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gmc9sqm 
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 Topic: Styrofoam under aquarium?
Posted: April 20 2012 at 11:38pm |
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I just picked up my new 210 aqueon glass aquarium. Im wondeing what your opinion is on putting styrofoam under the edges of the aquarium. The stand it is going on is not 100% perfectly flat.
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Elite-Aquatics
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Posted: April 21 2012 at 12:35am |
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I woudn't put foam under a standard plastic trimmed tank. Do whatever you have to do to get your stand level that is a very important step to make sure your tank won't crack later on. What type of stand is it?
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arthuriv
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Posted: April 21 2012 at 3:17am |
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I have heard of people putting carpet padding under their tanks but not Styrofoam.
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ReefdUp
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Posted: April 21 2012 at 6:49am |
Styrofoam doesn't go under plastic-trimmed tanks as said above. I did it once, and the tank ended up settling more on one side (due to live rock), and I had to tear it all back down. If I had left it, it definitely would've cracked. If the stand isn't level, make it level. Use shims, or whatever you have to do (also said above). Keep in mind, if it's a wood stand, it may have some warpage. Once the weight of the tank is on it, it may straighten the stand out if it was built properly. If you do decide to go with styrofoam, use the high density stuff (pink or blue...forget which one), not the white ball-looking stuff.
Edited by Reef'd Up - April 21 2012 at 6:49am
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gmc9sqm
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Posted: April 21 2012 at 11:00am |
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Some people say using the high density foam is a must and anothers say no way. that's my dilemma. it's going on a wood stand that I built but I know over a 6 foot span there is a very slight variance.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: April 21 2012 at 11:46am |
Styrofoam and/or padding are good for Acrylic tanks and glass tanks without plastic frames but not for framed tanks. The plastic frame around the bottom is designed specifically for keeping the bottom glass suspended. Make sure the top outside edges of the stand are straight and level. If there is a slight variance, the variance MUST be that the center is no more than a few mm lower than the corners. It's the corners that must be level with each other so that it does not twist with the the weight of water. If the tank high centers it will crack sometime after filling. Maybe not today, maybe not this month, but it will crack eventually. You made a stand. That's good for an experienced hobbyist but risky for a new hobbyist. If you show us a pic of the stand we can verify whether it will work the way it is now. Best to be patient and go slow with this to avoid a disaster later.  The best material I have ever used, and I have built many dozens and maintained hundreds of aquariums, is the 3/4" thick Melamine board available at HD, Lowes and other hardware stores. It provides a flat strong smooth surface for the frame to rest on. 
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MattinIdaho
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Posted: April 21 2012 at 2:10pm |
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I used the closed foam stuff they use for insulation. I cut in strips the exact same size as the frame around the edge and for the braces on the bottom because I was worried it would settle and eventually the glass would be resting on the foam. The reason I did it was because there was a slight bow right in the middle of the stand. It looks like it has worked for me. I was shocked at how little it compressed. 180 gallon tank with 150 lbs of rock and 200 lbs of sand. Filled and running I would say it has compressed between 1/16 - 1/8". I researched for a long time before I did it and like you found lots of yes and lots of no. I feel good about doing it with mine. I'll post up if I have to rent a wet vac someday:)
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Adam Blundell
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Posted: April 21 2012 at 2:58pm |
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Dion Richins
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Posted: April 21 2012 at 3:37pm |
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you still have to have the stand even, even with a milimine board. otherwise it will high center the same way possibly making it worse.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: April 22 2012 at 9:29am |
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I agree with Matt and I have done that too. Thin foam strips under only the area that actually contacts the stand is a good way to even out the small imperfections.
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