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Crazy Tarzan
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Topic: Refugium pluming Posted: October 21 2003 at 12:48pm |
I am getting an itch to set up a single or double 10 gal refugium in my stand under my tank. However I'm not sure how I would pull water out of my 30 down underneath to the refugium. Do I use some type of overflow box? and how do I make sure that the refugium doesn't overflow (I do have a float switch I can use if needed)? Just one of these things that my poor little head can't figure out completly  . I'm open for all ideas so have at.
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jfinch
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Posted: October 21 2003 at 1:00pm |
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Yes you need an overflow of some sorts. It's all self regulating. The inlet weir of the overflow box sets the minimum tank level. This keep the whole tank from overflowing into the sump. The sump should be sized so that in the event of a power failure (pump stops) it can hold what water will continue to fall from the tank (down to the overflow inlet weir). The float switch is not needed (unless you want to use it to supply make-up water to the sump).
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Crazy Tarzan
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Posted: October 21 2003 at 1:25pm |
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Now can I do all this without having to drill holes in my tank? Or does the suction of the sump actually draw the water out and down in? I am just trying to figure out how to get water up and over the edge of the tank, down into the sump. Also what size of tubing coresponds to what amount of gph flow in the sump? I presume that I then pump the water back up to the tank to complete the cycle, is this with a power head or an actual pump?
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Suzy
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Posted: October 21 2003 at 2:21pm |
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I've got some leftover acrylic....You can see ours in action, if you want.....
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jfinch
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Posted: October 21 2003 at 2:25pm |
Since this is in the diy forum... You can make your own overflow box from acrylic. At the basic level you need a box that sits inside your tank and a box that sits outside your tank at the same elevation. Use a hose or pipe to create a syphon from the box in the tank to the box outside the tank. Put another weir, slightly lower in elevation, within the outside box for the water to flow over. On the other side of this weir is the outlet to the sump. From the sump you need to pump back into the tank. Use at least a 1" drain line from the overflow box to the sump. The tubing/pipe size does not determine how much flow. The return pump determines that. If this is all confusing to you, stop by one of the LFS and look at one of the commercial overflows or ask around, I'm sure someone near by is using one.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: October 21 2003 at 4:57pm |
I while back I wrote up some plans for a DIY Simple Overflow that I have used for years that is 99.9% assured not to cause a flood. It explains the principle behind how it works so you can even make your own design with materials you might already have on hand. Email me for a copy.
[email protected]
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ewaldsreef
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Posted: October 21 2003 at 9:44pm |
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Tarzan, If you are going to stop by I have 2 differant tanks with overflows. One I made myself. Both are sucessful and dont flood. Its very easy to do. Be happy to show you.
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Contact me for professional aquarium maintenance and localy grown coral frags. [URL=http://www.aquatitranquility.com][/URL]
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: October 22 2003 at 2:52pm |
Rstruhs asked me a question via PM and I hope he doesn't mind that I answer it here. My answer became rather expanded (surprise  )and could be information that some of you could use.
When looking at two 10 gal. tanks underneath, I suppose it's an available space issue, but IMO from a practical consideration, one 20 gal is better than two 10's. The setup with a larger tank reduces the risk of flooding. In either case, the sump(s) should be designed to operate at 1/2 to 3/4 capacity.
To connect water flow between two tanks situated on the same level, simply place a large PVC pipe (made into a "U" tube using PVC elbows) or length of large vinyl hose between them which acts as a siphon. This can be less expensive than drilling holes and using bulkheads which may leak if the connection between the two tanks is not solid. There are several tricks to starting the siphon/filling a large pipe with water and keeping it free of air, that I can share if you choose to go this route.
If equipment like a skimmer is the reason for a second sump, a skimmer can easily sit on the sand in a larger sump, or make a small half high baffle with acrylic and aquarium silicone to make a small sand-free area where the skimmer sits. This allows more LS in the sump/refugia and more room for nutrient eating algae!
Also, it's best to place the skimmer near the inflow from the main tank, not on the outflow from a refugia. The outflow is carrying "bugs" that you don't want captured by the skimmer.
When designing this kind of plumbing, I always ask myself two questions, and then I test it when it's built and installed:
1) What happens if the power goes out and then back on later, while I'm away?
2) What happens if something blocks the water route/how can I keep the water exit-way open? (a separate DIY cage around a screened exit is one answer)
Edited by Mark Peterson
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Crazy Tarzan
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Posted: November 07 2003 at 12:43pm |
Now to morph this thread a little.
I have a space that is 9" w x 20" t x 15" l , and am thinking of making an acrylic sump to fit in, and place my hob skimmer/filter on the back of that. I can change the length and maybe the height a little. Now, has anyone ever made a multi-level sump/refugium? and what compartments should I build in? I'm just trying to have this planned out and well thought out before I go do it.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: November 07 2003 at 7:49pm |
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For about 2 years I had a three level system with the 30 gal. refugia in the window (it grew acropora too), a semi fish only 20 gal. tank in the middle and an unlit sponge 10 gal. regugia on the bottom.
As long as the bottom tank level is kept low enough to collect the drainage without overflowing, the system works great.
I used my DIY overflow boxes for the two tanks. If you need those plans just email me. Click on my profile.
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Jwallent
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Posted: November 08 2003 at 8:55am |
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Hey crazy tarzan,
I just put together an acrylic refugium and have tons of the acrylic glue left over. Your welcome to it if you haven't bought any yet.
Jeremy
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Diverdan
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Posted: November 08 2003 at 11:10am |
This is the layout for a sump I made for my 75 gallon. I tried to mimic the eco-system style sump. You can change any of the dimensions to make it fit your system.
I had the pieces cut for me at a plastics place off 33rd south right by I-15.
Acrylic cost was about $60 and then the plmbing was more.
You could easily put the return in the sump in the chamber on the left.
The one mistake I made was designing it so my HOB skimmer was after the refugium. But it still worked really well. And now I am skimmerless, so it doesn't matter.
Rich
And it is obviousl not drawn to scale!

Edited by Diverdan
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75 Gallon Reef
15 Gallon Reef
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timlaw
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Posted: December 18 2003 at 6:20am |
Diverdan, (and others)
Almost all articles I read about tank setup recommend a protein skimmer. I am curious what made you decide to go skimmerless and how your system is doing without a skimmer?
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Suzy
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Posted: December 18 2003 at 6:54am |
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I don't use our skimmer much. It seems like every time I dump the
cup, it's green! Makes me think it's just skimmming out the
phytoplanton!
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Posted: December 18 2003 at 7:04am |
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Suzy do you use Rotifers or DTs?
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Suzy
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Posted: December 18 2003 at 4:01pm |
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Homegrown rotifers, phytoplanton and baby brine shrimp! I can't
afford DT'S......
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rstruhs
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Posted: December 18 2003 at 9:59pm |
Suzy and any others with experience. I would like to know what it takes and how can I grow my own rotifers and/or phytoplankton.
Thanks a bunch!
Rodney
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Suzy
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Posted: December 19 2003 at 8:13am |
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You're welcome to come check it out. We're in Riverton.....
Maybe I should start a thread.......
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: December 19 2003 at 8:47am |
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Suzy, please do.
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Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
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tom-
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Posted: December 19 2003 at 11:57am |
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I am interested also.
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