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Closed Loop

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Jewnyer View Drop Down
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    Posted: November 15 2006 at 6:47pm
To the all knowing board.....here it goes.  I am not able to drill the back of my tank but I want to run a closed loop.  I want to run it mainly for the clean look and the versatility. 

If I were to do a closed loop like Melev used on his 29 gallon off of www.melevsreef.com, am I able to put the intake of the closed loop into the overflow on the inside of my tank?  I posed this question to someone once and was told that my overflow might not be able to meet the demand of my tank drain well as the closed loop. 

My question to the board is, if it is a closed loop, wouldn't I be turning over the same amount of water I am pulling out?  Wouldn't it balance itself?  Wouldn't the water level be the same in the overflow if I am putting the same amount of water back into the tank that I am taking out?  Let me know if this sounds confusing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eldiente Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2006 at 6:56pm
I thought of doing the same thing and had the same ideas. I have a dual return/overflow and so I was afraid it might mess up the flow and cause more noise, but I would think it wouldn't be a problem. the only problem i could think of was when I was doing maintanence to the sump and turned off the sump returns that it would affect my closed loop because there would still be water flowing into the overflow areas from the closed loop causing water to drain into the sump and causing a flood. I'll be interested to see what others say.
Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote acuramech Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2006 at 9:55pm
i think the only problem that you might see is.. the teeth cut in your overflow might not allow enough water flow.  on my 90 i had to open up the teeth on my overflow.  i am running a mag12 for my return and the tank would almost overflow.  after opening them up, no more problems. so this might be able to work for you.  as for the closed loop i just drilled the back of the tank. just a thought.... if the return pump stopped pumping for any reason and the water dropped in the overflow would this cause any problems for the closed loop pump or would it just maintain enough in the overflow to run the closed loop.  it would prob just depend on where the intake for the closed loop was positioned in the overflow.  sorry about the long post.  ideas..... let me know what ya decide to try.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbeck4x4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2006 at 10:25pm
you will need to have a large screen on the intake(think pond strainer) to keep fish and snails out, being a closed loop if the pump stopped where would the water go, it wont leak unless the pump sprung a leak, very rare.

Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jewnyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2006 at 10:38pm
acuramech:

if the return pump stopped pumping for any reason and the water dropped in the overflow would this cause any problems for the closed loop pump or would it just maintain enough in the overflow to run the closed loop.

That's what I was thinking, because you will just be circulating x amount of water throught the closed loop pipes, the water level should remain the same even if the return pump went out and the tank stopped draining.  I could be wrong.   I'm also only using a Mag 9 on a 72 bowfront so I think I should be fine and wouldn't need to open the teeth up.  But then again, I'm not sure, that's why I'm asking the board.

bbeck4x4:

you will need to have a large screen on the intake(think pond strainer) to keep fish and snails out, being a closed loop if the pump stopped where would the water go, it wont leak unless the pump sprung a leak, very rare.

You think strainers found on most hang on back overflows would do?  Or something like the strainer included in those all glass aquarium overflow kits?

Thanks for the response so far, keep em coming!
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Mark Peterson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 16 2006 at 12:31am
The intake screen and return outlet for a closed loop should both be in an area that can never go dry. The whole idea and efficiency of a closed loop is that it takes water directly from the tank and returns it directly to the tank. Think of a powerhead - it draws in and spits out from the same body of water. This eliminates the need to push water uphill as does a pump pulling water from a sump or overflow area and pushing it up to the tank. An overflow creates a new body of water so it is not the place to put the closed loop intake. If it were plumbed that way and the pump failed or the power went out the tank would back siphon all the water back through the output nozzle -> down into the sump, overflowing the sump right onto the floor.  And as has been stated, all the water flowing over through the teeth of an overflow is needed by the return pump. The whole idea of a closed loop is that it must be separate from the overflow.
 
