| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
Snoopy 
Guest
Joined: December 30 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 129
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: Houston we have liftoff! Woho! (New pics)
Posted: January 21 2006 at 10:41pm |
Ok after weeks of prep, a DIY stand and canopy and a bunch of $ later I finally have a filled tank. Here are some pics:       I still need to finish my canopy door... Right now only the actinics are on. I have the 1 actinic playing moon, and other comes on 30 mins before and after the metal halides. I run the halides 12 hours a day. The T5 palying moon is off at 11 PM, then back on at 7 AM. The Maxi jets are timed to be on together 15 mins, the 1 15 mins, the off and the other on 15 mins the off. Everything is on X10 timers are my server controls all of it. Serial temperature sensors are on the way and will also be monitored by the server. I also have a RO unit downstairs with 1/4" tube to top off. I have a 65 gal with 25 gal sump/refug divided into 3 chambers. Macro algae and calurfa is coming from Lyscer tomorrow :). Here is the complete list: Mag 9.5 with ball valve to slow it down 250 watt heater 2x250 W Aqua Media 10K Metal Halides 2x21 W T5 460Nm actinic 2 Maxi Jet 1200's 1 200 Gph rotating power head 5 X10 Appliance modules I have 18 lbs of live rock in there now, and 20 more lbs coming from Lyscer. I will be adding more later this week for around 65 - 75lbs of live rock. I will add some crabs and snails later this week. Refractoter says 1.026 and I will test all levels later this week. Please let me know what ya think. Also need some tips on what corals to add first and when it would be safe for some clown fish / damsels / gobis. Thanks!
Edited by Snoopy
|
65 gal reef 40 gal sump/refg
2x250w AB MH 14k Phoenix
2x21w T5 actinic
Layton, UT
|
 |
dkle
Guest
Joined: February 15 2004
Location: Taylorsville
Status: Offline
Points: 1784
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 21 2006 at 11:17pm |
Very nice! The setup is awesome. You're having some serious
light for a 65g tank. Make sure there is enough air movement to
avoid the heat. Now, with this kind of light, you JUST HAVE to
keep acros  .
If all the rocks are cycled and your amonia and nitrite are zero, then
you should be able to add fish and corals without problem. Go
slow with the fish though.
What kinds of corals are you thinking about adding?
I also saw that Shane (Ssilcox on the board) has ocellaris clowns for
sale for less than 10 bucks. This is what i call "perfect timing".
|
|
If you can't bedazzle them with your brilliance, baffle them with your bs!
Dinhkim Le - Procrastinator extra-ordinare
|
|
Snoopy
Guest
Joined: December 30 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 129
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 9:02am |
|
I was getting worried about heat. What do you mean about air movement? I have my 2 returns skimming the water. Last night the temp was at 81, ans this morning it is at 76. I don;t want to get a chiller if I don't have too. What can I do with air to keep my temp lower? My Maxijets have a air atachment thingy should I use that? Thanks!
|
65 gal reef 40 gal sump/refg
2x250w AB MH 14k Phoenix
2x21w T5 actinic
Layton, UT
|
|
Rocky
Guest
Joined: November 12 2005
Location: Russian Federation
Status: Offline
Points: 420
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 9:14am |
The best bet for minimizing heat would be to install a couple small fans with adjustable speeds to your DIY canopy. Perhaps something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Fan-5-Speed-Reef-Marine-Aquarium-Salt-Wa ter-Cooling_W0QQitemZ7737924884QQcategoryZ20755QQrdZ1QQcmdZV iewItem. You set one fan to blow air in and another to blow the air out. By having these fans adjustable it is easy to fine tune your tempurature and you could even set these up on a timer to only come on when your MHs are on. Thats a great set up by the way. 
Edited by Rocky709
|
|
Rocky Phillips
Hill AFB, Utah
Currently Tankless :(
|
|
Bob Kripfgans
Guest
Joined: November 13 2004
Location: Tooele, Ut.
Status: Offline
Points: 1084
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 9:27am |
Looks like a good burn..Houston. Very nice work, a couple of frag meetings one you will have one beautiful tank.
|
|
WMAS is da place!
Save the Banggai's!
Tooele,Ut.
|
|
Mark Peterson
Paid Member
Joined: June 19 2002
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 21436
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 3:11pm |
 Rocky709 wrote:
You set one fan to blow air in and another to blow the air out.
you could even set these up on a timer to only come on when your MHs are on. |
Comment on the first statement: FYI, that's a waste of a fan. Believe me when I say that having both fans blowing in is twice as good as the way you suggested. The double amount of hot air finds it's way out the back of the canopy. And blowing air into the canopy is better than blowing out, since salty, humid air corrods fans.
