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TriggerHappy
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Topic: Some SPS RTN issues Posted: June 15 2007 at 1:15am |
I'm dealing with some RTN issues. 
I picked up three frags at the last meeting and had one RTN last night. A few weeks ago I bought eight frags two of them RTN'd within 48 hours, but the others are doing fine; in fact my birdsnest frag is "buding" like crazy. My question: Is this just the way it goes or are my parameters causing this? I know that I'm out of balance right now...my Ca is at 500 due to water changes with Oceanic, but is this causing my RTN issues?
Ca 500ppm
Alk 11 dKh PO4 .03 NO3 10
Mag 1500
Temp 78
ORP is 340-380
Salinity 1.024 pH 8.1-8.3 Lighting: 03 Actinic VHOs for 12.5 hrs 175w MH 10 hrs
I am skimming semi-wet with ozone and carbon. I test daily for Ca
and Alk with Salifert tests so I know when I can get my Ca reactor back
into service. I've been dosing Superbuffer almost daily to keep my Alk steady. I do use a
hydrometer...does someone have a refractometer in WJ that I can double check my salinity with?
Thanks,
Bill
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210 gallon Mixed Reef
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ct79
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 1:42am |
Sorry to hear that! But I know how you feel Bill! I had a couple of my acros that I bought recently RTN on me as well.  I see a few parameters that are off. Your Ca is high at 500. You want to keep it around 400-420. But I think over time that will get fixed by you keeping your alk high. I heard that Oceanic does have higher Ca so that might be the source. Your PO4 is a little high as well you want to be as close to 0 as possible. PO4 will prevent acros from growing. Your Mg is also high. you want to be in the 1300-1320 range. I think the Mg might be the reason why your acros are RTNing. maybe it's all those parameters that is the cause? I've had my Ca, Alk, and PO4 a little on the high side in the past and did not see any adverse effects. How often do you do water changes? How do you acclimate your new acros? Do you have a Phosban Reactor? If you don't have one of those, I think it's a must have for people that keep SPSs. It does wonders with PO4 and it can also be used with other media as well (Nitrate sponge, carbon).
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Midvale
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 11:40am |
Hey Chau thanks for the response. The Salifert test shows .03 as good (of course 0 is best). Yes, I have a Phosban Reactor, I'll turn the flow up a little higher.  I'm doing about 20 gal water changes once a month. I guess with the Ca and Mg being high, I'll have to ride it out?
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210 gallon Mixed Reef
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ct79
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 12:27pm |
Have you tested the parameters of your "water change" water? That might be the cause of the high parameters. If it is, you could try a different salt. But if the parameters are within the correct range then you could start doing a 20g water change once a week. That might help bring some of those parameters down.
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Midvale
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reefsearcher
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 5:46pm |
i had some problems with alkalinity for a while that caused RTN to completly destroy a beautiful bright orange didgitata. It sucks! good luck with your endeavors.
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People think I'm psychotic when I get excited about invertebrate encrusted live rock!
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 5:49pm |
ct79 wrote:
Have you tested the parameters of your "water change" water? That might be the cause of the high parameters. If it is, you could try a different salt. But if the parameters are within the correct range then you could start doing a 20g water change once a week. That might help bring some of those parameters down.
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Yes, I'm going to start with IO. Then I'll probably do a mixture of IO and Oceanic. I'm also concerned with my salinity being accurate. Thanks for your advice.
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ReefBones
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 5:54pm |
Hey Bill .. if you want to bring your swing arm down we can calibrate it to my Refractometer
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 6:15pm |
Steve, thanks for the offer...if I cannot find anyone closer, I'll take you up on that for sure!
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210 gallon Mixed Reef
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Mike Savage
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 7:04pm |
Bill,
You could calibrate to my refractometer. I'm at 90th & Redwood.
Mike
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 7:39pm |
Mike what does your Saturday schedule look like?
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Mike Savage
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 8:24pm |
Wide open so far. My number is on the membership list.
Mike
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: June 15 2007 at 8:42pm |
Thanks Mike...I'll hook up with you tomorrow.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: June 16 2007 at 10:32am |
Do you have good coralline agae growth in this tank? Have you noticed any patches of Coralline turning white?
When too much Ca is being added by too frequent and too large of water changes with Oceanic salt, adding Alkalinity to artificially keep dKH at 11 messes up the water chemistry.
I'd simply stop all water changes, watching the Alk and Ca, then adding one or both components as needed. SPS will grow just fine, even if alk is at 8 dKH. And Ca can be as low as 350 for short periods of time, but it's allowing the tank to find it's own balance that makes the difference.
And whatever you have done to bring Mg up that high - stop it. 
When you resume water changes, to use up the Oceanic, mix IO and Oceanic salts.