An intake screen for a closed loop must be accesible. It tends to clog up and must be cleaned. There are some tips I can share, if you are interested, about keeping intake screens clear, requiring less cleaning. Smile


Edited by Mark Peterson - November 16 2006 at 12:34am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jewnyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 16 2006 at 2:09pm
Mark - Thank you, that makes sense to me.  I'll have to figure out a new way to go with that.  It's either figure out the closed loop or I can get two Seio 1100's on a Seio controller to provide my flow.  Thank you for your help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TNaisbitt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 16 2006 at 4:26pm
Mark's description of the flood is exactly what happened to me.  I had the same "great idea" to put the intake of my closed loop into my overflow.  It looked great but it caused two floods (I'm a slow learner I guess) before I finally yanked it out of there and just put it in the main tank.  It was actually siphoning water from the closed loop output back into the sump through the overflow.  A couple of backflow valves would have probably fixed it, but by that time I was down to the last straw.  Since it has been in the main tank I haven't had any problems.

I was on Reefcast (see link on Melev's site) when I heard of Melev talking about some perforated black pvc that he used on a closed loop that virtually disappeared (See Episode 9).  Here is a link to it:

http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/8559/cid/2079

Anyway, after a while my intake was covered in coraline so it blends in.  I also rearranged the rock in my tank to help hide it from view.

Hope this helps.  Good Luck!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbeck4x4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 16 2006 at 5:09pm
Mark is correct, you want the intake separate from the overflow, mine is in the bottom of my tank(I would have drilled it in the back but the hole was there already when I got the tank) sorry if I misunderstood your question,
here is a link to a picture of my old setup, I moved it to the back, and raised it higher(it sucked in sand occasionally in that spot, and with the rockwork sitting on it would have been tough to clean, it is 2" in diameter.

Brian
edited to add picture of new location in tank, raised it higher, and it is hard to see in that pic, but I can get my had around the back to remove it if it ever needed cleaning.


http://picasaweb.google.com/bbeck4x4/InletOfClosedLoop/photo#4998132320554975250


Edited by bbeck4x4 - November 16 2006 at 5:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GARFVolunteer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 16 2006 at 10:24pm
I was not able to convince the Planning and Zoning comittee (aka the lovely and gracious Monica) to allow me to drill my new tank so I did an external closed loop.
 
Here is the intake. It is made with 4" ABS pipe.  It is pulling around 5800 GPH
 
Here is the manifold:
Here is what it looks like in the tank:
 
Thanks,
 
Scott


Edited by GARFVolunteer - November 16 2006 at 10:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Broman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 17 2006 at 3:38pm
I am actually about to build an HOB closed loop and have already purchased the parts for it.  I am planning on using a 3/4" strainer connected to pvc which runs into a mag drive 9.5 pump.  The strainer will be about halfway down in my tank, hidden behind some rocks.  I am planning on using grey pvc so it stands out less.  Does anyone have any ideas/opinions about this or how it could be improved?
 
Mark - I would love to hear your tips about keeping the intake clear!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbeck4x4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 17 2006 at 5:17pm
larger or more will lessen the impact if one of them starts to get plugged up.

Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 18 2006 at 9:26am

3/4" is too small, except perhaps for a Nano. In fact, we had a demonstration conducted by JFinch at one club meeting which showed us that for most of our aquarium pump applications, the pumps do the best flow when the return piping is 1" diameter. It should be even larger for the intake side.

As for keeping the intake screen clean, the basic principle is, the larger the intake screen surface area the less suction at any one point in the intake grid. Low suction pressure means the small and large bits of algae and other stuff that floats around will not suck up to the inlet, stick there and clog it. Smile
 
I once made an inlet screen by sewing together a sheet of plastic canvas which is used for needlepoint. I used fishing line to sew it together into a tube and then sewed one end shut flat. It fit over a 2" diameter pipe. This plastic canvas may be what Scott used for the closed loop intake screen in the tank pictured above.
 
For example, the basic idea is used on the Rio Powerhead. You will notice that the large strainer box that fits over the pump intake rarely needs cleaning, and rarely clogs to the point of restricting flow.
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