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lskurys 
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 Topic: LED driver issues
Posted: June 06 2013 at 9:08am |
I just picked up some new lighting. It is a DIY set up with 8 drivers. I have having problems with 2 of the small strings, both of the strings are using a ELN-60-48D.
The first one has 9 red led's on it. I can set the volts to 27.9v but when I go to adjust the amps I can get to around 0.300 amps the it will start flashing amps from 0.02 to 1.4 and stops flashing when I get it new the end of the adjustment to the right and is about 1.1amps. With this driver if I try to turn it back down I will not hit a stop it just keeps going to left.
I am thinking that this driver needs to be replaced and it cannot get a warranty on it because this would be a user defect
Second driver this one I am just not sure what to do. It is also a string of 9 UV lights. With this one I can adjust volts to 27v but I read 0 amps. With my apex I will change the power level from 0 to 50% and see the correct change in the volts but still no amps. also from 50% to 100% volts change but still no amps? Everything seems to be working ok on the driver just no amps.
I am guessing that this driver will need to be replaced also but I am just not sure.
Thanks for any help you could give.
Shelby
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220g , large elite aquatics sump. 3 Radion Pro Gen 3 lights 3 Mp 40's
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Erikts
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 9:30am |
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What are you supplying the 10 volts with?
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34G solana
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lskurys
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 9:34am |
 Erikts wrote:
What are you supplying the 10 volts with? |
I am using my apex. I have also checked that it is putting out the correct voltage. 1 to 10v as called for.
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220g , large elite aquatics sump. 3 Radion Pro Gen 3 lights 3 Mp 40's
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Softplan
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 9:39am |
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I used a wall wart (like a cell phone charger) to supply power to the driver and used a volt meter to check it as I asjusted it. Maybe using the wall wart will make it easier.
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Erikts
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 9:45am |
Softplan wrote:
I used a wall wart (like a cell phone charger) to supply power to the driver and used a volt meter to check it as I asjusted it. Maybe using the wall wart will make it easier. |
+1 Wall wort takes the Apex out of the equation and makes it a little easier.
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34G solana
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lskurys
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 10:01am |
Erikts wrote:
Softplan wrote:
I used a wall wart (like a cell phone charger) to supply power to the driver and used a volt meter to check it as I asjusted it. Maybe using the wall wart will make it easier. |
+1
Wall wort takes the Apex out of the equation and makes it a little easier. |
I could take the apex out of it. I do have 6 other drivers working correctly off of the apex. I have also hooked up to the leads from the apex to sure that I am getting the 1-10v needed.
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220g , large elite aquatics sump. 3 Radion Pro Gen 3 lights 3 Mp 40's
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Softplan
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 10:03am |
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Could be a bad driver. Try the wall wart. If you still have problems send it back for a replacement.
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lskurys
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 10:10am |
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Can it be sent back? First the red driver's knob is broken and I got the fixture used. It is only about 8 months old just would not know were to send them.
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220g , large elite aquatics sump. 3 Radion Pro Gen 3 lights 3 Mp 40's
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lskurys
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 10:22am |
I do have a string of green LEDs that are working I can try that driver with both the red and UV. Good idea that will let me know it it is the driver or the string! 
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220g , large elite aquatics sump. 3 Radion Pro Gen 3 lights 3 Mp 40's
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Fatman
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 12:36pm |
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Looking at the data sheet for that one it shows the VDC the lowest voltage that it can be adjusted to as 43.2 VDC. Bet it's not the driver.
The UVs have a voltage of 3.2 -3.4 VDC which is about standard (not sure what you have for brand, these are from RapidLED), the reds have a 2.2-2.4 VDC so that may be a problem on the red driver. I assume the reds aren't mixed with another color (that requires a different voltage)? What is the LED brand?
I do have a dual pot text box that has a DC wall wart on it. You could use that to wire in the control channel to see if it works or not. But you still need to have the driver running at least 43.2 VDC or at least that's what the data sheet says. We could trouble shoot it if you want to bring it up here.
Fat
Edited by Fatman - June 06 2013 at 12:38pm
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lskurys
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 1:00pm |
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I am very new to Led's and there drivers. I was looking at the data sheet also and saw this LED OPERATION VOLTAGE Note.8 24 ~ 48V With this in Mind should I be using the ELN 60 27D ? Also there is a set of 9 Green led's that are run off of another ELN 60 48D they dim and ramp like they should. Should I check the red and UV strings on that driver to make sure and also see the setting on the driver that is working?
