Connecting Ozone to skimmer?

Yes, it can be connected to the venturi on the skimmer. It does not harm the plastic, it eats up rubber seals. You would need to check whether your model has O3 resistant seals and replace them when available. The T is just an airline T available at the LFS. Be very careful with the amount of O3. As you are probably aware, too much O3 can oxidize and kill everything in the tank.

That's right mark. In just under a week of operation, The tank does look noticably clearer. I am begining to worry about my Gigas clam gettign enough nurishment anymore. O well time will tell.

I used a simple airline tubing valve (used to regulate airflow rate for air pumps) to restrict the flow down to where I could not smell the o3 anymore. I also run it on a timer from 11am till 8pm. I'm pretty sure that the restricting valve is not ozone safe but I'll just chuck it and get a new one when it fails. As for a T you can go to home depot and get a bag full of those T's used for garden sprinkler system for really cheap. Replace them every few months if need be as I think that they are not o3 resistant.

One thing I noticed is that the skimmer started to pull more than the normal amount of skimmate right at the beginning but now it seems to be pulling less.

Jon, here is the valve I use

http://www.aquariumguys.com/aigava25.html

It has a dial to reduce/increase the air flow.

If the Enlay is really a 200 mg unit (I know they claim it, just don't know if it's true) then it's possible that it could be too much.  Ozone is a "poison" in high levels and a "medicine" at low.  It's gotta be better to keep a steady low dose going rather then dumping a lot for a short time doesn't it?

Perhaps i could ozinate a 5 gallon bucket of water and dump it in? What is the point of having it go through the skimmer? Why not just let it bubble in the sump? My sump is 100 gallons. Im not planning on trying to maintain a certain ORP so i think a controller is pointless. I'll just slowly increase the amount of time i leave the ozone on until the water clears up. Im of course assuming that the water will clear up before dangerous ozone levels are reached.

Perhaps i could ozinate a 5 gallon bucket of water and dump it in?

You might as well just add some chlorox the bucket.  Chlorox is cheaper.  Or hydrogen peroxide.  End results would be similar/same.  Ozone does not stay dissolved as ozone when dissolved in seawater.  Ozone will completely dissolve and "pass" it's reactivity on to other more stable molecules (and this happens very very quickly).  Most likely candidate in seawater is bromide which then forms bromine (which is a type of bleach).  http://www.lenntech.com/water-disinfection/disinfectants-bro mine.htm

To raise ORP you add an oxidizing agent.  It doesnt really matter what agent that is, could be regular chlorine bleach, hydrogen peroxide or ozone.  Just happens that ozone is the easiest to control so it's the agent of choice.

Im not planning on trying to maintain a certain ORP so i think a controller is pointless.

A controller does not try to control to a certain ORP.  All a controller does is shut off the ozone if the ORP gets to the setpoint of the controller.  So if you set your controller at 400 mV it will do nothing as long as the ORP stays below 400, but as soon as the probe sees 400 or greater it will shut off the power to the ozonator.

I'll just slowly increase the amount of time i leave the ozone on until the water clears up.

Might work, but a better solution is to add a smaller amount over a longer time frame, imo.  Here's a thought exercise...

Assume you have a tank that needs 1000 mg of ozone per day.  If you were using a traditional reef tank ozonator the output would be adjustable.  So you could set the output at 1000/24 = 42 mg/hr.  This will produce a plume 1 foot long of effluent water from the ozone reactor (skimmer most likely) with an ORP high enough to kill some organisms.  Past the 1 ft plume the water has mixed enough to lower the ORP to safe levels.  Now lets look at a unit like the enlay without adjustable output.  You'll be adding 200 mg/hr for 5 hrs to get the same ozonation level.  But the plume from the ozone reactor when adding 200 mg/hr will be much longer then 1 ft and may reach into your tank.

Im of course assuming that the water will clear up before dangerous ozone levels are reached.

See the above thought experiment.

Jon, Thanks for adding to my understanding.

How can we know how much O3 stays in the water and goes into the tank?

The plume? Is this where the O3 is?

And the end of the plume? Is that where the O3 has dissipated into the atmosphere?