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Moosetang
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Topic: Cyano.. Posted: January 02 2013 at 12:21pm |
Needing advice on controlling Cyano. Or a good thread on here that might help me out. Thanks guys!
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Pete Moss
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Posted: January 02 2013 at 1:11pm |
Everything you need to know about cyano and dealing with it can be found in THIS article. It's a wonderful article on a wonderful site by a member of our very own presidency. Good luck!
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Moosetang
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Posted: January 02 2013 at 4:59pm |
Thank you! Great article. This stuff sucks. Not sure in the safest direction to take.
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Pete Moss
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Posted: January 02 2013 at 11:57pm |
As a general rule of thumb I choose to use chemicals as a last resort. How long has your tank been up and running?
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phys
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Posted: January 03 2013 at 3:56am |
I've always dealt with it with water changes, vacuuming, low feeding, and proper temp.
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Moosetang
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Posted: January 03 2013 at 5:54am |
It's been running since October - 2011. Just over a year.
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ReefdUp
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Joined: March 20 2011
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Posted: January 03 2013 at 6:58am |
Aw, thanks John!
Moosetang, can you describe your setup and water parameters. As you can see from the photo in my blog, I've dealt with more than my fair share of it. :-)
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www.reefdup.com Diving since 2009, reefkeeping since 2007, & fishkeeping since 1987 200g, 75g, & 15g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water
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icenine
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Posted: January 03 2013 at 7:01am |
I've myself and known many reefers that have used chemi clean to get rid of cyano permanently. I recently had a bit of an outbreak after setting up my system again and it worked like the charm I had expected it to.
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ReefdUp
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Posted: January 04 2013 at 7:58am |
ChemiClean is an antibiotic (I think erythromycin) which works well, but it also kills beneficial bacteria. A lack of the beneficial bacteria can prevent the nitrification process from working correctly or as well as it should. Plus, the fuel source for the cyano is still there. If the source was high phosphates/nitrates/bad lighting/etc., the corals will still probably not look as good as they could if the fuel source was addressed in the first place.
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www.reefdup.com Diving since 2009, reefkeeping since 2007, & fishkeeping since 1987 200g, 75g, & 15g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water
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icenine
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Posted: January 04 2013 at 12:21pm |
ReefdUp wrote:
ChemiClean is an antibiotic (I think erythromycin) |
Sorry, but this is incorrect. You may find posts years back that assumed it was erythromycin, mostly because the manufacturer has been very protective of what it actually was. Its an oxidizer and not an antibiotic.
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Bryguy514
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Posted: January 04 2013 at 12:34pm |
Why would you put an antibiotic in your tank???
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Bountiful, UT 84010
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ReefdUp
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Posted: January 04 2013 at 12:57pm |
icenine wrote:
ReefdUp wrote:
ChemiClean is an antibiotic (I think erythromycin) |
Sorry, but this is incorrect. You may find posts years back that assumed it was erythromycin, mostly because the manufacturer has been very protective of what it actually was. Its an <span ="st">oxidizer and not an antibiotic</span>. <span ="st"> | My apologies as I was thinking of the other multitude of cyanobacteria removers that *are* erythromycin (typically a yellow powder vs Chemi-Clean which is white). Chemi-Clean advertises that it doesn't contain erythromycin succinate - doesn't mean it doesn't contain other forms in conjunction with other ingredients. Dr. Randy Holmes-Farley states, "If it is any form of flocculating organic polymer, then any claim about it oxidizing sludge fits in with the typical Boyd modus operandi: absolutely no basis in fact. It does fit the one bit of info on the MSDS: the mouse LD50. Few chemicals cna match >10 g/kg. Even salt is below that. Flocculation simply means bringing things together. A polymer would coat a particulate and bring them together with other like particulates that normally repelled each other or at least had no attraction for one another, and caused a bigger lump to form out of many little bits that would then settle out. One might make some sort of claim that an oxidizer (like permanganate or ozone) might cause flocculation of certain materials if added correctly, but those oxidizers would not be polymers, and would certainly not have an LD50 above 10 g/kg."
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www.reefdup.com Diving since 2009, reefkeeping since 2007, & fishkeeping since 1987 200g, 75g, & 15g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water
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Dan9554880
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Posted: January 04 2013 at 1:21pm |
I've use cynosolution and it work well within 24hrs is gone. And it has not harm anything as far I can tell
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210 Mixed Reef 20 Nuvo nano reef Learn your tank, not the hobby
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icenine
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Posted: January 04 2013 at 1:54pm |
ReefdUp wrote:
icenine wrote:
ReefdUp wrote:
ChemiClean is an antibiotic (I think erythromycin) |
Sorry, but this is incorrect. You may find posts years back that assumed it was erythromycin, mostly because the manufacturer has been very protective of what it actually was. Its an <span ="st">oxidizer and not an antibiotic</span>. <span ="st"> |
My apologies as I was thinking of the other multitude of cyanobacteria removers that *are* erythromycin (typically a yellow powder vs Chemi-Clean which is white). Chemi-Clean advertises that it doesn't contain erythromycin succinate - doesn't mean it doesn't contain other forms in conjunction with other ingredients.
Dr. Randy Holmes-Farley states,
"If it is any form of flocculating organic polymer, then any claim about it oxidizing sludge fits in with the typical Boyd modus operandi: absolutely no basis in fact.
It does fit the one bit of info on the MSDS: the mouse LD50. Few chemicals cna match >10 g/kg. Even salt is below that.
Flocculation simply means bringing things together. A polymer would coat a particulate and bring them together with other like particulates that normally repelled each other or at least had no attraction for one another, and caused a bigger lump to form out of many little bits that would then settle out.
One might make some sort of claim that an oxidizer (like permanganate or ozone) might cause flocculation of certain materials if added correctly, but those oxidizers would not be polymers, and would certainly not have an LD50 above 10 g/kg."
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 Yes, I remember those discussions. The lethal dose noted on the MSDS had nothing to do with it being an antibiotic or not. IIRC, those discussions were more in line with how much of a likely mark up Boyd's was taking on the stuff. Ya know, if you had used it in conjunction with what you did to clear up your problem, you likely would not have been looking at cyano for an entire year.
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Moosetang
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Posted: January 04 2013 at 2:02pm |
Whoa! A lot of things were said. Bottom line, what the best route to take? Lol!
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icenine
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Posted: January 04 2013 at 9:22pm |
Evaluate the issues ReefedUp has identified in the blog post: flow,nutrients and lighting. Red slime is usually a new tank issue or a very old tank one. If you have good flow, balanced bio load and sufficient lighting feel free to ask for my remaining supply of chemi clean and be prepared to use it as instructed (water change soon after dose). I bought a new container this past year and don't expect to need the remaining 90% of it. Once you have things set up properly it can act as the final hit to clear your system of cyano for good.
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