Also, I doubt it's a salinity issue, but it's good to calibrate the hydrometer. After that, keeping the Hydrometer clean by a freshwater or RO water rinse after each use will keep it accurate. If it becomes cloudy a vinegar soak will clean it just fine.
Do you have any reason to adjust the O3? Can you tell us more about how the O3 and controller have been behaving?
Edited by Mark Peterson - June 16 2007 at 10:49am
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: June 16 2007 at 12:18pm |
Mark Peterson wrote:
Do you have good coralline agae growth in this tank? Have you noticed any patches of Coralline turning white?
When too much Ca is being added by too frequent and too large of water changes with Oceanic salt, adding Alkalinity to artificially keep dKH at 11 messes up the water chemistry.
I'd simply stop all water changes, watching the Alk and Ca, then adding one or both components as needed. SPS will grow just fine, even if alk is at 8 dKH. And Ca can be as low as 350 for short periods of time, but it's allowing the tank to find it's own balance that makes the difference.
And whatever you have done to bring Mg up that high - stop it. 
When you resume water changes, to use up the Oceanic, mix IO and Oceanic salts.
Also, I doubt it's a salinity issue, but it's good to calibrate the hydrometer. After that, keeping the Hydrometer clean by a freshwater or RO water rinse after each use will keep it accurate. If it becomes cloudy a vinegar soak will clean it just fine.
Do you have any reason to adjust the O3? Can you tell us more about how the O3 and controller have been behaving? |
Thanks for the reply Mark. As far as coralline algea, yes it is going well. I do have a largespine urchin that munches it up rather quickly, so it is hard to tell, but I do think there are some patches that are getting a little white. As far as what has caused the he Ca and Mg...the ONLY thing I did was do some large water changes with Oceanic. I have to assume that my hydrometer is way off and that must have caused this issue. My reasoning is that if my salinity was way higher than I expected it would cause extremely elevated Ca and Mg levels with Oceanic, do you agree? I'm going to Mike's house today to get it calibrated and then I think I'll be purchasing a refractometer. With your advice, I'll stop doing water changes. You say to not artificially keep my dKH at 11, so if I'm reading your advice correctly I should allow it to drop to 8 before dosing? I'm certainly not questioning you but, I was under the impression that if you raised your dKH it would lower the Ca. As far is the O3, I'm not too sure I understand the question. I personally do not have any reason to adjust the O3, or do I?  The ORP probe is hooked up to my Aquacontroller and seems to be doing well. I have noticed that the ORP is much higher at night, which I cannot remember if that is normal or not but in the last day I'll tell you what it was: Highest point was 379 @ 6:30 am (this morning) and the lowest point was 361 at 1:30 pm yesterday. Thanks again for chiming in and please share any additional insight you have.
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: June 16 2007 at 2:11pm |
I believe the problem has been located. My salinity is way too high. Reading 1.030.
Thanks for coming over Mike!
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: June 16 2007 at 3:43pm |
Hey Mike or anyone else with salinity experience...I'm going to lower my salinity...how fast is too fast.
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Mike Savage
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Posted: June 16 2007 at 4:01pm |
I really don't know. Do you have auto top off? If so I would take out 2 gallons of salt water a day and let the auto top off dilute the water. This will lower the salinity about .0005/day acording to Scott's calculator on the GARF site. This will bring it back down into range in about a week.
Mike
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: June 16 2007 at 4:14pm |
Cool Mike thanks for the link!
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Mike Savage
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Posted: June 16 2007 at 5:30pm |
No problem. Thanks to Scott (GARFVolunteer) who created these useful calculators! 
Mike
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: June 16 2007 at 5:40pm |
Salinity is not solely responsible for the problem. 1.030 is not that bad when you consider the WMAS recommended range is 1.022 - 1.026. Water chemistry readings will not be significantly different. The change in salinity is only 0.5% and that's all the change you will see in chemistry readings.
Other parts of water chemistry is the other part of the equation. As I said before, the tank needs to be allowed to settle into it's own balance without adding anything for a while. You don't need to wait till dKH is 8 but do watch what happens week by week over the next month or so. My guess is that you may see it drop to 10 dKH within 2 weeks and by the end of a month the Ca may also be more in range and depending on demand, by then the Alkalinity will need some assistance.
Lowering salinity can be done safely, faster than raising salinity. It could be done in two steps, but I like Mikes idea. 
A refractometer is not necessary. Hydrometers are great and are accurate enough when used and cleaned properly. Cleaning and calibration are simple. Also, when you drop them you aren't out $75. 
Sometimes O3 can be the cause of problems. If suspect, reduce O3 output by half and watch the livestock. If no problems are noticed, leave it there! 
Edited by Mark Peterson - June 16 2007 at 5:44pm
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