalent component to the diode for water movement?
Tanks,
steve
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Reefboy4life
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Posted: December 27 2010 at 11:24pm |
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have you thought of doing a gravity fed auto top off with a float valve?
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90 gallon mixed reef
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Piscavore1
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 6:53am |
Hi Matt,
Yes I have. That was my first choice but others in the house for some reason don't want a jug or tank of water sitting above the main tank with a hose between them. Some aethestics gene that I am lacking.
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Lewy
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 7:21am |
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do you have a sump? I've seen some that have the ATO in the stand above the sump which does the same thing and helps with the aethestics by hiding it.
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40 gal w/ 20 sump
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 10:24am |
Yes, the pump only needs to be powerful enough to push water up and over the distance between the top surface level of the reservoir and the top surface of the tank water. I would assume that is anywhere between 0-20 inches. That's a very small pump. The best and only answer to your second question is to place the ATO tube outlet above the surface of the tank water. If the outlet was to be incorrectly submerged, when the pump turns off the resulting siphon would drain the tank down to the level of the end of the tube, possibly causing the reservoir to overflow and flood the floor. Anything else, like what is called a "backflow" valve, device or preventer in our watery world, would be unwise. I have never used backflow valves because they are prone to failure, especially with all the stuff that grows everywhere in saltwater systems.  BTW, Welcome to the WMAS Message Board. 
Edited by Mark Peterson - December 28 2010 at 10:33am
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laynframe
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 5:52pm |
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On my diy top off system, I used the eheim 300 i think. Its rated for 18" head at 80 gph and has a adjustable out put for your gph. I also put the dishcharge from the ro tank above the water level of the tank when power is off to it, thats because if power fails to your tank you get some water returning to your sump. And you dont want the sump to syphon into your ato water. Hope that helps you a little!
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bfessler
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 7:58pm |
Hi Steve and welcome.
I agree with Mark, simply make sure the delivery tube isn't submerged in the tank but drips water into the sump or display. I like to use an Aqualifter pump.
They're small quiet and pump water at a slow but reliable rate, best of all they're cheep. You can even use them as a dosing pump if needed. I use an aqualifter on my DIY ATO for a 120 gallon frag system and 28 gallon tank all plumbed together and it has no problem keeping up with the demand.
Edited by bfessler - December 28 2010 at 8:01pm
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Burt
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Jeremyw
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 8:44pm |
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burt how fast does it pump water? Would you say like 5 gallons every week?
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bfessler
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 8:50pm |
The Aqualifter pumps water at a rate of 3.5 Gallons per hour at 30" of head. It is more of a slow trickle. If you want to use it as a dosing pump with a timer or controller you can measure how much is dispensed in a minute then multiply by how many minutes it takes to dispense the amount you want to dose.
I have my ATO dispense directly into the sump. My float switches control the pump and it never runs for more than a minute at a time.
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Burt
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Jeremyw
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 8:55pm |
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hmmm ok . Thanks, oh one last question, where did you get the float switches?
Edited by disneymania - December 28 2010 at 8:56pm
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bfessler
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 9:06pm |
I got mine form http://www.aquahub.com/store/index.html and they are also available at http://www.autotopoff.com. You can get the float switches by themselves or as a kit with the relay and job box.
If you have a controller you can get them form Digital Aquatics as well and they will connect to the SL1, SL2 or SW5 modules or a switch port on an Apex controller.
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Burt
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Jeremyw
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 9:15pm |
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Thanks!
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Piscavore1
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Posted: December 28 2010 at 11:28pm |
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Thanks guys! That is just the kind of first-hand info I was looking for. It sounds like the aqua-lifter is what I need for a slow feed to the tank.
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Haley'sfish
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Posted: December 29 2010 at 12:28am |
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You can also get the float switches at grainger, but they are about $12.00.
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