Actually I would recommend installing one fan first on the lower side of the back of the canopy (blowing in/down diagonally across the water is best), and if you find that isn't enough then install another in the same fashion, perhaps on the other side of the back. Evaporation is the most effective way to dissipate heat. This leads to more use of purified water.  That's part of keeping a reef aquarium.
Also, summer is the worst time for heat. If the heat goes above 82 sometimes even just for a day, SPS can die. If you have central air conditioning then you are set.
I agree completely with the second quoted statement. In fact, with an adapter plug like that orange one, the fan can be put on the same X10 as the MH's 
Because of the way your baffles are placed before the return pump, you are going to have pieces of Macroalgae always getting caught in the pump. It needs something to stop algae. A panel of eggcrate placed vertically on top of the first baffle leaning over to the second baffle could do the job.
The first baffle over next to the floss bag should be removed. It's just interfering with the flow of water out of the floss bag when it gets squeezed up between the tank and the baffle.
If I'm seeing it correctly(the water makes it hard to tell), The second baffle from the floss bag is also something I see problems with. I would remove it. I don't see auto top-off on this setup yet, so when evaporation causes the water level to fall below this baffle it will cause a waterfall that will make a mess of the sand below and possibly lots of unnecessary bubbles.
Okay here is a special tip. Lose the little rotating (Azoo?) powerhead. They are not worth the money, their output is pitiful and they eventually get stuck so they don't turn. You already have the MJ1200's set to be on and off. Further modification can make them into awesome alternating tidal or wave current generators. If you are intersted in how to do this, let me know. I have a working unit in my tank as does JFinch.
Sorry if all my critique causes y'all stress. You asked for comments and I was in the mood.
Edited by Mark Peterson
|
Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member 
|
|
tileman
Guest
Joined: November 05 2003
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 5368
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 3:37pm |
|
I don't see a skimmer, Do you plan on using a skimmer? If you plan on haveing sps ,I highly recommend a good skimmer. Euro-reef or ASM.
|
|
335G Reef
TOTM.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2015/2/aquarium
ReefKeepers TOTM Feb. 2012
http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index....k-of-the-month
&
|
|
Mark Peterson
Paid Member
Joined: June 19 2002
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 21436
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 3:44pm |
I believe those MH units were designed to be shifted by 90 degrees so the reflectors reflect a narrower beam front/back and shine more out the ends. I'm not exact on this but think the look of the lighting will be better that way, especially in the center top of the tank.
The metal screw hose clamps have to go. You don't want metal in the water or drops of condensation from corroding metal above. There are plastic clamps, but for the money you spent on X-10's and whatever you are using to control them (Neptune or computer) you would be better off discarding the vinyl tubing and using PVC pipe for the return, IMHO.
Sorry, I keep seeing things.
Edited by Mark Peterson
|
Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
|
|
tileman
Guest
Joined: November 05 2003
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 5368
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 3:55pm |
I believe Mark is talking about haveing your pendants turned this way for better light in your tank.
|
|
335G Reef
TOTM.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2015/2/aquarium
ReefKeepers TOTM Feb. 2012
http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index....k-of-the-month
&
|
|
Mark Peterson
Paid Member
Joined: June 19 2002
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 21436
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 3:58pm |
Yep that's what I'm talkin 'bout.
I don't see any room for auto topoff though it was mentioned. It's going to have to be float and relay controlled.
Edited by Mark Peterson
|
Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
|
|
Snoopy
Guest
Joined: December 30 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 129
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 4:23pm |
OK I had three fans on the back of the canopy already. They are silent 80mm computer case fans that I got real cheap. I had them blowing out, but changed them to blow in from the back as close to the water as I could. They are about 4" above the water. I was plannig also on putting 2 fans blowing right into my halides. The baffles will of course be hard to cahnge at this point  . I have central air  . We will see how it goes like this. Now when you guys say egg carton are you meaing those blue crate things of what? So do you think Wednesday would be good to start with a cleaning crew? How many of what should I get? Thanks!
|
65 gal reef 40 gal sump/refg
2x250w AB MH 14k Phoenix
2x21w T5 actinic
Layton, UT
|
|
Snoopy
Guest
Joined: December 30 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 129
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 4:29pm |
Hmmm never thought about turning my halides that way. I have a tube running downstairs to my RO unit. I just flip a vale right now to top off. Once I get tired of doing that I will probably do the auto top off thing. Just scared about flodding . The clamps are stainless steel from Fish 4 U. Think those are ok? Why change the return to PVC? I have a Jebo skimmer off ebay I bought that will fit perfect between the sump and the wall. I should be here tomorrow.
|
65 gal reef 40 gal sump/refg
2x250w AB MH 14k Phoenix
2x21w T5 actinic
Layton, UT
|
|
Mark Peterson
Paid Member
Joined: June 19 2002
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 21436
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 5:50pm |
Those baffles are not that hard to remove. If you cannot take stuff out to fix it now, how are you going to fix it when it's full of life and growing? Using a sharp thin blade cutter, slice the silicone on each side of the baffle and break the seal. It's not as hard as you may be thinking.
