Maintaining water quality in nano

brandonp wrote: bio filtration, macro algae, and mini skimmers what's the best way to combat real frequent water changes in nano's? ...to combat nitrates in a stable tank? My 55 gal is doing good but small scale might be more of a challenge in a nano. Thanks all!

" The principles and methods described [here] apply to setting up any reef aquarium.... Setup involves the use of four living components: LS, LR, LW, and Macroalgae. Setting up a reef tank in this way can actually skip the common waiting period; the traditional "cycling" you may have heard or read about. Simply put, the "cycle" is the processing of pollution that comes from dead and dieing things decomposing in the tank. The principles of biology used in the steps below ... practically avoid the pollution cycle, cleaning pollution as quickly as it forms. [And why not make water clean and pure from the very start, instead of letting it go very foul first, before it finally starts to get better in the traditional cycling method.]
This considers the use of Natures Four Live Components ... LS, LR, Algae and LW *. These four live items compose [around] 90% of the filtration of a typical reef aquarium [especially small aquariums]. In effect, these are the most important components of aquarium filtration. The greater the quantity of these components used in set-up, the sooner the tank can be ready for coral and fish [and with these components a Nano Reef can function exactly like any larger aquarium and do it without a skimmer and with customarily simple 10% monthly water changes]. "

Okay, are you getting it? Is it making sense? To assist your understanding, let me show pics of three, no, four nano aquariums I have done. No skimmer, no sump, regular 10% monthly water changes.

Above, not my first Nano, but one of my best. Not just easy corals (SPS, LPS, Clam) and not just one or two fish (5 fish).

Below, in 2007 I picked up a 2 gal acrylic Betta tank at the DI. It became a micro-nano reef using a bubbler for circulation/aeration. I realize it's not looking very attractive in this pic. This is the only pic I can find. It was taken shortly after some messing around.

Below, two pics of a hang on the wall picture frame tank that is 4.5" deep. This tank, set up in 2010 and still running is ~14 gals, no sump, no skimmer, lots of fish, soft coral and heavy feeding 5 days/week. I see this tank just twice monthly and end up doing a 10-20% water change about every third visit.

Last but not least is this ~12 gal tank I called my Hawaiian Utah tank because the LR and sand was Utah Rock, Utah Oolitic Sand and LR / LS brought back from Hawaii. Set up in 2011, it ran at a friends house until just this month when, because of a lack of maintenance/lack of interest, it was taken down. Again, no skimmer, no sump, 5 fish, almost daily feeding.

Remember, Fish Pollute the water and Coral filter the water.

From what was said in the OP, these examples and information ought to change your understanding of how a reef tank can be set up and maintained. The natural processes of Natures Four Components do almost all the filtration. Macroalgae is harvested often to remove accumulated nutrients and to keep it from over-running coral and aquascaping. I've already mentioned 10% monthly water changes. Some of these tanks utilize a form of mechanical particulate filtration. The only other thing I do with the tanks above and with all my tanks is to run AC(activated carbon) to remove toxins and just the right amount of AA(activated alumina) to remove just the right amount of PO4 and trace Silicates.

Aloha,

Mark 

BTW, I buy AC and AA in bulk and am happy to share with other hobbyists at a price that is less than online pricing.

I've done a bit of editing above so it might be good to reread it.

There is no need for any bottles of stuff. You can practically ignore everything the stores want to sell you. Those products are essentially worthless compared to the biofiltration done by Natures Four Live Components.

AA is Activated Alumina.