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UV - A, B, & C

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Marcus View Drop Down
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    Posted: January 06 2004 at 3:04pm
Recently I have been trying to figure out if a UV filter is really needed on double-ended metal halide bulbs. Double-ended MH bulbs do not have an outer glass shell that other socket MH bulbs do. Double-ended MH bulb manufacturers recommend getting a UV shielding fixture, but is it necessary? UV-A runs about 310-400 nm and since it is lower on the spectum, it travels deeper in the ocean. What's protecting the corals from this UV light? Does UV-B come into play and is that what we are protecting them from? I talked to a friend of mine who is in the glass business and he said that there is no such thing as UV shielded glass. Are we being subject to marketting here by the manufacturers? Any ideas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sarnack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 06 2004 at 3:39pm
http://www.reefland.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6294&page=4

Looks like the UVC is the big concern.. and B to some extent..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jfinch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 06 2004 at 5:25pm
And all glass other then quartz will filter harmful UV (B&C and most of the shorter wavelength A) as far as I know.

Edited by jfinch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aquarium Creations Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 06 2004 at 5:31pm
yup jon that is what i herd aswell...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ssilcox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 06 2004 at 6:04pm
So - if all glass will filter harmful UV - what is all the concern about with HQI bulbs? The arc chamber is glass. Wouldnt that therefore filter out the UV?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aquarium Creations Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 06 2004 at 7:55pm
That is my point ssilcox, i was trying to tell you that when i was showing you the bulbs but hey what do i know
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sarnack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 06 2004 at 8:37pm
I think the arc chamber may be quartz, not glass (silicon diozide) but this is just a guess...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ssilcox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 06 2004 at 10:23pm
I beleive you Eric! I just don't want my daughter to grow an extra limb
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aquarium Creations Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 06 2004 at 10:39pm
Just think if she did we could take her on the road and make some money we could have much nicer tanks, just give it some thought.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ssilcox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 06 2004 at 10:58pm

You know you make an excellent point... hmm... let me run it by my wife... I'm sure she wouldnt have a problem with it  

Not that you need a nicer tank...



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ssilcox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 07 2004 at 7:50am

From Sarnacks link above:

Only reference I have right now is original "Korallrevs akvariet" by Fosså & Nilsen, vol 1. On page 46 there is a table that references OSRAM databook and it clearly shows that HQI lamps produce all types of UV radiation (A-C).

HQI 250W (at 1000 lumens):
UV-C 29 mW/m2
UV-B 108 mW/m2
UV-A 900 mW/m2

And from the http://www.srrb.noaa.gov/UV/ website:

UV wavelengths, particularly

those associated with UVB, are able to efficiently break DNA bonds. While UV,

particularly UVA, can assist in repairing DNA damage, the primary effect of UV appears

to be damaging to both DNA and individual cells.

UV is known to have primarily deleterious effects

on individual species, including phytoplankton, zooplankton, amphibians, terrestrial

plants and fish.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jfinch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 07 2004 at 7:51am

I'm pretty sure Sarnack is right.  Quartz glass is used due to the very high temperature generated at the arc (regular glass would melt).  I think you're a bit crazy to operate double ended MH bulbs without a piece of glass between the bulb and your eyes/skin/ect.  Just my opinion.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Blundell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 07 2004 at 8:33am

Originally posted by Marcus Marcus wrote:

What's protecting the corals from this UV light?

This is a great question.  There are some very highly paid (we're talking millions here) people who are trying to find this out.  It is big big for cancer.  I don't have many answers but I do know some.  One thing is that the UV light actually does NOT penetrate as far as blue light.  Hard to believe but true.  The other item to note is that the water greatly absorbs (or disperses) the UV and is what protects the corals.  Also, corals near the surface slime coat themselves for protection.

But the big answer (again hard to believe) is that nothing is protecting the corals.  That is why they die.  Many coral experts think that corals would be growing at astonishing rates if there wasn't UV light.  It is hypothesised, and somewhat tested, that many corals are limited on how high up the water column they can grow simply because they are limited by UV. 

I think any liquid (if I remember correctly) will shield UV.  That is why a piece of glass is so important, it uses its liquid properties to shield UV and I'm convinced it works.

Adam

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Marcus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 07 2004 at 9:25am
Adam, so you are saying that an acro that is 4" below the surface of the water will NOT be affected by UV because the water will protect it?

Jon and Sarnack, so if I buy a piece of tempered 1/8" "safety glass", it'll shield the UV-B&C?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Blundell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 07 2004 at 9:36am

Originally posted by Marcus Marcus wrote:

Adam, so you are saying that an acro that is 4" below the surface of the water will NOT be affected by UV because the water will protect it?


Oh no, just the opposite, I think it will be highly affected, which is why they don't naturally grow (well some do) that close to the water surface.  I think UV naturally is a huge threat to corals.  However at something like 30 feet, yes that water will have protected it.  Where inbetween 4" and 30' do I think it makes the cut off.... I don't know.  I'll guess at 10 feet. 

Hmm, I wonder how much UV our halides give off, compared to natural sunlight, and for how many hours per day, and stuff like that.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crazy Tarzan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 07 2004 at 12:08pm

wrong thread

 



Edited by Crazy Tarzan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jfinch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 07 2004 at 12:20pm

Jon and Sarnack, so if I buy a piece of tempered 1/8" "safety glass", it'll shield the UV-B&C?

I think it would be sufficient.  The outer tube on a single socketed bulb is thinner then that and it supposedly works.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Marcus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 07 2004 at 8:15pm
So, do we all agree that "UV filtered glass" is just tempered glass?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sarnack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 08 2004 at 10:21am
Marcus - I could be wrong but here goes:
Tempered glass is a process of heating and cooling slowly to make it more resistant to shattering especially from rapid changes in temperature. Pyrex is a good example of this (the cooking glassware), and all labware glass. I dont think that tempering would have any effect on UV absorbtion.

UV Filtering glass has a metal film applied to it or laminated inside the glass.

But all glass has some UV filtering properties.

Edited by Sarnack
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jfinch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 08 2004 at 11:27am

Sarnak, you're right on some stuff and wrong on a few others.

Annealling is what you discribed as tempering.

Tempering glass is done by slowly heating the glass up to annealing temperatures, where the glass just begins to get soft.  Then rapidly cooling just the outside by blasting cool air across the surface.  Then allow the rest to slowly cool.  This process leaves the surface in compression and interior in tension.

Pyrex, corning-ware, corelle, vicor, ect are all regular old soda lime glass that have some of the soda atoms either displaced or replaced with other atoms such as boron (Pyrex), potassium (Corelle), titanium dioxide (corning ware) and others.

You might be thinking about safety glass with a film incorporated into the glass.

Enough glass talk...

Marcus, all glass, tempered or not, will filter out UV.  The thicker the glass the more it will filter.  The fact that single ended MH bulbs have 1/16" glass outer bulbs seems to indicated that they (the manufacturers) feel that is sufficient.  The only glass that I'm aware of that is transparent to UV is quartz.  That is why many UV sterilizers have a quartz sleeve for the UV bulb to fit into.  UV radiation is a serious thing, if it were me, I would try to confirm this info with a bulb manufacture such as Philips or Panasonic.

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