Your comment about never thinking about turning your MH lights "that way" reveals that you have been doing this without checking other setups. Have you used the free WMAS Membership list ( http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9658 ) to go see some nearby members and refine your system from what you learn from them?
I would say that 3 fans is more than enough! (Probably too many) Directing additional fans at the lights is useless compared to aiming a fan at the water to create cooling via evaporation.
Eggcrate light diffuser. You can find it at the hardware store.
Believe me, unless you are superhuman, the way you are planning to do your topoff you will have 100X more floods than by using one of the three options below.
Option :1 direct float valve or float actuated switch mounted in the sump in the area of the return pump.
Option 2: Using the RO line, overnight fill a 5-6 gal bucket in the bath tub and use it to manually top off every day or two.
Option 3: Come to the next WMAS meeting and discover the "Glug Jug"
I say again - lose the clamps. They will rust and contaminate your tank, then they will be impossible to remove and/or will break and allow a leak.
Vinyl tubing is okay for a while. Eventually it hardens, breaks and leaks. It's just that you have spent big money on remote control and gone cheap on plumbing. 
If it were me, I would ask here or call me before adding any other stuff. The skimmer fits in next to the return pump?
Edited by Mark Peterson
|
Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
|
|
Mark Peterson
Paid Member
Joined: June 19 2002
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 21436
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 6:06pm |
Regarding "cleaning crew"... there is nothing in there to clean up, yet.
You have evidently read my thread about setting up a tank using LS, LW, LR and Macroalgae. That's just the beginning and as I said there, is just a brief of information. http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244
**** The 65-75 lbs. of LR coming this week is coming from where?
You seem open to receiving advice here. That's good.
Edited by Mark Peterson
|
Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
|
|
Snoopy
Guest
Joined: December 30 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 129
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 6:30pm |
|
I have 20 lbs from Lyscer that I will put in tonight. I was going to get the reast of live rock from either The Aquarium or Aquatic Dreams. I setup with live sand I bought from kclaio and live water form Lyscer. Maroalgae will go in tonight as well. The live rock in there now is fomr MSM. The one rock had some zoo's on it i found after putting it in my tank. The skimmer was going to hob on the sump in the middle between the wall and the sump. Do they have the plastic clamps at Home Depot?
Can I just use a toilet float valve from Home Depot or do I need to get a better one?
Can I put the float in the return chamber of the sump so I have enough macro algae room?
Are my fans close enough to the water?
If I switch to PVC, how do I attach it to the pump and bulk head?
When should I test all my levels?
Sorry for all the questions. After I get the rock in I will post more pics tonight with the lights and fans changed. I have seen 3 setups, Tyler Sewart's, Imafishfreak, and Lyscer. I followed best I could the setup from your setup post. BTW the flex UV pond tubing that I bought is much more expensive than PVC. I guess I was hoping more expensive and no elbows would be better. Thanks again for your help.
|
65 gal reef 40 gal sump/refg
2x250w AB MH 14k Phoenix
2x21w T5 actinic
Layton, UT
|
|
Snoopy
Guest
Joined: December 30 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 129
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 6:35pm |
|
BTW Mark I have at least a five gallon bucket of Utah oolithic sand that is yours if you want it. I ended up with way to much and I have no use for it.
|
65 gal reef 40 gal sump/refg
2x250w AB MH 14k Phoenix
2x21w T5 actinic
Layton, UT
|
|
Snoopy
Guest
Joined: December 30 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 129
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 9:56pm |
|
|
65 gal reef 40 gal sump/refg
2x250w AB MH 14k Phoenix
2x21w T5 actinic
Layton, UT
|
|
kcliao
Guest
Joined: February 25 2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 139
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 10:34pm |
Your setup is very nice. Your setup should be ok now. Your stainless steel clamps should be fine as long as they are 316 stainless steel (marine grade). just wait and see. I think most LFS have plastic clamps. It should only take minutes to change them, if you discover they are rust and decide change them. I have not had a problem on my vinyl tubing for last 4 years. Your tank should be ready to fly. Just be "patient"! You will learn more later and discover what will be best for your own tank.
Thanks,
KC
|
|
I am from Pacific Ocean.
|
|
Mike Savage
Guest
Joined: July 15 2005
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 19173
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 22 2006 at 11:13pm |
It's coming along nicely. Thanks for sharing. I always learn something new reading about new set-ups. 
|
|
|
|
Kyle
Guest
Joined: July 06 2005
Status: Offline
Points: 297
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January 24 2006 at 6:14pm |
|
i just set up a new 65 i`ll have to snap some pics and post them up here
|
|