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220g , large elite aquatics sump. 3 Radion Pro Gen 3 lights 3 Mp 40's
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Erikts
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 1:02pm |
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What brand leds are the red and uv? Do you have the spec sheet for them?
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34G solana
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lskurys
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 1:10pm |
Erikts wrote:
What brand leds are the red and uv? Do you have the spec sheet for them? |
I am not sure off hand. I know the white and blue are Cree. I will not get home tonight until 10 pm or so because of tonight's meeting.
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Erikts
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 1:39pm |
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED%20Components%20and%20Modules/XLamp/Data%20and%20Binning/XLampXPE.pdf
Red = 2.3 v each x 9 LEDs = 20.7 Volts
Meanwell ELN-60-48D = 24 ~ 48V
You need to Run more LEDS in that series to achieve a minimum of 24 volts.
This is similar to the problem I had except I was running 1 LED to many. Fixed the LED qty and problem solved.
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34G solana
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lskurys
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 2:00pm |
I think you are right from looking at the cree chart Red and UV are both around 21v per string. So looks like I have 2 options to make sure that I do not burn up more drivers or LED's
1. add more LED's (3 of each) for a total of 12 on each string and I am thinking that I might still need to replace both drivers. The heat sinks do look pretty full but are running very cool.
2 Not sure on this but, what about replacing the ELN-60-48D with the ELN-60-27D?
I am still thinking that I should hook up my green string to the drivers that I am thinking are bad just to be sure that it is the driver and not the LED's or the wiring to them. Heck I could have pulled a wire half way out when I set them up at my house. Things happen when you move them.
Thanks again for the ideas so far. Also please let me know what the best plan would be.
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Fatman
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 2:48pm |
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Easiest solution is to stick some more leds on, but you need to match the voltage. You can buy more drivers, but they're 30 bucks each. LEDs are like 3 each. My guess is the drivers are fine. Any shorts on the LED circuits? Bad solder joints? Both would cause what you describe too.
Even if the internal pot turns left forever if you can adjust it it's not a problem. If you want to get new ones I'll give you 5 bucks for the old ones!
Fat
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Erikts
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 2:56pm |
The 60-27 has to much amperage for this application.
Your best bet is stick with the 60-48d and add a few leds.
You could even add additional colors.
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34G solana
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lskurys
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Posted: June 06 2013 at 2:56pm |
Fatman wrote:
Easiest solution is to stick some more leds on, but you need to match the voltage. You can buy more drivers, but they're 30 bucks each. LEDs are like 3 each. My guess is the drivers are fine. Any shorts on the LED circuits? Bad solder joints? Both would cause what you describe too.
Even if the internal pot turns left forever if you can adjust it it's not a problem. If you want to get new ones I'll give you 5 bucks for the old ones!
Fat
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Sounds like a smart man has picked up some good drivers and great prices before. lol I think I will try hooking up my green as they do match with the voltage. With the pot on the red driver. it does start to adjust but in what seems the middle of the pot's adjustment the amps seem to roll or flash...
Ugg I wish I was at home so that I could check and see what the problem is. I guess I will have to call in sick to work tomorrow so that I can play with my lights 
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220g , large elite aquatics sump. 3 Radion Pro Gen 3 lights 3 Mp 40's
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: June 07 2013 at 1:31pm |
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FYI on the second driver. If your voltage is showing correct and you have no current then you have a dead LED in the string or a bad solder connection. Voltage can be applied to any circuit and be measured but current requires a complete path from + to - in order for it to "flow" and cause the LED's to light. Think of it like a battery. A 9 volt battery will show 9 volts between the two contacts all day long, but it won't show any current until it is connected to a circuit.
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lskurys
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Posted: June 07 2013 at 3:21pm |
Krazie4Acans wrote:
FYI on the second driver. If your voltage is showing correct and you have no current then you have a dead LED in the string or a bad solder connection. Voltage can be applied to any circuit and be measured but current requires a complete path from + to - in order for it to "flow" and cause the LED's to light. Think of it like a battery. A 9 volt battery will show 9 volts between the two contacts all day long, but it won't show any current until it is connected to a circuit. |
Thank you for bring that up. I was so looking at the driver not so much for a short. So that will be one of the first things that I look at with the UV string. I am hoping to get started on them some time around 6:30 tonight. I hope that the problems are small and easy to fix. If not I am sure I will be asking for lots more help lol
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220g , large elite aquatics sump. 3 Radion Pro Gen 3 lights 3 Mp 40's
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