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Lyscer 
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 Topic: Ozone vs. Uv Sterilizer
Posted: April 25 2006 at 12:39pm |
Is there an advantage to using one over the other?
I know that with uv sterilizers you just let the water pump through them and you have to replace the bulbs every so often.
With ozone I know that some people complain that it smells bad and that you will need an airdryer.
What are some of the advantages/disadvantages that you guys and gals have seen or experience? Thanks for you help on this.
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Lyscer
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Posted: April 25 2006 at 2:33pm |
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So here are my findings so far.
ozone - Will help make your water clear but should be used in conjunction with a skimmer to help produce more skimmate and should be used with carbon to help get rid of extra ozone that could damage your tanks inhabitants. It can also result in a foul smell unless carbon is placed over the air outlet of the skimmer.
UV - will help iliminat ich and other parasites, much safer way to kill these unwanted parasites than ozone.
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smatney
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Posted: April 25 2006 at 3:56pm |
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Do some searches on this site. I love ozone but it requires an ORP (oxygen reducing potential) probe to monitor. I put ozone on another system and bleached out corals. The water clarity is awesome, I always run carbon and don't smell a thing (an I have a great nose).
Edited by smatney - April 25 2006 at 3:57pm
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Susan Matney
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: April 25 2006 at 10:14pm |
I disagree. O3 does not require the use of a monitor, will not smell bad if used properly, is much more effective at controlling ich and is safe when used properly. It's not difficult to use it properly. 
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Adam Haycock
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Posted: April 25 2006 at 10:16pm |
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I agree with Mark. I use my ozone without a monitor but i cant say that ive noticed much of a result. I got much better results with carbon and hydrogen peroxide
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tileman
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Posted: April 25 2006 at 11:26pm |
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Mark, you say "is safe when used properly" Wouldn't that include using a controller and monitor? It's better to be safe then sorry.
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335G Reef
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tileman
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Posted: April 25 2006 at 11:28pm |
What we need, is to get Jon a O3 generator. He explains it much better than most of us. 
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335G Reef
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jfinch
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Posted: April 25 2006 at 11:40pm |
What we need, is to get Jon a O3 generator.
 right on!
I have zero practical experience with ozone and I don't think I would personally ever use it in my tank without an ORP monitor (but you never know, I've done sillier things before). But that's not to say that after getting used to how it affects my tank and how much is needed that it couldn't be done without a monitor. But I think that takes some experience.
Question for those with ozone: How often does your controller turn your generator off? How would you do that without a controller? How high do you think the ORP would climb if it didn't shut off?
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: April 25 2006 at 11:53pm |
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Using it safely means starting out with a very low O3 concentration and working upwards. Really, O3 is not a problem but it is still mysterious to most hobbyists. At one time it was mysterious to me too. I'm lucky to be working everyday with tanks that use it. These tanks have no special equipment other than a skimmer.
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reptoreef
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Posted: April 26 2006 at 12:01am |
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I use it and say that the use of a controller is more relavant to the size of the tank and the production ability of the generator... I like the "better safe than sorry" method and therefore use a controller. Jon, my generator usually kicks on just after feeding and maybe for a few minutes every hour or so.
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ewaldsreef
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Posted: April 26 2006 at 12:19am |
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I agree with Mark. After running ozone for over a year the only time the orp reading was high enough to turn of the ozone was when the probe needed to be cleaned. I think it is more of a set it and forget it type of thing. I think that orp probes are not reliable unless they are constantly cleaned.
I think my ozone has helped my tank but is not essential
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Contact me for professional aquarium maintenance and localy grown coral frags. [URL=http://www.aquatitranquility.com][/URL]
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tileman
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Posted: April 26 2006 at 12:28am |
I am the first to admit it , and most would agree, that I have too many fish in my 65g and it is packed with coral. But my water is crystal clear. I believe it is this way because of a very good skimmer and ozone, and frequent waterchanges. After a waterchange, and I clean the orp probe and dry my beads, my generator hits my setpoint of 395 in less than an hour. Once it shuts off , it continues to rise to about 405mv, then heads back down. Once it hits 392 , the generator kicks back on and it takes about 5 minutes to start the cycle again. But, as time passes, it takes longer and longer for it to hit the setpoint, which I believe is because of heavy feeding and fish polutants  , by day three, I have to redry my beads and clean my orp probe to even hit my set point. But once I do a waterchange again (once a week). I start the cycle all over again. SO, what I'm leading to is that my orp level is always changing and I'm glad that I have a controller and monitor in my ozone generator. I don't think I could ever get the orp up into dangerouse levels, but at least with a controller, I have peace of mind. Does this make sense?
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Mike Savage
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Posted: April 26 2006 at 6:25pm |
 tileman wrote:
Mark, you say "is safe when used properly" Wouldn't that include using a controller and monitor? It's better to be safe then sorry. |
I was thinking the same thing. I think that if you are successful running it without a controller and monitor is is most likely not helping your tank as much as it could.
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Corey Price
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Posted: April 26 2006 at 7:04pm |
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Look at the reefkeeping online mag on reefcentral. There is a series of articles on ozone. Good info.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: April 27 2006 at 12:11am |
Mike Savage wrote:
tileman wrote:
Mark, you say "is safe when used properly" Wouldn't that include using a controller and monitor? It's better to be safe then sorry. |
I was thinking the same thing. I think that if you are successful running it without a controller and monitor is is most likely not helping your tank as much as it could. |
You may think I'm crazy, but the condition of the coral and fish are the best monitors. I would start at 5% and keep turning up the O3 by 10% each week as the coral looked better and better.
Often I notice that hobbyists ask questions that seek complete and final answers to everything. Like setting the monitor to a certain set point or having pH arrive at a specific number or having just the right type and depth of sand. These kind of expectations really cause problems when that same hobbyist sees a beautiful tank that conforms to none of their supposed standards.
What the hobbyist thought was the best way to set up and run a tank flies out the window when they discover the full range of parameters that exist among awesome looking tanks.
Each tank is different and behaves differently even though it may be the same size, have the same lighting, contain the same type of rock, etc. I am having trouble explaining this. Is this making any sense?
Edited by Mark Peterson - May 03 2006 at 7:17pm
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Mike Savage
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Posted: April 27 2006 at 9:45am |
Mark,
I would argue that coral and fish do not react as fast as a monitor does and a monitor/controller would keep the orp at a given set point even if conditions/requirements changed without stressing the tank before this change was noticed.
Also this has nothing to do with weather or not I think you're crazy 
Mike
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reptoreef
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Posted: April 27 2006 at 10:13am |
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Not all generators used have controllers... in fact, most used, do not due to costs.
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dmanshep
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Posted: April 27 2006 at 11:11am |
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It's funny I have a controller but i'm on board with the idea of it's not needed.. I lock mine on with my controller and adjust as needed.. I usually have it set to 50% wich equates to 100mg in my system and then adjust based on fish signs, skimmate in skimmer, and water clearity. Right now it's on 75% all the time and the tank is rocking..
just my .02 (O3 Rulez)
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Lyscer
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Posted: April 27 2006 at 11:21am |
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Excellent. Thank you for all of the input so far.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 03 2006 at 7:15pm |
From the Red Sea Aquazone installation manual.
"If ozone is to be applied without the benefit of a redox controller, the dosage should be set at a low value to prevent too high a redox potential forming in the aquarium."
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