A lot of folks don't want to spend the money to set up auto top offs
with switches pumps and all the associated stuff. There are low
tech ways to drip kalk into your system like the "glug jug" or just
pushing a pin into a milk just full of kalk. Niether of these
systems was satisfactory for me because they weren't easily refillable
and reliable about the feed rate of the fluid into the system. I
designed my own gravity drip system with the goals of being, cheap,
reliable feed rate, easily refillable. Here is the write up about
it.
I wanted to be able to replace my evaporation with kalkwasser but don't
have room below my tank for an elaborate system. The only answer
is a custom setup to make the best use of space! I decided to
make mine out of acrylic (my first acrylic project, and no it isn't
hard to do) with a reliable drip system that is adjustable for speed.
Step 1: I decided that I could build a custom spaced "tank" out
of 3/8 acrylic that would hold about 2 1/2 gallons of kalkwasser.
This meant i would have to refill it about once a week or maybe twice
to replace evaporation. This fit in perfectly with my "goal" of
having to do aquarium maintainence only twice a week. So down to
home depot I went and found that 3/8 acrylic is the thickest they
have. I bought a sheet about 20x30 for about $9 bucks. so
far so good.
Step 2: I needed acrylic solvent to "weld" the acrylic together
to form the tank. Chris at Fish4U on highland just south of 39th
had a little bottle with more solvent than I'll ever use for about
$6. Perfect, everything I needed to make the "tank" obtained for
about $15!
Step 3: I decided how big i wanted the older to be by measuring
the available space "on" my sump under my tank. This way it could
sit on the edge of the tank maximizing space and still use gravity drip
to drip into the sump slowly. perfect for a kalk auto top off!
Step 4: With measurements in hand i used my table saw (you could
use a bandsaw, or a jigsaw if you are really steady with your hand) to
cut the pieces to size. mine is approx 12 inches long, 4 deep,
and 8 inches tall. I did a little experimenting and found that
you don't want more than 1/16 variation in the piece sizes, meaning you
need a reasonably straight cut, but if you do woodworking or something
similar you are used to tolerances MUCH tighter than this, so do not
worry.
Step 5: Glue all the acrylic together using the "pin"
method. Look this up to see how it works, its not very hard to
get a good bond, although i think it will take some practice to make
the bonds "look" good and not get solvent in places that will cloud the
acrylic. This is a great first project to work with acrylic
because you probably don't care about the end "look"
Step 6: Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the end of the "tank" about 1/2
and inch above the bottom. This allows the drip tube to draw from
just above the bottom so that any precipitation from the kalk doesn't
get sucked up and clog the tube. After a month now I've decided
to wash that junk out just to be safe. Super simple.
Step 7: Obtain an "iv drip" package from a medical supply or have
a VERY nice WMAS member borrow one from their hospital job. cut
the tubing (3/16ths) into a 3 foot long section and feed it halfway
through your hole. gob that bad boy up with silicon on either
side and make sure you get a very nice seal. let it dry overnight.
Step 8: cut the tubes to length and put the flow control
regulator on it, put it on top of your sump, pour some kalk from your
bigger kalk container (i use a 5 gallon water jug that i always shake
up when i add RO and let settle before i pour the clear kalk into the
gravity feed tank, adjust your drip rate with the adjuster and
you're set!
Tips: have the "end" of the drip tube actually under
the surface of your water the sump. if you don't eventually the
tip "crusts" over and you end up dripped slower and slower and
eventually stopping.
i found that even with 2 1/2 gallons and a 12 inch longest dimension
the 3/8 acrylic looks like its "bending" out. its not anywhere
near breaking but if i had to do it again, i would probably put a brace
across the top because i'm anal like that.
i left the top open on mine so i could easily just pour into it from a
5 gallon jug without having to move anything. to make it all a
little more sanitary if i had to do it again i would make the top of it
about 3/4 covered with just enough room for pouring in. this
would prevent sloshing around if i have to move it a little bit better.
a gravity feed system WILL feed slightly faster when the tank is full
than when the tank is almost empty. determine your drip rate when
the tank is full so that you never add kalk too fast (bad) but then
aren't adding quite fast enough by the time its empty. eventually
you'll find the happy medium that you never add too fast but don't add
to slowly and you'll never have to top off manually again!
hope this helps other people out, feel free to ask some questions i'd be more than willing to help out!